Member postings for Chris V

Many thanks again Howard.

Also thank you Not Done it Yet, yes I'm aware of those, I have one in fact.

I meant a way of holding taps & dies on the lathe fed carriage so the thread is cut under power at slow speed.

Right now this seems like a really good idea, say if you had to thread a long length of bar or tap a deep hole...but perhaps I'm wrong.

I think with the tailstock fixed the sliding holder would come apart if cutting a long thread..and would'nt hold a tap either, or am I again missing something..else (-:

Cheers

Chris.

Thanks so much again Hopper & Howard. I just had a look and I have 3x 65T, & one of each 40T, 30T, 20T, so possibly enough to get me going on a slow feed speed.

Two of these have the later key slot but as you suggest I could drill these. I'm wondering how many is a full set but that's for another day.

Slightly intrigued by the requirement to "maintain backlash", so far with regards to the cross slide Ive only learnt a little about ways to remove backlash with gib strips etc....never heard about maintaining it...Ive so much to learn!

Also wondering if someone has come up with a tap/die holder to fit on the sliding carriage ie for powered threading..along the lines of a travelling steady...?

Many thanks

Chris.

Hi Howard, many thanks for all that. I have all original pulleys now except for the motor one so will make one for that and see how I get on. I see I can buy cast iron round by the inch, might be a good intro to cutting that material before tackling the James Coombes. Thanks for all the other tips, particularly interesting one re using taps & dies under (slow) power feed.

It leads me to a further question as I only have maybe 5 gears, change wheels I think they are more properly called. Apart from using them to lathe cut threads, is the only other or at least main other use to change turning feed speeds?

I'm just wondering if I need to source and buy the missing ones right now, I don't see me cutting threads other than with tap & die for a long time, there's far too much to learn in far too little time available before then!

Cheers

Chris.

Thanks Graham, & Phil P. I can see the boring tool followed by the reamer covering all the bases, off to look see what a single point one looks like!

Thanks so much Hopper that's nice clear and simple, bit like me! I will start with a 2.5" pulley. One question, if I then did wish to play further down the line, if I reduced down in size to say 2.25" or even 2" would I end up with higher or lower lathe speeds?

Just this morning my wife joked about something to check the speed, made I larf when I read about the tachometer!

Cheers

Chris.

Out of curiosity IanT what is the outstanding H/W kit you have yet to build?

Cheers

Chris.

Thanks IanT & Vintage engineer, yes just been reading up about them...and looking at the Hemingway option.

First of all it seemed to me counter intuitive to allow the reamer to follow the hole, but with an old lathe like mine (ML1) and of course my lack of skill & experience I can particularly see why it would be useful. So possibly not the best idea for me to make my own such tool with what Ive got, or lack of.

Useful info though and thanks again, I may see if I can find one with a 1MT to buy at some point.

Cheers

Chris.

Thanks BobH & Andrew, off to look into floating reamer holders, something else Ive never heard of!!

Cheers

Chris.

THANK YOU Dave, thanks that's a great link, Cheers!

Ah ok, I can now see the way forward. I can turn either wood or brass on my wood lathe so can try as has been suggested several pulley sizes. Then assuming I stick with flat belts, source a cast iron pulley blank and turn it on the ML1 once its up and running.

Thank you all for your insights and help, much appreciated!

Thank you ALL so much for this info, the written answers and the links, most useful, helpful and enlightening!

Thanks Michael & Andrew Silly Old..., Ah great, that answers that then, more thinking to do, much appreciate your inputs on this!

Cheers

Chris.

Hi Michael & Pete, thanks for that.

Ok, I have a vee pulley for the motor already + new to me old 8" flat belt pulley on the countershaft.

Can I use a vee belt between them then? Sorry if i'm being dense!

But I still have no idea of what size.....

Thanks Michael, having just bought the 8" Myford FLAT belt pulley I wish to use a flat belt between it and the motor.

Its the size Id like guidance on and can I use brass if I choose to?

I appreciate a vee belt system is likely easier to set up but i'm looking to set the lathe up nearer to the original look.

Cheers.

Whats the difference between hand & machine reamers?

Having searched online I see plenty of both, the difference I can see is hand reamers have the square on the end to fit a tap holder.

I'm looking to buy some, maybe Dormer to help with work on a Stuart James Coombes.

I'm thinking if I buy hand reamers I can also use these in the lathe Myford ML1

& pillar drill at slow speeds. Am I missing something?

Thanks...

I have an electric motor 1425 RPM on the plate. An 8" dia flat belt pulley on the Myford bench top motor stand/counter shaft. Then flat belt pulleys from this to the 1930's ML1 that I am trying to resurrect and get going.

Looks like I will need to make a flat belt pulley for the motor, advise on what size should it be please? (I don't wish to change to vee belts).

Any reason the pulley should not be made of brass?

Thanks in advance.

Yes thank you KWIL, I think I saw that they do.....

Thank you Dave, more as a useful bit of kit than an exercise I think. If a ready made Martin M version turned up I'd have it. I could have used one for work this week!

Both are interesting links, though neither work for me. Yes I'm aware of the shipping and import duty and as you say if I mess up.......

I will keep on pondering! (-: I may order the drawings only to see what exactly is involved.

Cheers

Chris.

Thanks Brian, yes I'd seen that, for me on aesthetic grounds its if all else fails, I'd much rather have castings (-:

Thank you ega, yes I did mean the sawing & filing attachment. I have emailed them this afternoon but would also like views from anybody who has built one, and is cast iron (rather than mild steel )so important for a small machines table such as this.