Member postings for Chris TickTock

Thanks Mick,

I am as yet unsure as to depth but I tend to think the longer the metter interms of stability and diameters covered. Maybe a 60 degree spot drill or graver but still thinking and asking.

Chris

Hi Guys,

I need to drill a v shape into mild steel for a depthing tool i am making.

I would like the outer diameter to be approx 5mm tapering to a point so the v can hold a variety of arbor diameters when so adjusted.

Any ideas?

regards

Chris

Edited By Chris TickTock on 27/10/2020 17:14:43

Thanks Guys

I will poke around for ideas and then make one

Chris

Hi Guys,

There are various views on depthing tools. Some argue not needed others important. So I would initially like to see if there is a cheapish way forward iether making one or even buying one.

Any ideas?

Regards

Chris

wonderful and interesting posts gentlemen

Chris

Your not reading the same pages as me Michael, look at page 41 there is a picture with words below;

'Above picture shows the setup where I used the round nose cutting tool that I use for brass i.e. that cutting tool with no rake to machine the 1/4” diameter cylinder bob down to 1/8” diameter. This 1/8” cylinder bob will get inside the Exit Pallet Inside lock surface nicely.'

He is also clearly discussing a deadbeat of anchor design in relation to the cylinder boss.

Shall we just leave it as a don't know and say no more about it?

Chris

Yes Steve, that's my next port of call sourcing the little chaps.

Chris

Thank you Michael,

As you can see adding the site link did not help answering my question as to the cutting the bobs on a lathe, which is why i saw no point adding it. I am told by Jerry Kieffer that David was one of his students a few years ago and is very bright with good ideas, from what i see i agree.

Chris

Michael its very easy to be rude back but no.

Chris

If you type into google Levers David Morrow grinding oldtymesclockrepair

it should take you to a pdf link

Chris

Edited By Chris TickTock on 26/10/2020 13:42:01

Edited By Chris TickTock on 26/10/2020 13:45:20

Edited By Chris TickTock on 26/10/2020 13:46:28

No not secret at all the article I found online is in the public domain and I downloaded a file so it may take time finding it and that is something I am short of. I will try and find it later on (though why you cannot take some one's word on it is beyond me) again though as i say it does not say anything more in relation to him reducing the hard felt cylinder bobs than he used his round nose cutter with no top rake that he uses for brass. The reason for my post was i too like John wondered about the plausibility of cutting it on a lathe. I believe him just is a different material than I would think you usually cut on a lathe. I am also contacting him for further information. Nothing wrong with a new way of doing something..if it works.

Chris

The only details given are as I have stated Michael. I suppose I will wait till I have some and if needed have a go, providing the bob stays true it will work.

Chris

The reason that I ask is that I found online an article a clockmaker who does it using the same zero top rake round nose cutter he uses for brass. Felt being softer than metal the zero rake makes sense but as I have no hard felt cylinder bobs yet I have no idea. if it cuts evenly fine and of course the quality of the bob may prove to be all important.

Chris

Hi Guys,

One of the ways of finishing pallets on escapements suggested the use of hard felt cylinder bobs.

Can these be reduced on the lathe to get a reduced felt diameter?

I would be aiming for 3/32 Dia. Even if i can get that diameter I would still be interested if using a lathe the diameter can be reduced.

Regards

Chris

Good point with the pins Bob...cheers.

Chris

Thanks for this Bazyle, I missed the other pages at the bottom initially. Largely I agree with your take. all I would add is this;

On the standard deadbeat escape wheel providing you first understand how it works then you have a fair bit of leeway in the tooth design. Teeth slope forward (CW wheel) and a minimum of 6 degrees is recommended as Thornton's cutters. Equally to much forward slope can weaken the teeth so Wild recommends keeping this to under 10. Backslope on the teeth not critical again but too much may impair clearance during the run on lock, so ball park 18 to 21 degrees may be a good starting point. As usual Tooth witness (tip flat) should be there but small so I would go for 0.5 a degree.

Chris

Thanks Martin, I have this spreadsheet it does not explain any formula though. Obviosly there must be a limit on forward tilt of teeth as well as back slope. Circa 20 degrees forward slope is about the mark. Still on the case.

Chris

There is some but there is apparently a selection of shapes possible. Still need more detail to voice a more solid opinion. With triangular teeth certainly some science that could be used...that's as far as I have got. There appears to be a relationship between the number of teeth and the angles. I suspect many old clocks were made by rule of thumb. But even rule of thumb escapes me at present.

Chris

Edited By Chris TickTock on 23/10/2020 18:44:35

Hi Guys,

Currently trying to understand the deadbeat escapement. All is fine apart from none of my books appear to state any design criteria for the selection of the angles of the back slope and undercut for the teeth. Yes they all state they point forwards for an escapement going clock wise but it would be nice to understand how such angles are derived.

Any pointers gratefully recieved

Regards

Chris

Steady on Jason 10,000rpm on my Sherline??

Chris