Member postings for Dieselman

To come back on this.
I drew the gear and shaft partially out of the belt pulleys using a bush puller, which was a lot easier than I expected, which indicates the interference fit can't be supplying much load.
I then made a profile guage out of HDPE, ground back the single damaged tooth on the drive gear and welded it up with arc rod. Welding in very small steps, peening, de-slagging and wire brushing before the next weld. The weld apepars to have bonded perfectly. After grinding and filing that tooth it is nearly perfect. I drew the shaft back into the pulleys.

For the back gear, I have welded it similarly and cut the gear teeth. I've not made quite as good a job of the profiling, but the teeth fit and clear well.
Time and working this under load will tell if this repair has been successful, long term. Ideally, I will either cut new teeth, or gear, or replace the back gear.

The back gear guard was broken, so I have welded that too. The metal appeared more granular in this part, but the weld is strong. Once I ground into the gear bosses, the metal appeared to have a more steel like structure, not granular like cast iron.

Next query...
Can anyone please confirm the size of nut used to hold the spindle thread cutting gear on. It appears to be 5/8", but with 16 tpi, not 14 tpi, which would be BSF.



Does anyone have the required back gear and spindle nut and a single back gear guard screw to sell?

That is my backstop option. Turn the gear down and either fit a steel/iron blank, or gear. Using a hobbing tool to turn the blank is the obvious choice.

If doing a single or a few teeth, I would go for making a holder for the gear, that advances it a single tooth at a time, as I don't have dividing head.

I need to get the machine up and running first, to be able to use it to make it's own parts.  The Salamander lathe...

Firstly, I'll make a plastic mould to use as a guage and have a go at hand forming a tooth.

Edited By Dieselman on 24/04/2020 15:19:07

Thanks to all that have responded.

I do have the Drummond manual and on had only had a cursory look at the headstock setup.

When looking at the pulley shaft it appeared to be be a single shaft, with a flange on the Bull gear end, inside the large pulley.

On looking closely at the illustation, it appears to be a split shaft, pressed in from both ends. The bull gear end is probably  a centering journal for teh Bull gear.

The oil screw is just that, just to block the oiling port.

I'll have another look. I'm waiting on some new 1/8" balls for the thrust bearing..I only found 11 out of 16...

Edited By Dieselman on 24/04/2020 15:10:15

Hopper and Bayzle.

Thanks for the link to the new group, indeed the yahoo group has gone.

I have a pending registration for the Fb group...maybe I need a Union card, or something...

I will look out for a replacement back gear, but am more concerned regarding the spindle pulley gear, as I cant see how it can be removed, and the teeth butt upto the pulley, so restrict access.

It could be machined with a dovetail cutter and a pre-machined tooth slid in from the end, then affixed.

Edited By Dieselman on 24/04/2020 10:06:01

I don't have either the skills or equipment for casting a new one and believe a repair is possible as it's only the smaller (22t) gears teeth that are broken.

I have arc welded some material onto the hub and intend to look into a repair.

The options appear to be use freehand tools, or buy a gear cutter and make a suitable boring bar to use in the chuck, whilst the gear is held stationery on the toolpost/saddle. I believe the gears are 14DP.

It may be cheaper to obtain a replacement, or have it machined.

Hi..I understand the spindle should be stationery when engaging the back gear, but having just built up the back gear components, it was on my mind and I foolishly flicked the lever round..

Edited By Dieselman on 24/04/2020 09:51:55

Hi,

I have a 1936 M Type which I am commissioning. Due to being a treddle machine it appears to have been used very lightly.

I have three immediate queries:

1. Having made up a new clipped balata belt I found the clip was snagging on the flywheel journals and traversing up to the next ring. I adjusted the edge of the clip which fixed it.

I then treddled to test the operation and foolishly engaged the back gear. The bull gear was disengaged, but the shock was enough to break a tooth off the spindle gear and a few off the back gear.

I'm furious with myself, but that doesn't change the fact it is broken.

Does anyone have a back gear and drive gear, to sell, alternatively, has anyone repaired these gears by either letting a tooth in, or welding them up and cutting new teeth?

Can the drive gear be removed from the drive pulley, it appears fixed, but not cast as a single item.

Second query.

I was going to use a treadmill motor to drive the machine, but due to curfew, the treadmill is now in use for it's intended purpose, so intend to use the1425rpm, 1/2hp AC motor I have.

My intention is to drive the original flywheel, probably by the outer ring, but as this flywheel is for a treddle, it has no machining on the outer flange.

The options appear to be to use a flat belt with guides for tracking, or cut a channel in the outer ring...or indeed a ring gear and make it a knee planer.

Is the outer journal crowned and would a flat belt run centrally, without any machining?

Would the flywheel need to be rebalanced if the treddle is removed?

The motor will need a 2" pulley/gear for the speed to be correct. I want to motor to be underslung as space is a premium, but also feel the flywheel will damp any single phase vibrations

Thirdly, if using the smallest flywheel drive pulley to the largest spindle pulley, should one use a second, shorter, flat drive belt, as the length is considerably different.

I could shorten the belt I have made and add a link belt to make it the longer length.

I am a DIY car repairs enthusiast with general fabrication equipment (grinders, welders), but don't have an engineering workshop, so cannt perform my own machining of the gears at present.

Sorry for the long post.