Member postings for Gavlar

I've only just noticed this thread but I had seen the lathe on ebay together with the other items that the seller (maredw-784) had for sale. When checking 'sold items' to compare the price, the same ad but with a different seller in a different location came up.

If this wasn't enough to convince anyone that the seller was a sammer, all the other facts need to be taken into account.

1. The ebay account is a new one, only opened in November

2. His feedback is all as a buyer, all from bulk sellers so presumably low value items.

3. He was selling several high value yet unrelated items, most of which had descriptions and photos directly lifted from other 'sold item' listing from other, presumably genuine, sellers.

4. He is alledgedly based way up north, making collection for most potential buyers, inconvenient.

5 He doesn't accept paypal, but does accept bank transfer.

6. His auctions are all short duration.

7. His 'sold items' showed the same items he was still selling, sometimes two or three times in the previous few days.

Number 3 should be a massive red flag to a potential buyer. Any of the others should be something of a warning, all of them taken together means this seller is a scammer.

I reported him to ebay twice over Christmas. In the past when I have done this, ebay took the auctiions down straight away. It didn't happen this time and I can only guess that covid and Christmas combined to slow things down.

Ebay can't and won't protect you from all scammers, particularly when paying using BACS. Using BACS is fine face to face, I've both bought and sold reletively high value items this way using on line banking. It's better than cash, but BACS at a distance to someone you can't authenticate is a big no no.

I've had well over 1000 transactions on ebay with no major issues, there's plenty of bargains to be had and hard to find items to be found but always, do a few checks and if it appears too good to be true, it probably is.

Why not stick it back on eBay?

Wait till they do one of their regular 'no final valuation fee' or 'maximum seller fee £1' offers, which they do quite regularly. A good description and a few photos and you're away.

Thanks John, for taking the time to scan and email the entire manual. Very much appreciated.

I had already tried Grizzly, pretty sure it will be there somewhere but it's not a current model and I haven't been able to find it.

John, I have messaged you with my email, it's the one top right in your photo.

Thank you for your assistance.

Does anyone happen to have or know where I can find technical and/or user manuals for the Warco GH750 lathe (identical to the Chester Cub 630).

I have asked Warco and they cannot help and Chester are yet to reply to my email.

Happy to pay for anyones time or perhaps a donation to the charity of your choice if you can help.

Many thanks

I think most niche interest, free to use forums are based on very similar platforms. They don't have the advertising revenue generated by having milions of users and in many cases rely on the generosity of one main sponser. Upgraded software and servers and bandwidth all cost. I wouldn't complain too much, rather, be gratefull someone else has seen fit to pay for and run the site for the benefit of the likes of me and you.

I didn't think of milling with it and I'm not sure I can now as I've messed up the inside of the reducer driling through the flats. I put a bolt through and used a cordless impact driver (not the sort you whack with a hammer!) with a slotted socket, to try and vibrate it out. Didn't work.

I have used a full can of freeze spray in earlier attempts. Didn't work either.

I like the puller idea. I'll try it over the next couple of days. Thanks.

The only piece of MT2 tooling I have is the chuck that was in the jammed reducer! All my other tooling is MT3. I specifically wanted an MT3 mill as my previous mill was MT3 as well as my lathe tailstock, so even if the reducer comes out in perfect condition, it's going in the scrap bin!

Thanks all, especially Martin, for the link to the Grizzly manual. It is much better than the one it came with.

There is no slot in the quill.

It does appear to be simply a 3MT to 2MT reducer, the internal diameter of which is the same as the internal diameter of the quill so I can't knock it out.

I think then I have two options;

The one which will take a little more time but be less likely to do damage will be to knock up something to lock the spindle, then try and twist it out and if that doesn't work, drill and bolt through the adaptor, then try and knock it out from above, using supports as Dusty has suggested.

Thank you all.

I have recently aquired a (barely) used Chester 626 Mill. It was a probate sale, so the seller can't help me.

It came with no tools and the manual doesn't help.

There is a reducer in the spindle to take 2MT tooling. I want to know how to remove this reducer. The reducer itself looks to be 3MT, it is not held in with a draw bar, the draw bar was screwed into the 2MT chuck.

There are two flats on the reducer that suggest it unscrews but I'm not sure. I'm guesing there should be some sort of keyed spanner to lock the rotation of the spindle but again, I'm not sure.

