Member postings for tom_tom_go

Apologies for the delayed reply, day job getting in the way of workshop time.

Thank you to everyone for your replies. The way I am testing the regulator I now realise is wrong and the MECH mention is a great suggestion so I will be checking that out if I cannot get the current regulator to seal in it's current state.

I am trying to get a Don Young 5" gauge Hunslet loco steam regulator to seal when closed which I have achieved if I screw the disc to the regulator but when I apply a spring so the disc can rotate the disc lifts when tested on air. I am using a 20 SWG spring as specified in the drawings.

Advice appreciated please.

Tom

Updating this as it might help others one day, 52mm for the lathe spindle register is normal for the current VM240, VM250 and VM280 Warco lathes.

Back plates are available to purchase from their website, part code 5444.

Thanks for the other posts guys.

Looks like I will have to make a back plate although I have seen today that Warco will supply one for your particular lathe spindle but I have messaged them to check my lathe spindle register size of 52mm as it does not sound like a standard size to me that Warco would supply for a 100mm back plate (my lathe came with a 125mm back plate attached to a 3 jaw 125mm chuck but I don't want to disturb the fitment and reuse the existing 125mm back plate).

It does have a 3MT taper in the bore but I would like to be able to pass bar stock through the headstock. Also, I assume you would need to make a drawbar to screw into the 3MT collet chuck as the bore on my lathe at least has no thread.

I have a metric import lathe that is similar to a Warco VM240 and would like to fit an ER40 collet chuck.

The lathe spindle register is 52mm (my ME group suggested it may be Imperial measuring 2" instead) but I can't find a commercial back plate that fits with a PCD of 75mm give or take. I wondered if I would get away with fitting a collet chuck to the spindle directly as it has a register, however, there does not seem to be a 100mm collet chuck out there with a 52mm recess to fit.

I am fairly new to ME so maybe I am missing something obvious in sourcing what I need so I would appreciate advice or suggestions as to how I can get a collet fitted to my lathe.

Thanks in advance,

Tom

Edited By tom_tom_go on 18/10/2022 21:08:53

Edited By tom_tom_go on 18/10/2022 21:09:25

Even if I could fit the chassis into the dishwasher my wife would tear me a new one if I tried!

Thank you for all your responses, very helpful.

I have a 5" gauge loco that I have broken down to just the chassis and cylinders and would like to hear advice on how to clean before painting.

As the engine has been tested on steam a few times on my club track it is oily and greasy. White spirit is not cleaning the metal sufficiently as when I run my finger along the metal afterwards there is black dirt lingering.

I do own an air compressor with a cleaning gun so is there a detergent I can use to give the chassis a proper blast and scrub?

Thanks,

Tom

Does anyone know of available drawings or someone who can laser cut a squared saddle tank for a 5" gauge Sweet Pea loco please?

I am looking for a similar design tank to what is fitted to a Kerr Stuart Wren type loco.

Cheers,

Tom

I would like to remove the piston to inspect it to make sure the rod is not bent, however, despite removing the bolts securing the cylinder covers they are rock solid.

Do I have to damage the gaskets to prise them off?

Thanks for the prompt response.

I have tried placing various thickness of metal from a feeler gauge under the bar at the cylinder end but when I tighten the bolt the piston is hard to move.

Lossening the crosshead seems to help so I am wondering if the motion plate needs filing?

The chassis roles freely and the other piston is easy to pump so the issue is definitely with this side of the loco.

Hi,

I have recently purchased an unfinished Metre Maid (never steamed but hydraulic test passed) as my first 5" gauge loco and have identified that one of the cylinder pistons is stiff.

I have discovered that the piston will move freely when the con rod is disconnected, however, when the slide bar bolts are tightened up the piston movement stiffens.

If the bolts securing the slide bar are loose then the piston does move but it's not as smooth as with the bar completely removed.

I would be grateful if anyone could advise on further fault finding ideas as I can't seem to get a smooth setup.

Cheers,

Tom