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Member postings for Dibnah

Here is a list of all the postings Dibnah has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Attempting To Make My (new to me) Zyto Beautiful
23/07/2020 21:15:02

I used pallet banding for a flat belt. It hasn't really had a load test as in cutting chips but it has held and spun under tension with no slip or sign of parting company up to now. It's that uncontrollable stuff you get around heavy parcels etc too. I think it is polypropylene maybe ? I have some on a drum so thought I would experiment with it.

Thread: Noob
23/07/2020 21:06:58
Posted by HOWARDT on 23/07/2020 09:43:11:

Dibnah, he may have said it in a jokey way that makes you think of grinding off bad weld, but he could be referring to weld prep on the base metals. What sounds as a joke to a novice can have deeper meaning to the pro.

yesYes it was very subtle and only with experience some time later I could revisit his words with another meaning.

22/07/2020 22:19:26
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 22/07/2020 15:26:08:

Welcome to the forum, I think welding is one of the truly trickiest skills in the workshop.

Neil

Thanks Neil, there appears to be a wealth of experience here yes. Welding like most things ....plenty of practice.

I remember as a young lad getting a job as a welders mate, in the college holidays. It was on a gas plant near Barrow-In Furness. Anyway I asked this old pipe welder "What makes a good welder?" he replied "Having a good grinder"! laugh

Thread: Attempting To Make My (new to me) Zyto Beautiful
22/07/2020 22:06:24

1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpgimg_20200722_200856.jpg

Managed to tack the motor & countershaft mount together this evening.

Motor and C.S. bolted to angle iron which uses a piece of box section as a guide, the angle has couple of keepers snug on the rear and raises and lowers for tension by that stud on the top of the mount, through a captive nut. The box section is bolted to a piece of slotted angle shown in earlier pics. Haven't got any belts on but spun the motor up and as yet no out of control vibration. I am trying an idea I had for a flat belt and will reveal shortly what it is, just glued it up and will give it a whirl tomorrow hopefully. Success or failure I will report here.smiley This stuff is so cheap if it is ok I don't mind cutting it off to strip everything down for final weld and paint.

Have edited out backgound junk in the hope it easier to see.

Edited By Dibnah on 22/07/2020 22:07:56

Edited By Dibnah on 22/07/2020 22:09:15

Edited By Dibnah on 22/07/2020 22:11:21

19/07/2020 17:00:27
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 19/07/2020 10:13:37:

Posted by Dibnah on 18/07/2020 21:09:32:

...

2.jpg@SillyOldDuffer. Re: my last reply to you.....

"do you think it would be an issue to run 20/40 thou off the shoulder of that gear ? Just to give a tad more clearance."

My thinking is a miss is as good as a mile but I don't know if that applies to drive belts ? I believe the Poly V belt is 3.5mm thick. should be approx 0.8mm of clearance. A touch off the shoulder would improve that a tad but I really don't know how snug these belts get and what the tolerances are when they are in tension and whizzing round at speed.

The answer is I don't know - I've no experience of how far belts come out but see Perko7's encouraging comment about flat belts. I'd expect V belts to be less inclined to flap but flap may be more a matter of adjustment - loose belts flap much more than tight ones. Important not to over-tension belts though because it puts a lot of side strain on the bearings. Rule of thumb, about 10mm / 1/2" stretch when pulled with a finger in the middle of the longest span. From your drawing, the gear shoulder is close to the lower pulley, where the belt is pulled close anyway.

I wouldn't expect skimming a little metal off a gear shoulder to do any harm, but it might not help much. It's uncomfortably close whatever. Maybe try it to see if the belt rubs? A miss really is as good as a mile.

Otherwise, is there room for a jockey wheel? Something like:

jockey.jpg

As well as guiding the belt, jockeys are often a convenient way of adjusting tension. Rather than moving the motor, adjust the jockey.

Dave

Great suggestion Dave the jockey wheel may be easier to achieve than my initial plan for tensioning. And the rule of thumb info is really useful to know yes As per your suggestion and Perko I will give it a run and observe before I decide to take a slither off the shoulder.

19/07/2020 16:52:32
Posted by John MC on 19/07/2020 08:48:01:

Is mounting the lathe on a moveable stand a good idea? I hate to think what dragging it along a less than perfectly flat and smooth floor will do to the machines alignment, especially a relatively lightweight machine like the Zyto.

John

Good point John and honestly I don't know if the moving in and out of position will affect the Lathe setup. I will have to cross that bridge later. If I do experience alignment issue I may have to relocate other things and leave it permanently on its jacks. Thanks

19/07/2020 16:49:02
Posted by Perko7 on 19/07/2020 04:22:19:

From my experience with flat leather belts, they do flap a bit at speed but rubbing on a smooth surface like the shoulder of the back gear would not cause any problem. Mine will sometimes rub on the end of a piece of steel angle forming the motor mount, other than polishing the end of the angle no harm has resulted to the belt.

Ok thanks for that info Perko yes I think will give it a shot and see how it goes first.

18/07/2020 21:09:32

back gear shoulder clearance.jpg2.jpg@SillyOldDuffer. Re: my last reply to you.....

