Member postings for Jeremy Smith 2

Great info from everyone.

Do you recommend i purchase a live center, instead of a dead center, now?

I usually turn plain mild steel, but it would be great to know what pressures for other materials as well. Also, how deep should i be drilling the hole with a center drill?

i recently burned up a dead center, turning the shank of a grade 8 bolt (super tough). I’m trying to determine if this was caused by too much preload, or some other issue. Was it just tougher material than the dead center? I was using grease as lubricant.

How does one correctly set the pressure of the dead center, into the end of a piece of stock? How much pressure should there be?

I have a chuck that I would like to outfit to my myford ml10 lathe. Unfortuneately it does not have a backing plate (the chuck I have), and I need to source one for it.

I don’t have the skills, just yet, to machine my own from scratch. Does anyone know where I could source one from? Will it be true to the centerline of the lathe once bolted to the chuck, or do I have to face it before fully installing it to the new chuck

Will metric er25 collets work with imperial sized milling cutters? I’m looking at this set.

Link Removed see C of C

Edited By JasonB on 03/01/2021 15:25:51

All this information has been fantastic. Thank you all. I will be having him send me closeups of the cutters, as He is a few hours away. I will post the photos here shortly.

I am actually located in Canada, so I will stick with imperial.

Edited By Jeremy Smith 2 on 28/12/2020 03:04:11

I purchased an rf30 mill about 6 months ago, and got some cheap chinese bits off of amazon to practice on. I have only one 3/8” collet currently (the morse taper 3 one). I have broken every bit as of now, and am ready to commit on new quality bits, now that I finally know what I am doing

What sizes should i purchase to get started? There is a guy in the classifieds getting rid of a ton of machine shop tooling and bits, so I have a unique opportunity here to get a bundles worth. It’s time to outfit the mill.

Which items do you use the most?

Edited By Jeremy Smith 2 on 22/08/2020 07:13:04

Right now i am just trying to keep me going, as I don’t want to invest a lot in hardware which I will not use currently.

I have a lot of bolts and nuts already, but I am missing stuff for machining and tool building. Ie set screws and small taps, machine screws

Which types should i stock? Conical point, Or cup point set screws? Which thread size. I plan on making more tooling for my myford ml10.

In regards to machine screws, what do you tend to stock in your shop?

Already read it! Great book.

I have been on harold hall’s website before - great website, but I am really trying to dummy down the basics on the lathe skills before attempting his projects.

i have a myford ml10

I am still acquiring new skills on the lathe. I have a few tools, but not everything yet - no knurlier, parting off blade, or boring bar.

I’m looking for projects which will teach me the skills necessary for the next step, so I can improve.

Does anyone have simple examples of projects which i could build myself to assist with this? Maybe some easy boring bars to build, then a project which requires me to use it. Then another tool I need to build, and a project which needs that tool...if you get my drift. Then another project which requires both these tools...

Edited By Jeremy Smith 2 on 20/08/2020 02:06:27

The machine was actually dropped at one point, and took some abuse. I had the base welded up, with a reinforcement plate also structurally bonded to the top, over top of the weld.I shimmed it the best I could get it. I will have to get the top of the table surface ground at a machine shop, as it was pretty rough when I got it.

I restored an Rf30 milling machine a while back, and now I am learning how to use it. Keep in mind I am a rookie.

i trammed the head to the table as close as i could get it. My next question is - when you clamp parts down, do you retram the part to the head, and shim under the part if needed, to get it square, or just keep the part flat on the trammed base of the mill?

Maybe I am overthinking this. These questions are all in regards to removing material from the top of a part, parallel to its base. How about with a milling vise...retram the actual part to the quill (after it is clamped in the vise) before making any passes?

anybody have a how to guide on milling for dummies lol?

Edited By Jeremy Smith 2 on 16/07/2020 06:09:54

I did a search, but haven't seen anything regarding the shimming of the head. Just the actual tramming.

I just finished restoring a used milling machine, and i am still learning all the ins and outs of the tool.

how does one tram a milling head like mine? Do i use shims on the base of the post? How often does one need to tram the actual machine?

Edited By JasonB on 22/06/2020 07:00:54

Also, i noriced some of these chucks have flat ends on the end of the taper - what are those designed for?

Are all morse tapers tapped with a hole one one end to allow for the drawbar? I saw some photos online, but the description failed tp mention whether they were tapped.

In regards to the most vommonly sized tool, is there one? I mean i know its a generic question. Most of my applications will be for modifying pulleys, building spacers, hinges... all car related.

Edited By Jeremy Smith 2 on 12/06/2020 00:40:21

Do the er25 collet tools also use a drawbar?

obviously, the er20 collets would most likely to be too small,?

Edited By Jeremy Smith 2 on 11/06/2020 22:21:39