Before I go to the lengths of sourcing a correctly sized keyed spanner, can anyone advise me on the correct way to remove the reducer, please?

Thank you

Are you sure there is no way to adjust?

I'll admit I've not worked on Harrisons but the lathes I have worked on have three bolts to lock the plate and three grub screws to adjust it. The grub screws hold the plate off the underside of the carraige. The grub screw might not sit proud so may not be obvious.

Edited By Gavlar on 22/10/2020 09:22:54

Just an update;

I did try and work around the bent spindle but whilst decent work is possible, it wasn't easy and was nigh on impossible to repeat an action if the chuck was removed or the work removed from the chuck. On top of this, the low rumble at low speed, which I origonaly thought was normal and the slow oil lead from the head stock via the spindle bearings, was all starting to annoy me.

A new spindle was way to expensive, even if Boxford could still supply them.

A couple of days ago a Boxford 10-20 came up on ebay only an hours drive from me. The 10-20 is pretty much exactly the same as the 280 but with 1/2" less swing. The seller had removed all the wiring in anticipation of fitting a VFD and had broken it down into all it's sub assemblies then left it to gather dust at the back of his garage.. It was sold with a good few desirable and expensive extras that I didn't already have such as a full set of changegears, brand new 4 jaw, steadies etc. Long story short, I picked it up yesterday and today swapped the headstock, top slide riser and tailstock onto my machine

What a difference!! No rumble at low speed, no oil leak and no decernable runout..

The moral is; Dont let your heart rule your head when you are buying second hand lathes!

What's left is a complete yet unslable lathe so if you know of anyone that needs any X10 parts........

Thank you. I shall machine the back plate.

I have a Boxford 280 lathe. I have recently been tuning out all the play and trying to adjust everything to optimum.

I recently acquired a nice Burnard collet chuck but when I fitted I had around 6 thou run out at the work piece.

I removed the chuck from the back plate and checked the register and still had run out.

I then removed the back plate from the spindle and checked the spindle itself.

I have about 2 thou run out on the face of the spindle (first picture) but none the inside edge of the spindle (second picture) which tells me the spindle is not bent.

I have created an album with pictures of what I am trying to describe.

Now I could machine the face square, but if that is the correct thing to do then I would have expected this to have already been done sometime in the 30+ years since this left the factory.

The nose and spindle appear not to be one piece but I can see no way of removal or adjustment bar total removal of the spindle itself which I am keen to avoid.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Edited By Gavlar on 22/06/2020 11:51:36

Edited By Gavlar on 22/06/2020 11:59:13

I've replaced the motor several Boxfords over recent years. I think you may find it a struggle to get the motors you've linked to, to physically fit, due to the big box containing the capacitors on the side of the motor. You may also need to modify the mount on the motor and/or the lathe itself. If you can source a B56 frame foot mount motor (ideally resilient mount) it will drop straight in without modification.

Edited By Gavlar on 04/06/2020 11:41:22

I'll message you

I have a drawer full of assorted Burnerd chuck jaws. I got them as part of a job lot and they don't fit anything I currently own. If your chuck is a Burnerd and you send me precise dimensions of your broken jaw, I can't promise to have the right ones but I'll have a sift through to see if I have a suitable set.

Boxford list the wiper felts and holders for the 3565 series on their spares site.

I think it is about £20 for a complete set but when I went to order some a few months ago, chap on the end of the line sounded a bit exasperated at the admin involved for such a small order and said he would stick some in the post, which he did, with no charge.

I can't promise the same excellent service for anyone else, he may have just been in a good mood. I can't even promise that they still have them as their stock of spares for the 3565 range gets depleted. I have bought other, far more expensive parts from them in the past which may or may not have had some bearing, but in any case, it's got to be worth a phone call.

I think the chines mill in the classifieds is long gone. The ad is dated January and I emailed the seller months ago and got no reply.

Looks like your motor is rated 1380 rpm at 50Hz. The motor is designed for 50hz. Pushing it to100hz will mean it runs at double it's design speed. Who knows how long it will last?

A lot of dual voltage motors are 50 or 60Hz so they can be used in the US and the UK, so pushing them to 60 or 65 hz won't do any harm, but personally I wouldn't run them much higher.

Edited By Gavlar on 08/05/2020 21:53:56