Member postings for JDS

I did think about trying to but I am not sure I am skilled enough not to screw it up.
hopefully I will be able to afford a bed and saddle regrind at some point but probably not for a few years yet. So if I can avoid removing material now that is the safest bet

Hi thanks for the reply

That's good know it has worked for you and a good tip on the Half nuts cheers.

I have read the Radford solution but I don't have access to a mill.

Happy days that another job to tick off.

Thanks

The saddle on my 1971 S7 does not cut square when the gib's are adjusted up.

From reading up on here this is not uncommon and there is a fix by converting it to a wide guide. This involved machining back or off the shorter inner saddle guide so the saddle runs on the 2 outer most shears.

I have fixed this problem on my lathe without any machining work and it seams to work great so I am worried that I have missed something or I am going to damage the lathe.

All I did was loosen the gib screws off and insert two 0.4mm feeler gauge blades one on either side of the saddle in between the saddle and the and the rear most vertical sheer. Re tighten the gib screws and hey presto jobs a good un or so it would seam.

The only issue is that the feeler gauges can slip out but that is easily fixed.

My question is. Is this a bad idea? Can this increase ware on the shear more than the saddle running directly would. What have I missed.

This seams like such a simple solution and it seams to have worked, but any advice and guidance is much appreciated

Edited By JDS on 01/03/2021 11:47:32

Ok so to wrap this up from my perspective.

After lots of back and forth RDG have agreed they the chuck I returned to them does not run true. Initially they said that this was because I had over machined the backplate. I reminded them to re-watch the videos I had sent them and check the messages. When the register was a spot on fit the back of the taper was running out so it had to be undersized to get the taper to run try at the back.

Long story short they sent a new Chuck. The new chuck is immediately visually better, for a start the chamfer a the front of the taper is a uniform thickness unlike the first one.

The new chuck has about 2 tenths runout so I am happy with that

Thanks again for all your help and input.

Cheers Turbine Guy that’s good to know

I follow up on my original post, I still don’t have a resolution after weeks of back and forth with RDG and different suggestion of what I need to try, including machining the Chuck they have asked me to return it for test and inspection incase the error is related to my skills rather and their parts.

Even though I sent them several videos of the runout on the backplate, runout on the Chuck back front and taper, Stuart’s blue on mating surfaces to show contact etc etc.

They have received it but not yet come back with an answer so I wait to see what happens.

I will update you guys with the outcome.

Thanks for all your advice and help

Edited By JDS on 14/02/2021 20:46:42

First off thanks to everyone who has offered advice, I know have a new spanner that is much better than the C spanner, I have found the indeed the tightness of the nuts that secure the chuck to the backplate can make up to 5 tenths difference and I have learned a new technique. Tighten collet chuck to bar to check the back of the chuck is square to the taper.

Sadly all this I am slowly losing the will to continue (not really, but if i had enough hair i would be pulling it out)

I started again from scratch. but i also skimmed the back of the chuck on advice from RDG. Unfortunately this has not made any real difference.

But what i have noticed is when it is all bolted up tight with hardly a flicker on the dti at the front of the taper the back of the taper and the face of the threaded spigot have up to 1 thou runout.

I have uploaded a short youtube video (32 seconds) to show the measurements

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-U8RaDwkYcM

Do you think the chuck might be faulty or is there something else I can try.

Once again really big thanks for all you help

Thanks guys. Thats a good video.

I am going to get a proper spanner. the only thing I have not tried yet is what Thor said to check the back of the chuck face.

I contacted RDG to see what they said and they did say it was possible that the back of the chuck to have run out so I may need to machine that as well as the backplate.

Fingers crossed for later. Wish me luck

So what technique do you guys use to tighten the nut. how do you mesure the torque I have a 1/2 drive torque wrench but i can think of a way to use that with a c spanner

Wow thats high. I did until the c spanner did not move any more, but it's handel is only about 100mm long so i gave it a tap with the hammer.

Sorry not scientific but it was pretty tight.

I think the chuck might have runout.

I re-cut the backplate and it has less than 0.0005 runout, but when i mount the chuck on the backplate the face of the chuck thread is 0.002 although the taper is 0.0005 how is this possible.

Also if i rotate the chuck on the backplate to the next bolt hole the reading stays the same

Thanks for al your help

Cheers Jason that funny you knew what i was asking even though the photo did not work.

That was excactly what I was worried about but at least i know mine is ok.

The collets locate in the nut ok and when tightened they are pretty much flush with the face of the nut.

I think i will strip it down and try again. I will let you know what i find

Hi guys thanks for all the ideas.

I have tried a few of the collets and it is pretty much the same. Tightening the collet nut more did help a bit but I did not want to over do it.

but that got me thinking I looked at the nut and saw this ( photo below) bit I don’t know if this is how it is supposed to be as I have never seen on before

It does not look right to me

Hi everyone.

Still new to lathe work but having fun playing.

I have bought an ER32 collet chuck from RDG and a set of DIN6499B collets from gloustertooling for my Myford S7

My spindle has less than 0.0005" runout.

I cut the face and register in 1 go on the backplate and then fitted the chuck.

I have 0.0005" runout on the chuck taper so I was pretty pleased with that

But

When I measured a ground 6mm pin the the collet I am getting 0.0015 runout right at the collet face and 0.0035 about 50mm out from the collet.

Is this ok or normal? Is this within tolerance for DIN6499B collets?

Have I screwed something up and can I fix it ?

Pointers and advice gratefully received

Thanks

Hi Jason

Thanks for that. Thats a good link i have not seen that forum before

Cheers

Hi Everyone. Has any of you bought the Myfordboy castings and plans that you see on youtube

Either the static or the traction.

How was it. is it good quality were there any problems?

Thanks

Ok cheers for all the reply’s guys. I thought that should be the case. There is a slight taper bu it does not bite to anything so I think loctite will be the answer. thanks again👍🏻

Hi All.

I have just got hold of my first Lathe. It is a Myford Super 7 from 1971-73.

I have a quick question. On the 60 tooth backgear there is a key to engage the smaller brass gear on the pullyhead. This key is operated by a small lever (H4 on the Myford headstock exploded diagram)

This lever was missing so i ordered a new one from myford, but it is a loose fit in the key. Is this normal. Should the lever be fixed in some way or is it designed to be removed when the lathe is running.

Hope you can help thanks