"do you think it would be an issue to run 20/40 thou off the shoulder of that gear ? Just to give a tad more clearance."

My thinking is a miss is as good as a mile but I don't know if that applies to drive belts ? I believe the Poly V belt is 3.5mm thick. should be approx 0.8mm of clearance. A touch off the shoulder would improve that a tad but I really don't know how snug these belts get and what the tolerances are when they are in tension and whizzing round at speed.1.jpg

18/07/2020 20:48:49
Posted by Dave Halford on 18/07/2020 19:45:25:
Posted by Dibnah on 18/07/2020 18:14:46:
Posted by Dave Halford on 18/07/2020 13:13:41:

Well, you've moved all the weight really high up, made the base really narrow and put tiny wheels on it.

I would suggest that you never move it like that, running those wheels into any dip like the joints on those bricks in the floor will likely trip it up. You should at least be using the size of wheels from that mobile screen you have in the last photo.

I've got a cheap Halfords tool chest with that size of wheel and it gets stuck on anything.

I appreciate the concerns chaps but from here on in you really don't need to raise that issue. I should have said the feedback I am looking for is more to do with particular knowledge about perhaps the belts run better off to the side or don't place motor on side etc etc or whatever little lathe nuance you are aware of. The shape, rigidity, stability type issues of the base are all fine. The size of the wheels are absolutely fine for the surface they are intended for, they cope with the friction for that surface fine and individually rated for 75Kg. Incidentally even those larger castors on my mobile gantry aren't designed for going off road just like the castors on your tool chest, at the single point of contact they rely on a fairly frictionless surface which means even trying to steamroll an m3 nut can draw a halt to rotation. I stress they are only for moving the lathe a short distance from it's storage place and I have said it will be stabilised with Jacks for use (they maybe not too clear in pics but are on there and the final construction will involve longitudinal mechanical connection, so no issue with leveraged rotational or indeed any other forces. I'm confident as I deal with that kind of stuff in working life and maybe I should have been clear about that to avoid this repetition. I promise if I ever get egg on my face and it topples I will post the picture of the plaster cast ! laugh

I wont see it if you do

Ok no probs Dave, like I said I do appreciate the concerns but you are wrong. I'm happy to learn from you guys about lathe specifics but the other stuff I really do know about and didn't wish to be rude in my responses.

18/07/2020 18:26:03
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 18/07/2020 15:09:10:
Posted by Dave Halford on 18/07/2020 13:13:41:

Well, you've moved all the weight really high up, made the base really narrow and put tiny wheels on it.

...

I agree - it's an accident waiting to happen.

Not knocking Dibnah's sterling efforts just for sport, it's just that the forum knows lathes are notoriously top heavy. Much inclined to capsize and frequently bolted down for safety reasons. I reckon I could topple my lathe by pushing hard backwards and it doesn't have a heavy motor high in the air making it extra unstable.

The great Fred Dibnah (any relation?) made a good living out of toppling. Chimneys weighing thousands of tons that had weathered storm and tempest for a century brought down by Fred after a few hours work. All he had to do was upset the balance a little, which would be easy to do to this poor old Zyto widow-maker. The hard part of Fred's job was making the chimney fall in the right direction, and I've seen one film clip were he had to run for it!

Is it possible to hang the motor underneath the lathe? Dropping the centre of gravity beneath the bed by moving the motor would stabilise the set-up. Otherwise bolt it to the wall or fit outriggers.

Dave

Thanks Dave I have addressed stability etc in prior post. I did consider initially placing motor below but as I want to keep the footprint small I would have had to cut away part of tray in order to keep counter shaft in close proximity. No relation but Fred was a legend, I just had that nick name for years. One issue I have run into is depending on type of belt used it is very tight between belt and the rear of the right hand side back gear (When engaged), do you think it would be an issue to run 20thou off the shoulder of that gear ? Just to give a tad more clearance. Another thing I was thinking about is if there is any losses due to the angle of the belts ?

18/07/2020 18:14:46
Posted by Dave Halford on 18/07/2020 13:13:41:

Well, you've moved all the weight really high up, made the base really narrow and put tiny wheels on it.

I would suggest that you never move it like that, running those wheels into any dip like the joints on those bricks in the floor will likely trip it up. You should at least be using the size of wheels from that mobile screen you have in the last photo.

I've got a cheap Halfords tool chest with that size of wheel and it gets stuck on anything.

I appreciate the concerns chaps but from here on in you really don't need to raise that issue. I should have said the feedback I am looking for is more to do with particular knowledge about perhaps the belts run better off to the side or don't place motor on side etc etc or whatever little lathe nuance you are aware of. The shape, rigidity, stability type issues of the base are all fine. The size of the wheels are absolutely fine for the surface they are intended for, they cope with the friction for that surface fine and individually rated for 75Kg. Incidentally even those larger castors on my mobile gantry aren't designed for going off road just like the castors on your tool chest, at the single point of contact they rely on a fairly frictionless surface which means even trying to steamroll an m3 nut can draw a halt to rotation. I stress they are only for moving the lathe a short distance from it's storage place and I have said it will be stabilised with Jacks for use (they maybe not too clear in pics but are on there and the final construction will involve longitudinal mechanical connection, so no issue with leveraged rotational or indeed any other forces. I'm confident as I deal with that kind of stuff in working life and maybe I should have been clear about that to avoid this repetition. I promise if I ever get egg on my face and it topples I will post the picture of the plaster cast ! laugh

Thread: Poly-Vee Belts
18/07/2020 08:50:18
Posted by Martin Whittle on 17/07/2020 23:15:26:

, I purchased a belt, £9.95 (seemed standard price for almost anything of similar style) with free delivery, from Bolton Engineering Products only today to play with - they have web and ebay sites (BoltonBearings).

