Member postings for Morty

Hi Peter!

Thanks for the advice I am thinking about doing the side bed conversion, but I am getting the lathe back together to see how the land lies before doing it.

I have a quick ring around about a bed grind, looking at £5-600 mark, I think I might get away with the side guide setup.

I will check the spindle bearings out when I strip the headstock down,they feel alright but if I need to change them I will go for taper rollers, I have always used SKF or FAG bearings, never had a problem!

My S7 is fitted with the early clutch, I have been asked with the information on this and will again check it out when dismantled.

Again, many thanks for the advice!

Cheers, Pete

Hi Steve!

I'm nearly there now, just the back and bottom to do, I am not going to do the top of the cabinet or the underside of the tray as the paint is intact, and the inside will get a rub down and de-grease.

I'm using red oxide on the cabinet and tray and etch primer on any aluminium castings, will probably use hi build on castings as required.

Hi MichealG!

I hope that My ramblings and digital etchings will be of some use to some poor soul in the future!!

Thanks for looking in!

Cheers, Pete

Hi everyone!

Just a quick post, sorry about the lack of updates, still stripping the paint of the cabinet,slow going as I have a few neck problems that cause trouble with My arms, so the drill I am using for the stripping disc gets heavy quick and I'm can only do so much at a time!

Nearly there though, will post some pics in the week.

Take care and keep safe!

Cheers, Pete

Hi everyone!

Just a quick post, sorry about the lack of updates, still stripping the paint of the cabinet,slow going as I have a few neck problems that cause trouble with My arms, so the drill I am using for the stripping disc gets heavy quick and I'm can only do so much at a time!

Nearly there though, will post some pics in the week.

Take care and keep safe!

Cheers, Pete

Hi Peter!

Ah, the Birds Eye beef dinner....... If I remember You had to peel back the foil on one corner so the Yorkshire pudding could rise!!

Other much missed gems:-

Milk Tray bar, the corner with the lime cordial centre was always crushed and leaking

Cadbury Aztec bar

Cabana chocolate bar

I'm sure I can think of more..........

Oh, and My Dad cooking his Saturday breakfast on a white enameled plate (with the blue rim),consisted of sausage, bacon, plum toms, black pudding and a lump of cheese, shoved under the gas grill!I

We made a grill for the workshop at work consisted of an angle iron frame with legs, and a 2-bar electric fire Sat upside down on top, worked better than the one I've got at home now!

Neil, I'm DE14 born and bred, live in DE15 now, and work in DE13, I like to get about!

My Good Lady worked at Marmite for over 25 Years, They had'nt changed the recipie when She left, but it is different on export stuff.

Hungry now........

Cheers, Pete

Hi Roger!

+1 on the molotow paint pens, they also do a refill bottle that You can use through the airbrush,not cheap but I think a bit more resilient than Alclad 2 paints

https://www.cassart.co.uk/painting/spray-paints/molotow/molotow-liquid-chrome-marker.htm

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BJZ72_TGXpE

https://www.alclad2-online.co.uk/product/alclad-ii-chrome-for-plastic-alc107/

Hi Everyone!

Just bought My Super 7 last year, and I am making use of the Lockdown to strip and refurbish it, link below:-

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=155128

Cheers, Pete

Hi there!

Mike:- Thanks for the information on the motor mounting, I had not come across this style of mounting on the various Myford S7's that I have seen, so it was a bit of a puzzle, thanks for the explaination!

Pete:- Thank You for taking the time to post this very useful information, I will look into the articles in the MEW index, seems a very good source for delving into the inspection / rectification involved.

I will go back over the measurements again, I have been made aware of the 'shaper' method which sounds interesting.

As I mentioned in My post, I will probably get the lathe back together and run to check the accuracy first, as removing the saddle for any rectification work that does not involve a bed grind is a fairly quick and straightforward job.

Again, many thanks to everybody for replying and advising Me on My Quest!!

Cheers, Pete

Hi there!

Werner:- Sorry, I did not see Your message until after I replied last night, I will Email You tomorrow!

Colin:- I did think of leaving it and overpainting it, but I was not sure if the new paint would react with the old, I like to go back to base metal if possible, plus there are rusty areas to sand out as well. The stripping wheel I have ordered should sort it out OK.

