Member postings for FullaFlava

Funny how the iPhone inverts the images!

Balls! That’s what I tried today, I wanted to scratch build a 90 deg ball valve:

Next time I’ll make some flanges and a spindle.

I find a round RCMT tipped tool gives a very good finish on brass with 3 added benefits:

1. If you set the tool holder just so you can face, turn and profile to most angles without adjustment.

2. If the tool gets dull or chipped rotate the tip so a fresh part of the edge is bearing on the work.

3. It’s a great radiusing tool.

I can’t remember if this mag base ever worked properly, I bought it at a show many years ago.

As you tighten the knob the co axial rods are squeezed outwards to push on the ball joints.

The upper one is loose no matter how I assemble it, it seems the rod is too short

Does anybody have a similar one I could compare to please

Not so much what I’ve done today but lately:

Made a 5c adapter for my myford legacy chucks so I can move them straight from the lathe to the dividing head.

Made a caddy to both help attachment of my magnifying light lens and keep the often used tailstock stuff and chuck keys

Made some sleeves so all my boring bars can all use the same tool holder

Knocked up a board to magnetically attach my tool holders to the collet door

Tidied my Spaniard and socket drawers

Still plenty to do

Al

Like many it seems, I have a VMC, mine is an older Warco version, which I’ve put a DRO on but I’d like to further upgrade to an inverter drive.

i also have a BCA Mk3 which I haven’t used for some time so am considering moving it on unless a job crops up it’s ideal for.

I did my apprenticeship driving Harrison M300s and compared every lathe ive used since to them.

I’ve had 2 Myford super sevens, first without, then with with a norton gearbox. Accurate and nice to use, but always felt they were underpowered and lacking rigidity. Neither had power cross feed either which I missed.

Now have a Taiwanese Hardinge HLV-H clone with DRO, it’s quite new to me and I’ve only had the opportunity to make a few bits and pieces but so far I like it a lot.

Gents,

As I mentioned in my newbie post, I work 2 months away at a time and am due home at the end of this month. I have been attempting to make over the course of many years a scratch built Bolton Triple to the Reeves plans.

As I have a new to me lathe I want to get going on some more, so during this time away I have been going over what I need to do; one of those is the matching set of worm and wheel for the reversing gear. I'm afraid I don't have the plans with me to give specifications.

So I have a lathe, a VMC mill, a dividing head, a bench grinder. I don't envision making the blanks or single point threading the worm wheel to be a problem unless my lathe won't do the pitch as I can grind the tool to the profile I need.

Will I need anything more esoteric than a gear cutter or do I need to enter into the realms of hobs plus who knows what and potential expense for a one off.

Would it be easier to either sub it out to someone who can or buy a set in if available? I would like to do it myself if possible.

Thanks

I must say I like it a lot; I’m not home until the end of July to post any pics but the work I’ve done on it so far makes life much easier.

For any that might be interested, it’s a Taiwanese clone of a Hardinge HLV-H, that has a 2 speed continuously variable spindle and a separate feed motor so that you can vary feed or surfacing whilst cutting. The work envelope isn’t huge but it’s plenty for myself and I have use of a Colchester Master 2500 if needed.

The cutting tool retract isn’t something I’ve used when screwcutting so far, as I always cut with the compound parallel to the bed so I can add sidecut. The more useful feature regarding threading apart from the Imperial/metric gearbox is the auto drop out of the feed when threading to a shoulder and not needing to wait for thread dial to come around as when you re-engage the feed the single tooth clutch picks the same point. This means that you can thread at a far higher speed, notionally according to the manual up to 1000 rpm.

Hi,

I can’t answer the OP without knowing what he might want to use or expect a 4 Jaw SC to give him that he doesn’t already have.

Something not yet mentioned in the thread as I can see, is the facility a 4J with soft jaws can give you to have no run out repeatability for small items that you can get exactly square in the Chuck without parallels, say for a second operation where you are machining the backside of a number of parted pieces to bring to thickness.

Obviously you can do this with a 3 Jaw with soft jaws also but it is much more difficult to measure the diameter when boring the soft jaws to size.

Greetings to the established members, new joiner here but not to engineering.

i have recently re-jigged my garage workshop around and reinvigorated my interest in making things. I’m prevaricating on building a stationary engine but like knocking stuff up and prototype a few things and make some tools and jigs for my buddy.

I have a new to me Cyclematic ctl 618 lathe replacing a Myford super 7, Warco VMC milling machine, small drill press, grinder, linisher and all the associated bits and pieces. My late father also willed me his workshop so I have the use of the equipment but not the skills for wood turning, thickness into, bandsawing and routing.

I work 2 month rotations as a yacht engineer and during my time away from work would like to join the discussions on various subjects to keep my mind in the game as it were.

I quite like the idea of 3D printing and wouldn’t mind dipping my toe in the water if I could decide on projects to make.

I look forward to chatting with you in due course.

Al