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Member postings for Neil Lickfold 1

Here is a list of all the postings Neil Lickfold 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Indexable tool insert replacements
27/02/2021 04:54:39

I buy the commercial brands mostly. The country they are made in is not relevant actually. It is the materials used and how they are produced. I have found that the better ones, not only last longer, but on machines like a Myford S7, I can cut a huge range of materials and hardness from one insert or insert type. Kyocera , Mitsubishi , and Summitomo, are my main 1st choices in that order. This website for NZ people is I think the best place for Kyocera inserts and some other's that he gets in stock. Will also sell a single insert as well. As an example, This insert https://www.carbidenz.co.nz/ccgt060202mp-ck-stainless-and-steel.html I use for cutting back bearing outer races, making Ti parts, Brass, copper, Al( 2011, 2024, 7075) , variuos steel grades as well . Softer grades of AL can build up, so I use the AL specific insert for 6061 and for commercial extrusion alloy. The other all rounder insert is this one that he calls a wonder insert, Although not on your holder list, is a very eccanomical all rounder available in lots of nose radi. https://www.carbidenz.co.nz/tngg160402r-s-pr1125-wonder-insert.html

I find that using what industry often use in their standard sizes, and geometry types, will give you the best selection for the best prices. I very rarely use any of the general industry turning inserts, as they often tend to need too many rpm and quite a lot of hp to make them work well. I don't run my lathe any faster than the top speed of the low range from the motor pulley to the clutch. So in the 700 rpm is around the max I run for anything. The new to NZ users, Blaser CSF35 cutting oil will extend hard turning insert life by a factor of 10. From tests done at work on hard milling and my own turning experience at home. It will also give improved surface finishes on all materials I have cut so far, and is a really good no smell tapping oil too.

The inserts are not cheap, but do last very well. The 2 I have shown are the most used for most things I make. The ccgt I have in both the 06 and in the 09 sizes. Evan sells the holders in 12mm shank for the ccgt09 inserts and for the tnmg16 inserts. The ccgt 06 inserts, has an 8mm and 10mm shank option. I got the 10mm shank. I have his series of bore bars for the ccgt 06 inserts and ccgt09 inserts as well.

Neil

Thread: Is there any tips for sawing aluminium
06/09/2020 01:13:31

A fine cross cut blade on a sturdy drop saw will work to cut Al section. We use at work, a vegetable oil that is lightly misted onto the blade from both sides. When the blade dulls, the metal will feel warm to touch. You can use a special AL cutting blade, but a regular blade will work as long as you are careful. We clamp both sides of the piece in the dropsaw. At home I cut al extrusions on a battery powered dropsaw. I just use the fine cross cut carbide blade. It is only a 2mm kerf. I use a piece of wood against the back rail for each cut, to support the extrusion and it makes a very clean exit cut. I use a piece wood also on the front and clamp when possible clamp it on both sides. If I am only cutting a small piece off one end, with my saw, I clamp the assembly from the LH side, as the motor is on the RH side. At home I have the vaccum on the back of the saw, and have made some cardboard sides to help capture the chips etc. I use a squirt of wd40 or crc from a spray can onto the front of the blade as it is cutting. With the whole assembly clamped in place, I only need one hand to control the saw.

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