Member postings for old mart

Welcome, Dave, you will find lots of help from members on this forum.

There will probably be only 2 wires incoming. You can juggle the ones on your side and eventually will find the right combination. You could also look at the colour of the wires coming into the box inside the house.

Get a 125mm Vertex, they have better quality control than some others, and are much cheaper than Bison or PB.

The two holes in the 6" Soba that I have exactly line up with the tee slots in the Tom Senior, but not the drill mill when the axis is horizontal. In addition, I have drilled and tapped the base to hold a small angle plate for extra stability with a three point holding system. The slot on the end shown in the second photo has been milled deeper to fit the 1/2 UNC tee slot fixings for the mill drill. It is not difficult to modify tooling to fit and work better, although some people with machine tools are terrified of doing so, as if actually using the machinery was a bad thing and painting and polishing it was all that was needed.

Having looked at your link, Michael, I would also warn those people with old electric drills about the state of the insulation of the wiring. I bought a Black & Decker D720, (the two speed with the metal body and 3/8" chuck) in the late sixties. About 20 years later, I had reason to unscrew the plate on the side of the handle and found the wiring insulation all cracking up. It got binned straight away and replaced by a plastic bodied double insulated one. There are lots of cherished old mains operated tools out there still in use, hopefully their earth connections are still good and the RCD's in use today will save somebodies life.

Rather slow in replying to this reply, but what I meant was that the government could have announced earlier than they did before the original end date for the lockdown. I did not mean that the date be extended.

Measuring threads usually gives smaller than nominal results.

The Vertex is a good chuck and not in the very expensive class like the others.

Although the thread pitch on all the threaded cutters is 20tpi, the size of the thread is the cutter shank size. That 6mm cutter will have a 6mm X 20tpi thread. I very much doubt if the taps would be available easily. All of the threaded shank cutters up to 16mm have the 20tpi thread, I cannot say whether the larger ones have the same pitch as I do not have any to check.

I would Loctite the 6mm into an extention to do the milling. Make the extention as large diameter as possible for stiffness and take light cuts.

It still makes no sense to me, doe's that female hex push the backplate spigot out of the hollow spindle? The pictures don't seem to show any threads, or the hex on the spigot end. Is it a taper fit?

There should not be any switch between the motor and a VFD.

The only time I would use a milling cutter in a drill chuck would be to produce a counterbore for a SHCS, there is no sideways force.

I think it will unscrew using the holes in the plate at the rear of the chuck. There should be no requirement for dismantling the whole thing just to get the chuck off. The chuck is obviously a rear mount and the heads of the screws holding it to the backplate should be just visible, probably countersunk ones like the others in the picture of the back.

My Soba 6" rotary table fits on the TS bed very well, lining up with the tee slots perfectly, they are very handy things at times and not so heavy.

If you end up selling the heavy one with the chuck, leave the chuck off when the buyer collects it. That one would fit a Bridgeport or bigger mill.

Edited By old mart on 03/12/2020 18:36:06

Whether climb milling is safe or not depends on the measured backlash in the movements and the experiance of the operator. Another factor is the stiffness of the movements. I climb mill using smaller depths of cut than conventional. The drill mill has a very stiff X movement but plenty of backlash, and the Tom Senior has a very free moving X axis, but the backlash is well controlled. The diameter of the cutter also matters, climb milling with a 6mm is subject to very much lower forces than if a 16mm cutter is used. Shell mills being larger diameter are to be treated with respect, I would not try more than 0.001", 0.025mm climb finishing with one.

Are you saying that your new powered Z axis motor will not cope with the weight of the dividing head?

Edited By old mart on 03/12/2020 16:42:42

Look down inside the chuck, there may be evidence of a screw thread that the plate at the rear of the chuck is attached to. The holes in the plate may well be for a C spanner.

The thing you must understand about these tools is that they are NOT for measuring. The length and angle of the probe used all affect the scale divisions on the dial. They are intended for adjusting the cylindrical work into alignment with the axis of the spindle and nothing else. As long as the needle does not move that is all that is required.

It never ceases to amaze me at how fast the human brain compensates for changes. I am long sighted in one eye and short sighted in the other. I can see without glasses and the image size, although out of focus matches eye for eye. If I hold up a pair of my glasses to look through them from arms length, the images are different size by a factor of 2. The instant I put the glasses on the images match.

I made some aluminium jaws for a 100mm Bison vice, they are waiting for a delicate job. Tufnol would also make good soft jaws.

The type of vice like the ARC versatile vice has a moving jaw which can end up out of parallel to the fixed jaw if the workpiece is held at one end of the jaws. In this case it would be better to produce a jaw fully finished except for the top, which is matched with the fixed jaw when the jaws are clamped together.

Edited By old mart on 02/12/2020 14:02:21

Parallels as jaws? They would be accurate enough, but could be difficult to drill and if there were any errors in the seating, they would just reproduce it.