Hi John:- I will have a look at the gearbox a bit closer when I get to it, I did test run it before stripping the lathe down and it seemed quiet and smooth, but many thanks for letting Me know about Your repair, good to know it is possible as I did read that spares were not available for the earlier box. I also hope I don't need the info, but good to know!

Many thanks All! Cheers, Pete

Hi there!

Sorry for the lack of updates, stripping the cabinet etc. at the moment not a lot to see, raising blocks responded well to paint stripper and wire brush, but on the tray and cabinet the stripper had no effect! ( thinking of something a bit more invasive, such as a small tactical nuclear weapon!!  

Seriously, I've sent for a stripping disc which should arrive during next week!

Werner - It is nice to hear of the service that You received at Myford, good to hear that customers were looked after!

Looking at ideas at the moment to improve the bed (see below )

Dave - I will search out the articles You mentioned, well worth a look.

Steve - I had a look at Sven's videos before, He does go into the details really well!

I think I am going to clean up the bed for now and get it going again, what I was looking at was changing over to a wide guide set up as detailed in this thread:-

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=110700&p=1

This would be something I could do by just removing the saddle, but would need a miller (J.A. Radford's method),

so It would have to wait until the workshop is completely set up.I

Thanks for.the replies, I will put some progress pics up on the next posting.

Cheers, Pete

Edited By Morty on 18/04/2020 00:12:47

Hi there!

Now, where was I.........

Ah, yes, time to get the headstock off:-

Loosen capscrew on locking collar and remove, undo grubscrew in back gear and drift out quill to the right ( must get some new heads on My mallet, only had it 40 years..........

(Don't forget to catch the Woodruff keys.....)

60 Years of crud in there, but managed to find the 4 capscrews and remove them ( very tight! ), and lift the headstock clear:-

Bed wiped down for inspection and carefully lifted off and put to one side:-

A few 'manual' parting off marks on the top off bed but I have seen worse!

Wear variation measurements as follows (taken at 5 points along bed):-

1:- Total width across both bedways- 0.011 mm

2:- Horizontal width of rear bedway- 0.080 mm

3:- Horizontal width of front bedway- 0.006 mm

4:- Depth of vertical shear front of front bedway- 0.087 mm

5:- Depth of vertical shear rear of front beadway- 0.214 mm

6:- Depth of vertical shear front of rear bedway- 0.164 mm

7:- Depth of vertical shear rear of rear bedway- 0.064 mm

I am reading this as the worst wear is on the 2 inside vertical shears.

Not being very knowledgeable about these matters, could somebody set Me on the right track here as to whether the bed is in need of a regind or is it servicable?

(I'm not sure if all the above measurements are required, opinions vary, so I took them all anyway!

Next job is sort the rising blocks, drip tray, switch removal and clean up the cabinet ready for stripping / re-painting.

Thanks for looking in!

Cheers, Pete

Hi Steve!

Nice workshop You've got there!

Myford is looking sweet and the Tom is in really nice condition!

I've been doing My homework on the Tom Milling Machines, but I missed the fact that the 'light' does not have power 'X' feed?

The 'Light' is my prefered choice due to the fine downfeed, but they seem a bit thin on the ground compared to the M1.

I have also put on the possibles list a new Warco VMC, I would prefer an old British though!

Thanks for the info on building a control panel, filed away!

I'm looking at the Newton Tesla 1hp motor for the Myford, comes with the inverter all wired in, bit more money but would seem a logical choice for Myself!

Once again, many thanks for the help and advice, it is heartening that so many people are taking notice of My restoration, and the offers of help and advice are really humbling!

I'm putting another posting up next on the Myford.

Cheers, Pete

Hi there!

Found this one last week, loved it!!

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nQaAKUAzK0w

Cheers, Pete

Hi Everyone!

I have decided th fit a new 3 phase motor and control gear, it comes ready wired up so I reckon it will be nice and safe and an improvement over the original motor as well!

Cheers, Pete

Hi Jeremy!

It sounds like We are very much at the same place (At the beginning!!), but it sounds like You have done more 'swarf production' than Me!

I bought My first lathe last Year (Super 7), but health problems have prevented Me from getting on with things until now.

The present Lockdown has given Me the opportunity to strip My lathe down to clean it up, and I have started a thread about this ( latest posting just before Yours!), so I am hoping to get properly into turning later in thr Year.

