I have recently acquired a new-to-me Harrison M300 lathe. It comes fitted with a 3-phase 2.2 kW motor (can be wired star or delta) and I plan to fit with a suitable VFD. The M300 will replace a Boxford model C (now available for sale) and a superior Denford Viceroy TDS 1/2 PCS (the model with powered cross feed) in due course. However, I digress.

I'm looking for comments on the following options.

Option 1: 2.2 kW motor and VFD

Looking at the specification for 2.2 kW output VFDs it would appear the input current can reach about 24 A. This seems rather high but I'm guessing it is maximum inrush current and/or transitory overload. It wouldn't surprise me if many users of cheap import 2.2 kW VFDs use a regular 13 A fused plug and bearing in mind my lathe will be used for light duties only (I bought it for features, rather than throughput) I could possibly do the same, maybe tweaking the VFD configuration. If this didn't work out, I could get a 32A socket fitted but this lacks some flexibility for me as I occasionally need to move machines around in my home workshop.

Option 2: 1.5 kW motor and VFD

Another option I have considered is to fit a 1.5 kW motor (I have no shortage of spare motors from 370 W to 2.2 kW) and fit a smaller VFD. My preferred drive (WEG CFW300 IP20 1.5kW 230V 1ph to 3ph) has a maximum input current of 16.1 A and I'm reasonably confident this will run from any 13 A socket given my use-scenario. This will down-rate the capability of the lathe but most likely exceed my personal needs. If it proved inadequate I could refit the 2.2 kW motor and replace the VFD. That would prove expensive.

Option 3: 1.5 kW motor (trial) and 2.2 kW VFD

This leaves me with the final option: to fit the 1.5 kW motor to assess performance using a 2.2 kW VFD. The 2.2 kW VFD is marginally more expensive than the 1.5 kW option. The 2.2 kW VFD would of course be configured to match the 1.5 kW motor and I assume (but do not know) it would run without problem on a standard 13 A plug as per option 2. If the motor output power proved inadequate for my needs (unlikely, but possible) I could refit the 2.2 kW motor and go to option 1.

You don't need to buy a ready made pendant for these WEG inverters. Wiring stop, start, direction and speed is ridiculously easy. You can download a quick start guide from Inverter supermarket. You may find the filtered ones cause tripping on a home supply. I have four unfiltered ones and they work flawlessly. Actually, I have a couple that I need to sell and upgrade due to buying larger machines. I'm Dorset based.

Maybe disconnect the motor and see if the error code appears?

WEG inverters get my vote. Reliable, reasonable price and simple to set up. Inverter supermarket have a quick set up guide for these inverters that anyone could follow.

Why not just fix a dial indicator to the cross slide to show movement across the bed? Cheap, no battery, easy to read and zero.

It looks like original (chipped) paint to me.

Thanks, I guess it could be used that way.

This compound slide has joined my "it will be useful one day" collection. It has the feel and appearance of being a quality item, with a slick action, thrust bearings and adjustable gib strips. Curiously, it incorporates a small lever and secondary range of movement perpendicular to the feed screw. I'm not sure how that would be used.

If anyone could enlighten me or even suggest a machine this belonged to I would be interested to hear from you.

All sorted now with the kind help of a member. Thanks.

I'm looking for a user / service manual for an Adcock Shipley 1ESG milling machine, fitted with a vertical head. Does anyone have a scanned copy they would be willing to share? Many thanks.

I had another look at the saddle to see if I could make a tool to press the stud through. I then resolved to try with a punch and hammer. With the saddle loose (gib strip removed) I added some packing between the saddle and lathe ways and then tried a few gentle taps... success! Just be sure to move the saddle to the tailstock end so the leadscrew nut can be removed.

If it's a push fit removal could be tricky. I will have a look later to see if I can press it out with a custom tool. It would be good to know that it will press out before applying pressure!

Yes, gib strip and all gib strip screws removed. The saddle won't lift away from the dovetailed bed.

I have a vintage Drummond "flat bed" lathe which I am dismantling for restoration. I have previously referred to it as a B-type (the lathe bed is marked "Mch. B" but it has been suggested this lathe model is a "pre-B".

I am now down to the last couple of screws and the cross slide saddle. The lead screw and drive shaft have already been removed.

The saddle will not slide off unless the leadscrew full nut is removed, but there is no obvious way to remove the nut. The nut appears to be original to the lathe; it is stamped "10" in common with other parts of the lathe and is in excellent condition with very little wear. I'm not sure if the nut is a press-fit into the saddle or threaded in somehow. The centre punch mark (see photos) suggests to me that it may be threaded, maybe.

Any ideas?

I agree with this analysis. Likelihood is too much current is being drawn and so the PSU is resetting itself.

Edited By AJAX on 02/09/2022 08:47:55

Overpriced.

Judging by the state of one gear with several missing teeth it has likely had a hard life. Submarine or Chinese junk?

Perhaps the alternator was rated at a theoretical maximum of 6 kW. In typical marketing BS they failed to point out the engine was incapable of driving the alternator to its full potential.

I have the same drill, fitted with a 3 phase motor and vfd. The drill features a large t-slotted table that I find very useful. Have you tried power tapping?

Nicholas,

Slacken off that drawbaw, maybe half a turn. Tap the hex head with a soft hammer. This will loosen the mt3 fitting. Then undo drawbar fully and remove arbor.

I have the same milling machine.

The broken leadscrew drives the x axis when the worm wheel rotation is locked.

The leadscrew also acts as a rack. When the worm wheel is unlocked it acts as a pinion, allowing rapid traverse with a handle.

On my list of jobs to do is to get rid of this drive as it is a source of vibration.