Member postings for TerryB

Thanks John. I agree with that since mine has been apart a number of times and never gotten any weaker, although it is not as strong as would like it. It is pretty old, so I guess it has just got weaker over time.

I would also say that it would be good practice to leave it switched on with a plate on to preserve the magnetic strength.

I do find it strange that the manufacturer states that it will never lose magnetism?

Peter, there is a fundamental floor in the design of that first model. I made the same mistake on design.

When you build yours, make sure that the guide wheel (top wheel) moves through a horizontal arc to the belt.

I will post again with pics of my different designs and the pit falls.

This has been a burning question in my head for a long time? How can the magnetism be lost?

The fact that there is still oil in it is a good sign. As said, you need a sticky oil. If you don't want to strip it down,try draining out the current oil and then squirt in some 60 grade with it lying on it's back. Work the lever to get the oil in under the magnets. When you are not using it, store it upside down. The bottom side of the magnet pack should still be in good nick, since there is always oil there.

I have an Eclipse with the same warning on " do not dismantle" Taken mine apart a few times, to see if I can replace the magnet pack with neodymium magnets for better holding, but it works out very expensive due to the size.

You only need a small amount of oil if you plan on storing it upside down. Only enough to lubricate the pack.
Can only imagine that they fill them to the brim to ensure that both sides of the pack are always lubricated.

Hope this helps.

I build the 4x36 grinders on the side line for extra income. Personally I use a 100 x 915 grinder with a .75HP motor to build the big grinders.

It works a treat! I like the broad belt for squaring off the tubing corners. One of the most used machines in my shop.

The best part is that I don't have to use 3 phase or variable speed. Just switch on and go. The belt stays in line with minor adjustment. I use ceramic belts for roughing and then switch over to the Alu ox belts for finishing or finer work.

I can stall the machine with grinding big surfaces, but not easy, so I reacon a 1.1KW would work fine.

Personally, I would not go with a VFD. You do lose power and it is overkill and expensive. The only reason people use them is to start slow in getting the belt to run true. If you want I can upload a pic of mine.

If you build your own, just use a single phase motor with a 2 to 1 reduction on the pulleys or get a 2 pole motor that runs at 2800RPM and use equal size pulleys.

Thanks to all for the warm welcome.

I am a Toolmaker by trade and basically make and machine up anything I am able to. Have my own way of doing the tricky bits that many may laugh at, but it works for me☺

I love old machines, or anything old for that matter and restore whatever I can get my hands on.

I rebuilt a Land Rover Defender from the ground up in 2 years. I ride an old 1981 model R80G/S.

Attached is a pic of my small shop..

I'm moving on in age and starting to get my little machine shop up and running for the retirement years ahead.

I have a small shop, but growing steadily. My latest addition is an Excel No.3 die filer which I think will come in handy in the near future.

Not sure how to post images yet?