Member postings for COLIN MARTIN 2

Hi Steve,

That's very kind of you. I will get around to looking at the job sometime in the Winter (I'm still riding at the moment) and will assess the situation!

Thanks for your help,

Colin

Thank you all for your help and suggestions.

Not done it yet: I cannot use a piece of tubing to bear tightly against the bearing because the headstock has three tubes welded into it and these protrude into the headstock, limiting what can be passed through them.

Noel: thank you for the offer, but I am in Essex.

Thanks everyone.

Colin

Thanks for all the suggestions, they are all being stored in my brain. There is no doubt about it, many heads are better than one.

Cheers,

Colin

It is a nice bike and good fun, but like all old vehicles there is always something to be done. Still, it is a hobby, not everyday transport.

Thank you, that is the best suggestion so far and may just work. The last one that I replaced the bearings in was a nightmare, as the rings were almost welded in the housings and all the hammering did not do my aged fingers any good. I am not planning to do the work until the Winter, so it will give me time to sort out the parts.

The bike is a Spanish Ducati 350, and I don't think that future maintenance figured very high up on their list of priorities when they built the bike.

Cheers,

Colin

Thank you.

In the past I have used a thick washer that fits exactly against the bush to be removed, sawn in half, and the two halves butted up against the bush or bearing ring, allowing a piece of tubing to bear against it. So, the suggestion of a steel disc may work, but the lip of the bearing available is tiny, plus the bearing rings are very tight, so the disc may not get sufficient purchase.

I am in need of some more suggestions from all you resourceful guys! I have an old motorcycle that I need to replace the taper roller headrace bearings on, and there is a problem: the bearing rings in the headstock have barely any lip showing to get a punch on.

I have done this job previously on a similar frame, and found that the only way was to grind through the rings and break them in two, but I really do not wish to go through that again. I know that the easiest way would be to run a ring of weld around the rings to shrink them, but I do not have access to a welder. Also, due to the design of the headstock, it is not feasible to drill two holes through from the outside and punch the rings out; which leaves me with the idea of grinding a recess above the ring on either side, to give enough room to get a punch onto the rings.

Can anyone offer any ideas on this? I plan to use a Dremel with a small grind wheel and, holding it vertically, grind a recess above the ring. Unfortunately, these rings are extremely tight in the housings, and take a lot of force to move, so I need to get good purchase on them. Any advice would be gratefully received!

Cheers,

Colin

Sorry to disappoint anyone, but the taps have gone to a good home.

Cheers,

Colin

If Grenville Hunt is reading this, please check your inbox.

I have 22 unwanted BSF and BSW taps that I bought from a retired tool maker 30 years ago, and as I only work in Metric, have never used them. They are UK and USA made and are free to the first claimer. Postage is £3, or pick up from me in Brentwood, Essex.

PM me if interested.

Cheers,

Colin

Looks good; food for thought.

Here is another question: my indexable 10mm tooling requires 25 thou shims under the shank to bring the cutting tip up to height; so, is there any reason why I cannot cut a 25 thou shim to fit under the tool post to avoid the need to shim the tools up to height?

Cheers,

Colin

Thanks for the replies. Another problem that I have is with the mounting of boring tools. I have two round shank 10 mm boring tools with flats top and bottom which I have been using in the QCTP, but I cannot mount them in the 4 way TP because the cutting tip is too low, even shimmed up as high as it will go. The only option that I can see is to mount the tool post on a spacer to get the required height; any other solutions?

Cheers,

Colin

Edited By COLIN MARTIN 2 on 04/02/2023 11:56:00

I have been looking at getting a T37 QCTP for my Warco, as I have been using the flimsy, cheapo one that was on my mini lathe, but apart from the cost, the T37 has to be machined for the Warco boss, so I thought that maybe just buying another standard tool post might be the best bet, because that would give me eight tools set up and ready to go, especially as I am using indexable tools now.

However, in reality they are two-way tool posts, because the Banggood tools that I have are so long that only two can be accommodated at one time. Has anyone else dealt with this? Can the tool shanks be easily cut with an angle grinder to shorten them?

Cheers,

Colin

OK, thanks, that's very useful.

Cheers,

Colin

Thank you. I have been meaning to try my hand at thread cutting for a long time and this is the perfect chance to learn.

Cheers,

Colin

Thanks Duncan, great info.

Thanks Huub,

This will be a good excuse to practise thread cutting, and the good news is that I have found a piece of 35mm mild steel bar which is about a foot long, so will give me plenty of material to use!

Cheers,

Colin

Thank you for all your replies, much appreciated as usual. I will go through my scrap bin and see if I have some suitable sized mild steel round bar and will turn up something to do the job.. I have never done thread cutting on my lathe, but will see if it is possible; if not I will get my local engineering firm to cut the thread.

Thanks everyone,

Colin

The bike is a Spanish-made Ducati 350; although they are similar to Italian-produced ones, they are not the same. I could make one, but it would be a lot of work, as I only have a lathe not a mill, but I can buy the 1.5 threaded type for £13.50. Possibly I could cut off the threaded portion and re-thread it to 1.0 (the thread is external) or make a stepped collar that threads onto it with the correct thread at the bottom, or weld a threaded collar on, although I have no welding facilities either.

Thanks,

Colin

Hi All,

I have an old motorcycle that I need to make a flywheel extractor for (new ones are not available) but the thread in the flywheel that the extractor screws into is an unusual size - M33 x 1, which is a bummer as I can easily buy an extractor with an M33 x 1.5 thread cheaply. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how I could modify the standard extractor? Would it be possible to cut a 1.0 thread into the 1.5? Would it be possible to build up the thread with weld and recut it to 1.0?

Any suggestions are welcome!

Cheers,

Colin