I have built up a collection of 'Workshop Practice Series' books while I was laid up last Year, the first I bought was Number 34, Harold Hall's 'Lathework, A Complete Course' , available for about £6 online, and I found it a very interesting read.

Harold also has a very good Website of His own with lots of projects, and is also known to appear on the Forums here.

In it He covers getting going and also many projects that give a good grounding in producing useful tools for around the workshop, well worth a look!

I hope We have much fun in this great hobby, I'm really looking forward to joining in!

Keep Safe! Cheers, Pete

Hi Everyone!

Some more progress Today:-

Leadscrew released from captivity, this earlier box supports the end of the leadscrew, loosen the grubscrew to slide it through the driven gear:-

Apron could do with a bit of a clean (Someone made a Fruit Bowl?):-

Motor pulley came off alright, but missed one of the TWO grubscrews on the countershaft pulley boss ( Crack....Ebay!)

It might be able to be welded, I'll have a look....

This is the one I found.......

Motor mount plate released to swing down for better access and motor removed,it is a single Phase 1/2 hp not resilliant mounted:-

Gearbox is removed by taking off top plate to access two capscrews at top edge, and removing plug at the lower front of box gives access to a slotted screw that picks up one of the redundant leadscrew L/H bracket holes.

Packing strip at top recovered and put back on bed with screws to keep safe:-

Some views of removed gearbox, serial number ( stamped on top R/H side of casting under output gear cover(, shows it to be an early, early box:-

Think I will treat it to a new belt !:-

Motorising Unit removed, bolts screwed back in to headstock for safe-keeping:-

Tomorrow's job is spindle and headstock removal:-

Thanks for looking in!

Keep Safe, Cheers, Pete

Hi Simon!

Thanks for the info on the leadscrew, as You say it's a 'chicken and egg' problem when You have to repair Your lathe with no lathe!!

Before I stripped in down I checked for slop on the threads with the halfnuts engaged and did not feel any discernible movement, in fact I was quite surprised when I saw the wear!I

On the plus side, if I found it to be a problem when rebuilt, it's not a major job to take it out to replace it (now I know how!!)

I'm in Burton-on-Trent, Staffs, not a million miles away!

Thanks for the offer of help, it is very much appreciated, as You say at the moment I'm only going as far as the garage ( and the kettle!!)

It's nice to find someone with a similar vintage Myford, I've got a fondness for older machinary, I worked on 50's and 60's machinery at work when I was younger (I was a Fitter's Mate at Pirelli tyres in the 70's - 80's), so the machinery was similar technology)

I will be looking for a mill next, maybe a Tom........

Many thanks!

Cheers, Pete

Hi Mark and DMR!

If I did decide to use the original motor it would have had an overhaul/replacement, rewire and new switch etc, but I'm not sure if it would cost much less than fitting a new 3 phase motor etc., coupled with soft start and variable speed seems a worthwhile step.

Also I'm not sure how the motor is mounted yet, it does not appear to have mounting feet, it looks like it bolted to an aluminium plate through the motor casing!

I'll know more tomorrow when I remove it from the motorising unit.

I will have plenty of decisions to make as the job progresses, the way forward will include the motor.

I've decided that while the lathe is dismantled is an ideal time to make sure it gives Me good service for as long as need it.

All suggestions gratefully received as I am a newcomer to this wonderful hobby!

Many thanks, Cheers Pete

Hi there!

Hi V8Eng:- Rest assured I will not be powering it up again, I only run it up to see if the motor ran, and gearbox and clutch operation.

I would have preferred to keep it 'original ', ie new drum switch, single phase etc, but have decided for safety and ease of operation to fit a new 3 phase motor with VFD etc.

I appreciate the warning, many thanks.

Hi DMR :- I hav'nt checked My messages yet, I will go and have a look.

I would appreciate the manual into on the mk1 clutch, not an awful lot online about them, but I did pick up somewhere during research about the direction in which to remove the shaft but it did not elaborate too much.

I also read about reground here having a 'R' stamped after the restamped number, but I think this was on a Myford regrind.

I will be taking the motorising assembly and gearbox off tomorrow, then I will measure the bed up.

I hav'nt found a number on the gearbox yet to date it, I understand the 'Early' early boxes had unhardened gears, but I think they pre-date this year.

I will PM My email address to You, many thanks for the offer!

More pics tomorrow!

Many thanks both!

Cheers, Pete

Thread started:-

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=155128#2563566