Member postings for jon hill 3

Unfortunatly the manual doesn't describe the specification of the collets.

Any ideas?

Yes FF400 is now discontinued, I think it was meant to pair with the PD400 lathe or with additional table like mine.

Can anybody identify the type of collets that the proxxon ff400 milling machine takes?

I have a funny feeling that they are a not standard spec which is frustrating as proxxon ony do a limited range.

I have tried a few aftermarket supply companies without much luck.

Jon

Hi Barrie

Part no for atas motor J22RX439, pm me if you want the technical data sheet I have it on my hd.

In answer to Emgees question the current motor outputs 2850rpm without reduction and 180-2500 with pullies, so I would at least like to match that perhaps go beyond for really small drills and cutters.

Can anyone explain frame rate on 3 phase motors? I am chewing through the technical jargon on motors and my understanding is getting better, but I still have large gaps in my knowledge.

One other consideration in selecting my replacement motor is working temperature. My workshop is in a conservatory so typically +30 degrees in summer is not unusual.

Would I need to choose a motor with integrated temperature sensor to warn or shut down if the coils get too hot? Or failing that rig up a thermister sensor?

Following Pauls post I did a bit of homework and I found that Proxxon have over-egged the power rating on the motor it is not 400w only 180w!!!

Before anyone checks I have my facts right I checked with Atas the motor manufacturer.

No wonder the motor gets hot and has a short duty cycle, it seems as other people have said that Proxxon are overpriced and under engineered!

That said compared to the Manix mini 140, which I think this was inspired by, it is a bit more beefed up in terms of parts. Which brings me round to my motivation to upgrade the motor.

I was thinking hyperthetically I could put 550w 3phase motor. The only problem I can think of is the 3 phase motor I found would be 6kg instead of the existing 4kg 1 phase. Would this be a problem either in extra weight or torsional stresses?

Thanks Paul

I must admit I didn't know whether variable dc was any good so it is great to here other peoples experience, I have heard of people using salvaged treadmill motors to power their machinery.

Regarding the VFD in my limited experience it worked out well with the speed 10, previously it had a bog standard single phase ac motor. This would get extremly as hot it was used to make nylon insulators with a lot of stop and start leading to motor burn out. I appreciate you can use the v belt tensioner as a clutch but prefered staying safe.

The lathe can now be stopped and started as much as I want plus the biggest bonus is I don't need to muck about with belt changes and I can experiment with different speeds on the fly! Also the vfd motor on the lathe runs a lot smoother which imho produces a better finish.

Im glad to know that vfd can be done on a budget the speed 10 had a newton tesla unit fitted which was quite expensive.

Interesting points, firstly I am fairly new to using 4 jaw independent chucks. I have don a fare bit more on my 4" PB self centering chuck, which I think is the grip tru version. As most will appreciate the jaws of the former are more robust being larger and give me confidence they can grip much larger work.

The PB 4 jaw 4" PB chuck is the light duty version. the jaws in there current state rock back and forth and side to side! I don't think the scroll is seriously damaged so I think replacement jaws could be ordered.

However I am looking to hold the same same scale of work that I can with the 3 jaw, plus odd shaped stuff eg rectangular. I suspect that the light duty 4 jaw has been used beyond its normal load capacity leading to slackness in the jaws.

Regarding the centre height as some more experienced users pointed out it is not 4.5" as I mentioned but 3.25", rooky mistake.

I am still interested if I could use a larger 4 jaw any ideas?

Thanks Roger,

I thought there might be an off the shelf solution, I will investigate further!

Incidently could I fit a larger diameter chuck eg 5" as the centre hight is 4.5"?

Thanks Graham,

I will have a good look on the mill for the clutch mechanism.

Also thank you Michael for the manual link.

All I need to figure out now is whether to go for vfd 3phase or dc variable voltage? The later could be cheaper and simpler electronically.

I greased up the primary pulley when I think it should take oil, is it a problem or can I get away with it?

I am sure this topic has been covered before, however I will ask it.. Has anyone added a motor to the feed screw on an old manual lathe?

I have a speed 10 and am too lazy to fiddle about with change wheels, unless I am looking to cut some screws. Hence a variable speed motor setup would be very handy.

I currently have a 4" Pratt Bernard independant chuck that its jaws are looking worn out, either that or the sloop in the jaws suggest it is a chinese fake.

Any suggestions for a good quality replacement, perhaps with bigger jaws as the current one isnt up to holding very much?

Yes machine is the same as posted pic by jason, not a great amount of power only 400w. However it is a lot bigger than a mini mill so I would expect it to to do a bit more than 00 gauge.

The travel on the table is 200mm X 100mm Y 100mm Z or there abouts.

I have yet to put it to any serious tests, I tried milling some mild steel with some cheap hss router bits. It got very hot!

As an aside the dial on the quill to the left doesnt seem to do anything and its not documented in the manual any ideas?

Thanks I will do that.

I think I will run the lathe up at moderate speed without load and see if the rear bearing throws off the excess grease, perhaps do this a few times if it gets hot.

Personally I dont wish to take the mandril out at this stage, I will wait until the v belt needs replacing.

By the way are there any re-joinable v belts and would anyone recommend them?

myford speed 10, sorry should have said.

Having experienced the motor get very hot on my FF400 which I think is a common problem in all but very light us, I wondered if anyone has any suggestions to a suitable motor upgrade?

Having experienced the difference between single phase and 3 phase vfd this was my first thought. However I am not sure a suitable motor exists eg size, power & price so I was thinking of variable dc and perhaps a used treadmill motor.

What are other peoples opinions and suggestions?

I am sure I am not the first in being anxious and possibly paranoid in worrying over maintenance issues on my newly acquired lathe...

Anyway adding to my worries that I didn't know when the bearings were last greased (or which ones should only be oiled), I discovered that the rear headstock mandril bearing was getting hot to touch. The front headstock bearing was cool.

Is it possible that I have over greased? If so what can I do about it?