Member postings for old mart

Regarding the bearing sleeves fitted to the drive shaft, I would have turned the thickness of the large end down and fitted a larger diameter thrust washer of the same thickness before fitting the sleeves.

The lathe I use has a drawing for the shear pin in the manual, I have made a small quantity as they are waisted. When I was cutting a coarse ACME thread on the lathe which meant overdriving the gearing and big cuts, I bit the bullet and fitted a solid pin. the forces were great enough to cause a serious risk of the pin shearing during use from the forces and causing more damage that way. It was replaced with a standard pin as soon as possible.

I have often come close to buying one of the left hand digital calipers. One of these will make measuring on the lathe easier, and therefore potentially more accurate.                                                                                                                I have two Mitutoyo digital calipers, a 6", 150mm and a 12", 300mm, they are accurate, even good for 0.001" in bores, they are kept for best, and the cheap Lidl ones get normal use. For accuracy up to 150mm, I have micrometers.

Edited By old mart on 23/01/2020 20:39:23

I had no idea what the OD of the drive sleeve was, yours being 1" was a bit of luck, as the sleeves are easier to get. That and the availability of needle rollers to match the sleeves made the project an excellent upgrade. Your bearings are larger and heavier duty than the ones in the mill we have, and unless the smaller ones give trouble, I won't need to do the same mod, but it's nice to know that it can be done. I have found lots of shortcomings in the Tom Senior design and have addressed some of them, and I don't give a monkeys what the purists think. If I had found that a conversion to R8 spindle was not possible, I wouldn't have spent any money on it in the first place.

I have just thought of a possible problem with needle roller inner sleeves.

1. Getting sleeves that slide over the unworn part where the pulley fits. If you could, then one of the Loctite sleeve and bearing retainers would hold them.

2. If the OD of the spindle driving shaft has to be reduced, there may not be much wall thickness where the keyway is. If that was ok, there is now a problem with the bore of the pulley being too big.

If you have the means of producing a keyway, then a complete redesign of the spindle drive shaft is possible, and would be the best solution.

I noticed that Simon Williams has a lathe with enough swing to enlarge the bush hole. I could have also modified that hole, but only because of having access to another, working, mill.

 The two needle races in the museums machine are only held in a plain bore by friction, they are fitted from either end leaving a gap in the middle. So far, there have been no nasty noises to indicate they have walked, despite using a 1hp motor rather than the original 1/2hp one. Because of the extra power driving the R8 spindle, I milled a second flat on the shaft at 180 degrees to the original and have two drive grubscrews, with backup locking grubscrews in the pulley.

Edited By old mart on 23/01/2020 19:55:51

I might have recorded the needle roller bearing numbers somewhere, but I don't think it will help. This particular LV has a splined, not keyed spindle. Looking at the amount of metal surrounding the needle races, I would think that there was enough meat there to find some ball races. Simply Bearings have an easy to use bearing size finder, which I used to find the most suitable bottom spindle bearing for the MT2 to R8 conversion.

**LINK**

ER collet nuts have more than four recesses, but the single ended spanner of the right radius would still work. What diameter are they? They might have a left hand thread, look carefully at the bit of thread showing in the top nut.

Edited By old mart on 22/01/2020 21:27:57

The museum's light vertical has the needle rollers fitted, I removed them to be able to clean them better, they were not too tight a fit. There is a bronze washer at the top underneath the pulley, there was little wear on it as the weight of the shaft and pulley is not much. The bearings have been greased with common lithium yellow grease, as is the bronze thrust washer. The mill dates back to the 60's.

Four pages now.

As for a really clear distinction, there isn't one. There is no particular difference between the two names, the process is pretty much the same. Its a shame that the word solder was adopted instead of silver brazing. The solder process as far as I'm concerned employs an iron and lead based alloys and the only exception is in plumbing.

The argument could go on for 100 pages and still be no nearer to resolution.

In the UK, only coins which are current legal tender are protected by law. For example, the old 50p coins or pound coins are fair game for defacing.

If you can make a screw on cap for the hinge, you can try different friction materials. Occasionally there is a black very hard thin paper based card in the packing of certain products, a bit like fibre washers, that might work.

As already mentioned, exercise weights would be useful, and there are a lot of unwanted ones about. Whatever weight you use, make sure it is secure on the press, as they can fly off, I have witnessed it happen.

There are lots of small compressors with 25 litre recievers which would not only power models during testing, but also be very useful for a home shop airline and for blowing up your car tyres.

I believe the OP meant copper, not zinc in the coins. The old threepenny bits may have had a brass alloy.

The lighter wheels may have a sawtooth profile, not symmetrical like knurling wheels.

Difficult to actually size reamers, I did a lot of reaming to tight tolerances on aircraft parts. Different sizes are easily achieved with one reamer in holes of the same diameter and materials.

Ream dry, the largest size hole.

Wipe the reamer with an oily cloth and remove as much as possible, smaller hole.

Oil the hole and reamer well, smaller still.

There are other methods I would not want to talk about.

My only experience with electric welding was with sticks, the runs looked good until they were touched, it was 100% flux and 0% weld. I got on ok with gas though, oxy acetylene and welding / brazing / silver soldering are relatively easy. I've always fancied TIG.

Thanks, everybody, not knowing much about welding, the advice is appreciated, I now know it is not quite what I wanted.

It looks pretty.

I agree with Jeff's suggestion, why not just get a refurbished flywheel, probably with a ring gear shrunk on, then you will be able to start by bump starting, crank handle and electric start. You wont have to worry about the lathe or mill, the teeth might be flame hardened on the old flywheel.

I've just looked at the Lidl website, the welder is going to be on sale from Sunday. The pictures of the welder now show an entirely different machine. Now I understand why some members called the original one a plasma cutter. I couldn't quite see how the wire would get through the nozzle, which had a sharp bend in it.

Would the experts please now re evaluate the latest pictures and specifications and give a rough idea if it would be relatively easy to use compared to stick welding. I couldn't weld anything with sticks to save my life, but had no trouble with gas welding. I don't see any form of ability to convert to MIG, so maybe a MIG welder would be a better bet as it would also be able to use the flux cored wire as well.

Edited By old mart on 17/01/2020 19:47:23