Member postings for Chris TickTock

Hi Guys, Firstly I have a Sherline Lathe which I wish to improve my very basic skills. From various places including this forum people have kindly offered advice on cutters, cutting fluid and suitable metal for cutting for particular jobs. My question is as I only have limited experience machinig brass should I buy the cheaper and softer mild steel to practice various cutting techniques with before using the desired metal (Silver steel). If I do is mild steel machinable as is or will it need tempering etc?

Kind Regards

Chris

Thanks Dave good informative post. I suspect that a digital caliper can as indeed a micrometer can be affected by the pressure put on either the thumb screw or the screw handle on the micrometer. The consensus from my clock experts and many here is that the way to go for precise work is the micrometer and this probably means a good brand. A cheaper brand made with softer steel or poor tolerances would not be reliable. Test lengths for micrometers are readily available I have found.

Chris

Thanks alot guys yes get the radius gauge is to see if you have made the radius correctly. Surely the gauges could be used to check the form tool msade as Jason's method is correct as well as testing the machined work is also correct.

Regards

Chris

Hi I have just bought 3 quality sets off Ebay for £10 delivered. having done that I have a small confession to make I get you can measure the radius of an object but can they be used to create a form cutter/

Chris

Great posts guys thanks

Chris

Bill any fool can rush in and as some posters stated the quality of some 'New' stuff is questionable. Yours might have been bargain of the year but it is better for anyone to know a bit more before buying something as I am sure you would agree.

Chris

Thanks Bill but at that point didn't know enough to make a decision.

Chris

Thanks Rob, its time to buy a set/

Chris

hi I was asking my Sherline parts supplier if he supplies various lathe cutters for metal including a radius cutter. He has responded with right hand , left hand and boring cutter but no radius cutter . He states it is better to grind your own and do I have a radius gauge.

my question is: What is a radius gauge?

regards

Chris

When buying a second hand quality micrometer is it crucial to get the bars and any setup keys with them as there are several on offer without such?

Thanks Michael, just crossing the t/s and dotting the i's.

Regards

Chris

Hi, am I right that no heat hardening is required for HSS tool blanks that are used to grind cutters for my Sherline lathe? Obviously just checking otherwise once ground they could be too soft?

regards

Chris

Hi, I am about to embark on some precision lathe work but can not rely upon my calipersto give reliable readings. Is this usual and if not can anyone recommend a good caliper?

Kind Regards

Chris

Thanks so much for all the replies I will chew over them and come back to you if there are any queries.

Regards

Chris

Hi, Whilst I recognise and have done some diy cutters on my grinding wheel I wish to put all my energies into improving my turning capabilities. I have a Sherline lathe that takes 1/4 cutters any pointers appreciated as to a good supplier? My only real interests are horology.

kind Regards

Chris Judd

Hi I intend to make a square broach on my Sherline lathe I think getting 2 or 3mm square tool steel could be a problem but I note I can get 2 and 3 mm square HSS steel. The big question is its suitability to be machined on my Sherline lathe and its suitability to be used to make such a tool. Any comments gentlemen?

Regards

Chris

Great reply I would add I may be thinking of using a toaster oven to temper my metal which is a scaled down version of how the big boys do it. Anyone who can make a clock out of wood deserves respect. When you buy metal let's say silver steel and I intended for arguments sake to use it to make a very small intricate piece would the hardening and tempering temperatures be given from the supplier?

Regards

Chris

hi guys I have also just found out w1 steel is more like case hardened steel and that the hardness is more on the surface than all through the metal. Therefore the safer option is using 01 steel. Obviously dependent on application.

Chris

Thank you yes everyone for truly great replies. Between these replies and my friends on the clock forum there is enough knowledge in my head now to state:

mild steel for brackets brackets

Silver steel (stubbs) or 01 or w1 tool steel most other things such as pivots, arbors etc

Do not use modern blue pivot steel as is inconsistent.

For fine, intricate work use silver steel hardened and tempered by bluing to get the right hardness first.

Anyone know why chromium is added?

Kind Regards

Chris

Hi, my hobby (ney obsession) is horology or clocks to those who speak plain English.I have bought a Sherline lathe and mill and intend improving my very basic skills.

Before doing any work I wish to know what metal to use for a particular purpose.

Can anyone tell me in simple terms when to use and why I should use mild steel, when to use 01 or w1(stubbs) tool steel and when to use silver steel.

I have googles but answers are convoluted.

Regards

Chris