Member postings for old mart

Rotogrip is a good firm, the gauge looks nice to me.

As already mentioned at least twice, the body looks like it is milled from solid rather than a casting which would suggest that it is a one off shop made item. In the days before cnc, it was much more cost affective to buy in batches of castings for finish machining than milling from solid.

When I was in aircraft engineering making parts for Airbus amongst others, we made lightweight brackets which were part of the undercarriage, they carried hydraulic and electrical lines. They were castings, and did not require much machining. However, it turned out to be cheaper to mill them out of solid rather than pay for the castings and £100 each for the mandatory X ray when the solid ones could be NDT tested in house. Only using CNC machinery could the saving be made, plus a lot of swarf, (about 90%, I would estimate).

I was surprised to find that the threads in the cast iron parts of the Smart & Brown model A were BSF rather than BSW. Tom Senior use BSW, except into the base which is a steel weldment. If there is room in the design and strength is important, then thread inserts like Helicoils are recommended.

I hope the postage was not extra.

It was a great day when we could take off the front number plates from our motorcycles and bin them.

I have seen an Alfa Romeo with the front number plate in the middle.

I cannot remember when I last saw a car without a front number plate, now I will be looking out for them.

Your plate is probably fine for 99% of applications, it will distort every time work is attached to it anyway.

I have just made one to fit the Atlas lathe we are doing up at the museum. I used the backplate of one of the chucks which came with the lathe. The chuck is scrap anyway. That got turned down on the Smart & Brown to 3" od ready for bolting to a faceplate which I had bought cheap on ebay. The 9" faceplate was cheap because it had a 1" X 10 thread and I was the only person interested in it. The faceplate was bored through 2" diameter and a 3" recess was made in the back for the backlpate to sit in. Using the rotary table on the mill, I drilled, tapped, and counterbored for 8 off 6mm SHCS and the halves were assembled with 620 Loctite. On the Atlas, it runs 0.002" tir on the face, and 0.001" radially. It may get a skin eventually when the Atlas gets powered up.

I found this information about the Speed 10 spindle:

**LINK**

Bristol must be getting it at the moment, there is one of those rare thunderstorms where the rumbles are continuous to the north of me at WSM. No rain so far and the outside temp is 27.2.

Edited By old mart on 12/08/2020 21:25:20

I checked the outside temp at 7 pm and it was 32.2, but now, at nearly 8:30 pm it is down to 27.9. Too hot for me.

Without that plug, this forum thread risks being closed instantly when the moderators hear of it.

NDIY, that Schnieder ATV12 costs £124.20 at the moment, it is 0.75Kw driving a 1hp motor. I would not call that excessively expensive, especislly compared with the price of a recently mentioned brand on this forum.

The only valid reason for buying a larger VFD than its associated motor is if you intend to fit a larger motor in the future. Otherwise it is just a waste of money. Spend the money on a good make from a reputable supplier who can supply user friendly installation and setting up instructions. If you don't do this, you will be running to this forum pleading for advise on how to get it working, and that advise will be as confusing as the instructions supplied with the VFD.

I will put it on the Home shop machinist, if anyone is interested.

Today, I submitted two threads of a humorous nature regarding a product on ebay which was in an entirely inappropriate heading. A link was included, and both threads disappeared after a few minutes. I didn't think that such links were prohibited, especially as a thread last week included details of an ebay item and survived for at least 8 replies.

You may find it easier to use the later parts with a new leadscrew and nut bought and modified.

Polyurethane varnish seems to be pretty good for resisting fuels and is tougher than most varnishes.

I would go for en19t, or en24t, they are stronger than en8 and machine well,

I noticed the JIS logo on the chuck, so that part could be Japanese.

Its a thing of beauty, at a guess, it is for milling or grinding flats on bolts. Whatever was machined was small enough to fit in the chuck.

I would love to buy it just to play with, but a little expensive for a toy.

Edited By old mart on 03/08/2020 14:09:29