Member postings for DiogenesII

A phone call always used to be by far the best way to get hold of him...

A mate used to have a drop-down flap hinged to the back of the door, behind which was a side-hinged triangular brace much like some drop-leaf tables have - when he needed to get the grinder /welder, etc out, he could hook the door back, put up this little 'table' and do 'dirty' work outside the workshop.

When he'd finished it dropped back flat against the door.

Nigel, sounds like you might want to disable the "Photos" app in Settings / Apps, it you don't want it to re-organise your pictures and automatically back-them-up-for-you, i.e. send them to a cloud without you asking -

..'though of course you did give permission for all this and more when you installed Windows..

OpenOffice will supply you, for free, with an Office suite that is about as close to the MS offering in both appearance and functionality as legality will allow - I haven't used MS Office for years, and haven't needed to, in the sense that no-one has asked me to resend anything, and neither have I been unable to open any spreadsheets etc. that I've been sent or downloaded.

HTH

Edited By DiogenesII on 14/05/2023 13:47:46

There are a number of earlier threads about Dewhurst Switches.

The switch connections are explained at the bottom of this one.

Model-Engineer.co.uk - Wiring Dewhurst Switch

(Supply = Neu to '3', Line to '1', Earth to case)

Edited By DiogenesII on 14/05/2023 09:06:12

+1 - please do keep us updated

Thank you very much for this.

Edited By DiogenesII on 13/05/2023 07:54:40

Have you 'Disk check' -ed it?

Dig it carefully (try not to break up the white roots) and pick out all the bits. Do it again in another couple of weeks and you'll find more that you missed first time round.

The point of doing this is to make less plant to kill.

Let any stems grow, encourage them up canes or sticks to make them easy to handle and keep them out of things you want.

Once they reach a good length,with some full leaves, carefully coil them up (still attached to the root), put some rubber gloves on and wet them liberally with a systemic weedkiller* and seal them in a plastic bag with a rubber band round the neck.

Let them 'stew' for a while to let the chemicals kill the root.

"Weedol" do some strong products - they will neutralise on contact with soil so you can replant quickly.

Be careful to observe safety precautions and don't get the Weedol on anything you want to keep, even splashes of it..

Repeat until defeated.

Thanks from me also for taking the trouble to post that, Paul - very useful.

John, David Kerzel also gave words and music for a straight-spoked wheel for his H/M engine published on Florida AME website;

FloridaAME - David Kerzel's Hit Miss Engine

I include it here because such a useful thread title will bring others here in the future, I'm sure.

Gov.UK/Goods sent from Abroad/Tax & Duty

Sounds like a bargain - let us know how it goes.

Standard ML7 'screw threaded portion is 5 1/2 inches long.

Bradley says the long slide was (physically) 1 5/8" longer, but I don't know if this equates to the same amount of extra travel/screw length.

Edited By DiogenesII on 06/05/2023 18:22:10

Edited By DiogenesII on 06/05/2023 18:22:27

I think the long slide has a travel of 6 or 7 inches?

..so I 'd guess the thread length ain't going to be hugely generous..

Think they were all 3/8 x 10tpi. The longest one will prob be for a 'pre-power cross feed' S7, but others may know better, I'm prepared to be corrected.

Cutwel --ER tapping collets

FWIW - The Imperial collets I have (mostly ARC's, I think) 'hold' at stated size, I mean that the 1/4 is a slide fit on a 1/4" shank in it's relaxed state.and the 1/2, 5/8 (and others) also - they don't fall out when you loosen them. Seem to be genuine Imperial sizes & not metric closest fit.

Snapped the arm of my favourite wire-framed reading/workshop glasses across the eye.

Managed to scarf in a piece of thin brass strip with hard solder (I was rather waiting for everything to instantaneously vanish in the flame) and then drilled the 1.4mm pivot-hole on the Warco Major, before spending a jolly quarter of an hour filing it to shape peering at progress through a magnifying glass at intervals.

A successful outcome.

I understand, my apologies.

When you remove a piece, use a fine marker to put a line on a chuck jaw and the work, so that you can put back in exactly the same position as it was last time you worked on it.

Why do you have to take it out and replace it?

Best practice is to work out how to do the operations that need to be concentric without disturbing the part - often it can be as simple as making the the part with extra material to hold in the jaws, and then parting it off once all the critical operations are done.

If you need to make the parted end look tidy then it's okay to put it back in the jaws as a last operation because errors of concentricity in a facing cut aren't always so visible.

Perfect,I'll try M-machine, could only see 1 1/8" on their Ebay store but will give them a call tomorrow. I was after metric.

EKP is also a good shout have used them for other stuff before.

If I get stuck I'll send Mrs Diogenes's brother to Kings Lynn.

Baz, I've got Silver Steel, just didn't want to use it for this application where appearance / ease of machining matters more than toughness.

Thanks all.

Edited By DiogenesII on 01/05/2023 15:46:41