Member postings for Bo'sun

Thanks guys,

VOC's are certainly a problem, and yes, "more questions than answers".

Watch what you're doing. "Rod for your own back" and all that.

Maybe it has some hydrophilic constituent, although most polishes seem to do that for a while.

Hi All,

This seems to be a common question. What is the best product/method for cleaning the inside of your vehicles windscreen? I've tried all of the products in my local supermarket and the large car accessories retailer, but none work as promised. They all claim "crystal clear vision", "smear free", " added vinegar", "easy to use", etc.

I did find an old bottle of mauve Windowlene, and it worked beautifully, but the powdery residue everywhere wasn't worth it.

Has anyone found the wonder product or method?

Hi IanH,

If you've got room for a lip seal, why not another sealed bearing. The seals would at least be lubricated. "Belt & braces" maybe, but what's wrong with that?

Hi GJ9,

I believe Xylonite was used in the past as a replacement for Ivory on domestic cutlery. I also seen to remember it was flammable.

Stock clearance sale maybe?

Another vote for adjustable parallels. If you don't want to buy a set, buy a small one (if you can buy them singly of course) and use it with suitable plain packing pieces.

Why Lanolin? I recall using it as an apprentice to protect measuring instruments in the metrology department.

I guess if it keeps sheep dry, it must have something going for it.

It's not the stand. Warco wouldn't have assembled the stand to test the one they have that's doing the same.

It's almost like they think it's OK for the saw to nod and the cast iron frame to flex. Astonishing!

After much deliberating, I decided to opt for the Warco CY90. I have to say, I was impressed by the whole package considering the price. The stand went together very well and was more than rigid enough. However, after installing the bandsaw on the stand, and checking all was OK, I was surprised at what I saw after turning it on. The non-drive end of the frame was nodding up and down by around 3mm, and you could see the frame flexing.

Warco have agreed to make an exchange, and I asked them to check the replacement before despatch. The replacement one also nods, Warco have asked if I want to make the exchange as it cuts very accurately.

I suspect one of the band wheels is out of true (as someone else has experienced). Yes, I could true it up (if that's the cause), but don't think I should have to with a brand new machine, irrespective of the cost.

While it may cut very accurately, I'm concerned about the fatigue life of the cast iron frame (it's hardly going to be SG iron). So it's back to Warco with it and back to the drawing board. Looks like FEMI might be on the cards, but I hate buying Italian stuff.

A "scribed moulding" is what you have there and as has been suggested you need a suitable cutter set. Several profiles are available, and depending on what you're doing after, a "raised panel cutter" may also be required for the centre panel.

Having said that, "panel raising" with a router needs careful consideration, and almost certainly a 1/2" router and a router table.

I use a desiccant dehumidifier with a constant drain and it works well for me with a little surface oiling from time to time. I prefer the desiccant type to the refrigerant type because they seem to work better at lower temperatures.

I would say, if you need extra throat depth and easier tension adjustment, then consider buying one. Otherwise, stick with what you've got.

I can't vouch for them as "piercing" saws as such, but for removing the waste when cutting dovetail joints, I wouldn't be without mine.

Not had any issues with my Eclipse piercing saw, and still use it for metal cutting. Blade fitting can be a bit fiddly, but you get used to it.

Not sure if they all do it, but my Knew saw frame can swivel to get better reach when close to an edge (if that makes sense?).

I should add that the "quick tension" feature on some of the Knew saws is useful, but not a game changer.

Hi Michael,

They are certainly well very made and stiffer than a conventional Coping or Fret saw. I wouldn't say they're any stiffer than a conventional Piercing saw that has a relatively small frame and hence quite stiff to start with.

The Knew saws are easier to tension and if needed, have more throat depth.

No inexpensive, so I guess you get what you pay for.

I'll see what I can do. I have to rely on someone else, unless you want a 35mm transparency. Don't do this digital garbage.

Good morning Brian,

The burner is indeed a meths burner. A tin plate tank (2.5"x 2"x1" connected to a long (3"x1"x3/16" wick holder with a piece of 3"x1" Valor Oil Stove wick.

Both combustion gas and exhaust steam exit through the chimney.

The model is from the T. E. Haynes book "Model Engineering for Schools - Book 1, Steam Engine and Boiler".

Thank you ndiy, not one I'd seen before.

A somewhat different looking machine. Presumably made in the ROC and rebadged. However, it still doesn't come complete with bench space, so I think I'm going to have to make my own. It's called a trolley I believe.

Hello Jason,

Thank you for that, I didn't know such a thing existed, but at half the price of the bandsaw, it's quite a price for what appears to be a sheet metal tube.