Martin

You didn't say the length of belt you ordered for that price but this company might be worth bookmarking.

This size will suit me I think once I have moved things around a bit and it's only £2.78 delivered !

**LINK**

18/07/2020 08:20:42
Posted by Martin Whittle on 17/07/2020 22:40:17:

The poly-v works very well on flat pulley for this light loading, and you absolutely do not need to machine your existing pulley to fit.

zyto headstock end.jpg

Martin

 

That is definitely good to know and info about the belt sizing that followed. Thanks Martin

 

Edited By Dibnah on 18/07/2020 08:36:54

17/07/2020 19:48:52
Posted by duncan webster on 15/07/2020 23:38:31:

Can you re-machine the flat belt pulleys to accept poly vee properly? I do realise you'd need access to another lathe

Not at the moment ...no but that could change as just been offered a Viceroy. It's like it's just starting to rain lathes in my life ! That can't be such a bad thing can it !? smiley

17/07/2020 19:46:26
Posted by colin hawes on 16/07/2020 12:11:10:

I have been using a toothed belt on it's smooth side to drive my Drummond lathe for years as I reckon it gives a better grip than leather and no changes in it's tension. Colin

yes Cheers Colin

17/07/2020 19:45:51
Posted by Bazyle on 16/07/2020 08:29:30:

I'm led to believe that cows don't live forever. Leather beltig is available. I also have a length of some specialised rubberised modern belting but it has no ID marks on it. On another forum as an aside in another topic someone mentioned that they used fiberglass reinforced packing tape made up into a belt for a Southbend lathe.

If thnking of making grooves in a pulley I would suggest starting with an aluminium casting.

yes Long live the cows. Cows lives matter laugh

Thread: Attempting To Make My (new to me) Zyto Beautiful
17/07/2020 19:40:48

img-20200717-wa0009.jpgimg-20200717-wa0008.jpgimg-20200717-wa0007.jpgimg-20200717-wa0003.jpgimg_20200717_153350.jpgThanks to Lee & Brian for also popping in here.

I just tacked on a bracket to rear of stand which will hold a vertical frame (that I have yet to make) but managed to clamp on couple pieces of angle iron and clamped motor and countershaft to them to show roughly how they will be when finished. Obviously any thoughts to potential issues would be glad to hear it, the obvious one being ensuring clearance for the back gear shaft and just general accessibility to nuts and bolts on lathe etc.

I plan to sort belt tension between countershaft/headstock and motor/countershaft separately. It looks like previously between motor and countershaft nothing in place. Nothing fancy for that just a slot with captive nut and bolt to apply pressure to countershaft mounts. Then they will both slide in unison like in a lift shaft using the angle frame as a guide. With some stud to lift or lower. A bit like the action of a vice.

img_20200717_153339.jpg

17/07/2020 19:11:18
Posted by Ady1 on 17/07/2020 15:05:07:

My shaper has the same sort of stand, with cross struts

Put in cross struts and bottom struts as recommended by sillyoldduffer, make a reinforced box shape

and check regularly for welding cracks once it's under a working load, I have fixed at least one crack which suddenly appeared in my own frame

GL

Edited By Ady1 on 17/07/2020 15:06:37

Thanks Ady just explained to S.O.D. why I haven't done anything as yet. Only needs longitudinally. Top and bottom is connected front to back. Don't want to be around to experience the forces that will break these welds.thinkinglaugh

17/07/2020 19:00:38
Posted by Clive Foster on 17/07/2020 14:35:26:

Dibnah

Rather than trying to create a sturdy bench I'd be looking around for cupboards or drawer sets that could be turned into a lathe support at reasonable cost.

 

rse taper things. Four holes drilled at about 30° upward slope. Now sits on my Smart & Brown 1024.

Clive

Thanks for both suggestions and info Clive. I want to keep the footprint minimal and be able to move it around easily and just lower the jacks when in use.

Edited By Dibnah on 17/07/2020 19:01:10

17/07/2020 18:55:24
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 17/07/2020 11:43:11:
Posted by Dibnah on 17/07/2020 10:51:00:

img_20200716_161101.jpg

Good start, but the structure has a very weak geometry. I'd add more struts.

cantilevers.jpg

Lathes are great fun, but not if one falls on your feet! Enjoy.

Dave

yesYes agree. I thought I said here but must have been another thread that I plan to make a mechanical connection longitudinally either weld or bolt in the form of a shelf. Maybe even two shelves but wanted to leave that until I'm satisfied with my motor mount plans.

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