Member postings for Chris TickTock

Michael that is interesting. I use an intermediate HSS cutter to 'hogg out' but this is just a simple pointed type. How does he get the radius on the HSS as I was told it isn't machinable on the Sherline apart from grinding? You may well have a point on silver steel being variable, I am pretty sure I am hardening it correctly but the tip does not hold up for long. I note on the clock forum another person following the same method as I has had the same issue with the nib disappearing. The real positive when you struggle is that hopefully you learn. In this case a lot of struggling and plenty of learning.

Chris

Bob, I have learned that I can make a pinion hopefully next time a whole lot easier than this one. I have heard of using the lathe and will look into it. I also found your remarks on the old boys making pinions interesting. Often there are still tricks of the trade you can learn from. Also there must be many tricks of the trade kept quiet for fear of ridicule but nonetheless work. I am beginning to get a few of my own.

Chris

Useful to me Dave as yet I was not aware different speed requirements per size end mill. Something else for me to learn.

Chris

Hi Guys,

After extensive time and effort I can machine on my Sherline mill a pinion with my home made cutter, the cutter made from silver steel then hardened and tempered.

The big but is it is very time consuming easily prone to error, and unless you use a slitting saw first the chances are your cutter will wear out half way...and this was all on EN1A. This method is supposed to work on silver steel, in theory it does as it is possible but my experience to date is when it comes to making a pinion home made cutters may not be the best route. in fact I would go pinion wire, commercial cutter then home made cutter in that order.

Can you clock guys who have tried this give your experience on making a pinion.

Regards

Chris

Thanks Michael, yes rizlas might well be the answer.

Chris

Thanks Jason, backlash introduces error but you are obviously right . I guess the secret is to get as closs aspossible without actually touching.

Chris

Hi Guys,

When starting my Sherline mill with the mill end against the stock in the vice it will often lift the stock as soon as i start the mill in this position.

Any remedies, baring in mind putting the mill end against the stock is often a good idea to count turning of hand wheel.

Regards

Chris

I like this Clive, thanks and thanks to all for posting

Chris

Hi Guys,

I am thinking of making a cutter for experimental reasons. The issue is the cutter has to be made from silver steel which after machining is hardened and tempered. But the tip of the cutter is reduced to 2mm wide and a 1mm half diameter milled into it. The 1mm is the issue I think but as I don't have a 1mm yet don't know so am asking. The depth of metal at the tip will be roughly 3mm.

The cutter is designed to round edges on steel...whether it will work or not don't worry about that as it is as I said an experiment. But can I mill the 1mm half Dia, if not is there an alternative way.

Regards

Chris

Hi Guys,

Is there any easy to remember way of knowing if I turn the respective hand wheels on a Mill's X, Y & Z axis the stock moves right or left or the Z axis goes up or down etc.

It is all to easy to turn a wheel the wrong way. If there is any thing fine else I will just make a table to glance at should I have a senior moment.

Chris

It appears the use of compressed air in a workshop has a divided following. If we all agreed I would worry.

Certainly blowing metal into an operatives face is stupid. But others are arguing it's paranoia not to use air to clean a machine. My guess is there are viable uses and stupid uses. Just use common sense is the stance I am most comfortable with. I note Sandvik suggest cleaning insert seats with air....there must be many uses, but wear goggles.

Chris

Your posts have been a great help...thank you.

What I personally have taken on board from the posts or implications from the posts is:

1: Where safety goggles when using

2: For my requirements the Bambi seems appropriate, I will buy as I find one.

Regards to all

Chris

Hi Guys,

This is a somewhat crude question but for me worthy to ask as you sometimes get a suprise answer.

I am practicing making pinions at the moment and think I have more or less got it. However my cutter that I made from silver steel  is not good enough in terms of profile.

So as I hardened then tempered it are there any weakening implications to annealing again then milling then treating (hardening and tempering) again.

Chris

Edited By Chris TickTock on 15/09/2020 09:30:22

Hi Guys,

This is one of those tools sometimes I could do with for blowing out bits of crud from tools etc.

Anyone recommend a small, quiet compressor for occasional use

Chris

Howard,

Great minds think alike, that is what my Decorating business prepares our customers with before we start (Ha Ha!)

Chris

Thanks for posting everyone . So it's a choice between threading or aluminium rivets.

Regards to all

Chris

Hi Guys,

I need to join a piece of 1/4 inch thick aluminium to a 1/8th thick piece. I have no special welder. Also I do not want to risk bonding the pieces together as if it fails as it will be used on my mill it could be a hazard. Therefore solid rivets are my route, blots being ugly. I have gone for the solid countersunk type for looks. However what material in terms of the rivets is acceptable. The pieces are just a shield with no stress on them.

is steel, aluminium or brass my best bet?

I have read galvanic reaction( corrosion) will / could occur with steel but is this applicable to brass and in any case is this more of a theoretical consideration than practical.

Chris

Would really appreciate some photos Steve..thanks.

Chris

Yes I totally get that. The existing Y axis locking screw does tighten the mill. It stops according to some users movement from another machinists forum vibration but still makes turning the hand wheel too easy. So my thinking is if the existing hand wheel takes care off the vibration movement then the barrier to operator error is touching a wrong wheel may well be enough. My initial thinking was as you suggest of clamping the table but there still is likely to be a degree of take up of  movement so I wonder if that was going a tad too far.

Chris

Edited By Chris TickTock on 10/09/2020 18:19:15

Jason, it is difficult to stop absolutely any movement (I think that's what your saying), yes i agree. But if the hand wheel is moved clock wise and locked at that point by some means and the hand wheel is obstructed from accidental touching it should suffice. If the operator accidentally moves the hand wheel on the Sherline Mill it exerts a fair degree of force and any friction stop is likely to hamper movement but fail.

Chris