Member postings for old mart

They are my first choice, I have bought bearings and seals from them. Most of their dealings will be with industry, speed and service is paramount, and they extend this to the private customers also.

I'm not familiar with that type, but I would remove the moving part of the topslide and see if the toolpost bolt could be removed from underneath. The three screws may also hold the bolt in as well as the ratchet in which case the use of a good fitting inpact screwdriver would be the best way. Trouble is that bolt projecting makes getting an impact screwdriver bit to fit may be a problem, not many are long enough to clear easily.

Its a bit big for a model, smaller splines than that are used on helicopters to transmit thousands of horsepower.

The hole is at 30 degrees, but the face shown is curved to match that radius, so both sets of figures are important.

 I cannot see where that curved face should end up relative to the rest of the drawing, somebody show me, please. Is it relative to the 5/8" dimension from the centre bore?

Edited By old mart on 10/07/2022 18:55:50

Edited By old mart on 10/07/2022 18:57:33

Don't forget to write 30 degrees on the drawing rather than relying on the obscure 3" rad and the 1.5" height.

It is not uncommon to use a large chuck to hold a smaller one directly to hold small stock. 80 or 100mm four jaws are not expensive to buy, and the loss of bed lenght is not often a problem with small work. If the large four jaw you have is mounted to a backplate, that plate could also accomodate a smaller chuck with only some extra drilled holes.

The Smart & Brown model A at the museum has a guard over the reverse switch to reduce the risk of error, I have only used it for threading 2.5mm trapezoidal nuts for the drill mill, and with left hand boring bars, having locked the chuck on the threaded spindle first. I wasn't sure about reversing an old machine like this and asked for advice on the forum before trying it. Reversing at low speeds without stopping first turned out to be a doddle, with no noises or vibrations as I had feared.

 The 2.5mm trapezoidal thread was easy to obtain as the idler gear was 125/127, the exact ratio to use with one of the imperial thread pitches. The first test was a failure, the nut would not screw on very far despite being made somewhat oversize. My mistake was as simple as changing from 125-127 to 127-125

Edited By old mart on 07/07/2022 21:01:34

I tried a reset by taking the batteries out and programming in the locality (Bristol) and after it picked up the time signal at mid day the fault persisted. It will be interesting to see what happens tomorrow with moonset.

The white unit is 10 years old and the black one is 5. In that 5 years, I have not seen this anomoly before.

There is no such time as 24:25 either in 12 or 24 hour formats. A day has only 24 hours.

Edited By old mart on 04/07/2022 21:37:53

I have two of the Lidl radio controlled clock/ basic weather stations. They get their signals from Frankfurt. One lives n the kitchen and the other lives in my bedroom. The time and sun/moon are syncronised, as is the outside temperature, sharing a single transmitter in the garden. The independent inside temperatures, air pressure and humidity have slight variations as you would expect from low end instruments.

I happened to notice a strange moon setting time on the black one which I have never seen before, while the white one has the expected time. There is an LCD fault in the sunset time in the white one which only shows when 20 and 21 are showing which is not what I am posting about.

The minute difference in the sunrise is strange, but the moonset of 24:25 is very unusual, what do you think?

Welcome to the forum Enrique, you will get lots of advice from the many horologists here.

The epoxy would be best for gluing the stone back on, but if it is contaminated with oil, then degreasing would be difficult.

Where would you obtain white metal, and is it ready to machine into bearings or is there the added complexity of making moulds and casting it?

Counter shafts are usually oiled manually, but you certainly can fit drip feed oilers if you want to and there is room.

Edited By old mart on 04/07/2022 18:21:10

You will almost definitely have to make new bearings yourself, the picture does not show whether the bearing clamp is single sided or not. There might be shims in the gap. The best metals to make bearings from are the phosphor bronzes or leaded gunmetal, not brass.

I was always told to stone the tips of drills used on brass to stop them dragging themselves into the work. Reducing the rake of a lathe tool by reducing the angle of the front face of the tip would have a similar result.

I recon it may be 1/4" Whitworth, the theoretical core is 0.186" but the 0.175" fitting easily is very close. If the machine is made in the USA, the thread may be 1/4" UNC which is very similar to Whitworth. Here are some thread charts from Motalia.

**LINK**

You might be lucky with Lathes UK, they sell several sizes of belting.

**LINK**

If one of the arms was extended and a rest like a wood working lathe was was fitted to the toolpost, it would be relatively safe to use in a lathe at low speeds, say 200 rpm or less. As long as it was kept away from the chuck, that is.