Member postings for Bevel

Why do you think these chemicals are getting harder to purchase fellas? The cynic in me thinks its partly down to all these crazies living amongst us hell bent on earths destruction and another part thinks its possibly the snowflake elf + safety dominated society we live in. Be good to know what others think??

Brilliant guys, Andy's method very similar to mine but more technical. I have a fish tank heater set at 20 when it's cold and monitor the anodise bath with a thermometer to make sure it doesn't get too warm. I have ice on hand to introduce to an outer bath if it starts heating up. My dye is heated via an old electric camping stove which again I control with thermometer but I know where to set dials for a particular temp. Like Andy I seal in 90 degree water for ½ hour. Looks like I'm almost there but I will start using scotchbrite with detergent soap instead of my normal brush. Thanks chaps I learned a lot from this thread

Hi Andy,

I used to calculate area and use the 720 rule, back then I used a controllable power supply but my results were rubbish. I went back to my trusty old Wilko 5 amp battery charger and have much more success tbh.

Obviously I was doing something wrong and got confused with exactly how much surface area needed to be calculated. Say for instance we take the tube I mentioned, do I need to calculate the whole surface area for outer and inner dia's? Also when doing multiple parts do I say calculate whole area for one then times by number I intend to do in one hit? All got a bit confusing so I trialled and error and recorded results of Ines that can eout ok and used them as bench marks if that makes sense. Like I say crossing fingers lol

Ah yes the spring didn't think of that.

I wash the parts with washing liquid, dry them with kitchen towel, then in between each step I give them a brush off with individual brushes using de-io water. But after the anodise step I wash off with de-io which is slightly ph+ or ph- can't remember which as I read thats better. I also have water aerator set up in anodise bath to hopefully erradicate any sticking bubbles. I never handle components with bare hands either after washing

I presumed Fred's method involved using bulldog clips or the like made of aluminium rather than regular galvanised steel.

Peculiar that it doesn't work so well on the inside tho but its an amazing process and one I'm still trying to master. Its taking me an age mind you and I still get occasional 'white' spots on components where the dye hasn't quite taken.

Has me pulling my hair out, well it would have if I had any lol, frequently and I still have my fingers crossed every time I do it

Yep that'll do it, another great idea thx Fred

Yeah I get that, I'm not bothered tbh I only care about the outside but its not as simple as that is it lol, if only eh.

My only query with Davids method is, wouldn't you have to take the inside surface area of tube into consideration when it comes to time, current etc?

Both stirling ideas thanks chaps

Hi All,

Hope this query finds you all well.

Another question about anodising sorry but here goes. Want to anodise the outside dia of some 38mm tube only about 175mm long but stuck on how I'm going to attach the power? Thought about inserting a 'bung' down the inside but surely theres gotta be an easier better way to do it? Your suggestions would be gratefully accepted ladies and gents. TIA

I most certainly do Ian buddy

Afraid not Howard mate if it was that simple we wouldn't be discussing it lol.

That is what this is all about in first place I only have a limited number of gears and unfortunately 39T isn't one of them.

Thanks very much Dave, just ordered the aforementioned literature by Mr Cleeve

Back again

This is the illustration I have on my lathe, in charts quoted by your kind selves there are only 4 gears quoted when mine contains 5?

My understanding is z1 + z3 are drivers as they are transferring rotation onto other gears but where does this leave L as it transfers rotation to leadscrew?

Also never fully understood this one either, does it mean I can literally select any point on threading dial to cut these thread ranges? What does Mn relate to and is z =32T referring to the gear on end of leadscrew?

Aha the penny dropped, Nigel you were spot on with your calcs I have a 40T pinion.

Guys ALL your help is invaluable and very much appreciated.

I will get that book/books for sure and further my understanding. All these machines I have used for so many years and never given any thought to what was actually occuring within. Until now as you are all most probably aware it's been a simple case of following chart and selecting levers to correspond, and to be frank if Warco gave a better selection of change gears with their lathes then I most probably would never have looked any further.

Hats off to you gents, this knowledge will eventually wilt in the age of CNC and mores the pity cos once it's gone it won't return. Excuse my pesimism but I see it every day, young men today are not as skilled as previous generations gone by, not thru any fault of their own but via a massive leap forward in technology.

A massive thanks to you for taking time and explaining it all in such great detail.

Regards

Bevel

Holy Sh*t guys, technical overload!

Many thanks to you all for your input much appreciated.

Even tho I have a GCSE in mathematics and never been considered a dullard this is all completely over my head if I'm honest.

Ian T's computer program/ excel file formula sounds just the ticket but I'm lost there as he only lists 3 gears, where have the others gone lol?? How exactly do you set them up?

Nigel Graham 2 writes that this is just simple arithmetics but all this talk of drivers and driven, ratio's etc etc has my head swimming.

Must be simpler way to work out what I can achieve with what I have to hand and where I position everything surely.

Martin C my chart is slightly diifferent, I will take a pic and post it shortly

Still don't understand where the second combo of 30/60 comes from?

Sorry it's most probably so simple but I can't see correlation at all

Reason I asked the question in first place was yes I do have the chart and I know how to use it but the chart states the combination listed above.

Trouble is I don't have a 65T gear and I need to cut a 2mm pitch thread. I need to cut a M14X2 thread and have a finishing die but need a base thread first. Hence the query.

I asked a similar question previously and the forum answered in spades and allowed me to cut a thread of 1.5mm pitch with the change gears available to a close enough tolerance for job in hand.

With that much more experience now I would like to learn the reasoning behind the calculations enabling me, hopefully, to work out myself what is possible for future projects. Even tho I am time served some 30 years ago I have always had use of geared lathes so change gears are relatively new to me tbh.

Nigel, to answer your question the lathe is a Warco WM250v in English and it has a 40T pinion.

Ok guys many thanks for the advice, think a little browse for literature is called for eh Chris