Here is a list of all the postings Chris R 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Silver steel or stainless? |
25/01/2019 12:21:52 |
Ole is 8.1mm ish When the rod is screwed in, hard up to its shoulder, it doesn't run true with its position in the hole, as you slide the cube. Rod is steel, btw. Edited By Chris R 1 on 25/01/2019 12:25:38 |
25/01/2019 12:19:42 |
Unfortunately there's no space for a flange, inside the casting. Edited By Chris R 1 on 25/01/2019 12:21:19 |
25/01/2019 11:51:00 |
It might break because the operator does it by grope while he peers elsewhere. Errm, the m3 ole in the cube holder isn't concentric with the ole in the red circle. (The cube holder runs along a dovetail track - which needs some light grease, where can I get something suitable? Not silicone - it wanders everywhere,) And there isn't a stub on the cube.
My wife would love you to pop in and pick up the microscope. I'm told it weighs 105kg. I don't think I'm that strong, but it was a bit of a grunt to get it upstairs (while she wasn't looking).
If you're interested in a commercial med application: Probably boring until the result at 1min 40 on. Auramine-Staining using Primo Star iLED - ZEISS Microscopy Lots of things fluoresce if you hit them with UV, You don't always need a stain. This chap uses it, without stains. Look for the pics with the funny colours: https://photos.app.goo.gl/MV9IynUtBdaKkVj53
Edited By Chris R 1 on 25/01/2019 12:04:02 |
25/01/2019 10:44:42 |
Not sure where you mean a sleeve. There's no space between the surface which has a circular depression in it, and the inside of the end which has the 1.25 sticker on it. Maybe 1mm - enough for a washer is about all. Maybe there was a washer or washer pair once, but there isn't much thread... On looking closer Tell you what, I've had an idea - why don't I drill and tap and cut off an HT screw and.....
By the way if you think that threaded bit looks bent, you're right, it is. |
25/01/2019 01:39:15 |
I'm not that confident the tailstock on the lathe will be very near the axis...
ANyway you asked for pictures: This is the bit of microscope, the one existing rod is in place, screwed in a the point arrowed. It IS steel of some sort that it goes into. As you can see the rod goes through a large hole. Quite why they break I don't know. It's moving a filter cube in the fluorescence illumination head of a 'scope. There are two filters and a dichroic mirror in the cube. You use light of wavelength X, which reflects through the objective lens onto the subject, which you preload with fluorophores which emit at a different wavelength Y. None of X gets up the eyepiece / camera, so you only see your excited bit of subject, emitting in its own colour. Then you use a different excitation wavelength and cube and different fluorophore, for a different bit of your subject. The light source is usually a mercury arc lamp, though LEDs are replacing them because they're made with a narrow colour bandwidth. Normally you tag a protein or drug or whatever so you can see where it's got to. You can tag cancer cells or TB cells, or things smaller than a wavelength of light. They emit so you know they're there. Here's a picture c/o Zeiss of a bit of gut, with ten different fluorophores and sets of cubes/filters.
Edited By Chris R 1 on 25/01/2019 01:46:02 Edited By Chris R 1 on 25/01/2019 01:49:03 |
24/01/2019 19:10:28 |
Posted by Howard Lewis on 24/01/2019 18:33:44:. ... Any chance of being able to make up and outrigger bearing for the rod? Er, sorry? Like a sleeve? It goes through a hole. I'd better take a picture... |
24/01/2019 19:00:54 |
I didn't expect so much discussion! The 303 rod is ordered via ebay.
FWIW I've never had a lot of faith in my abilities in ad-hoc handheld heat treating carbon steels, especially with thin sections. The guff about looking at the colour, tells you about the surface oxide, not much about the structure inside, unless it's under some specified conditions. Cut up you can see the effect you were after, but often not very deep into the thickness or not to the extent desired. I was a metallurgist once upon a time. It's OK for a fellow in a factory who does a thousand chisels a week...! Edited By Chris R 1 on 24/01/2019 19:01:33 |
24/01/2019 15:07:14 |
Woo, 6 answers, all a bit different! Thanks. I reckon I'll try 303, no relief, and a couple of washers to bridge over the unthreaded mm or two.. I don't think the stuff it's screwed in to is tough. Good idea to make 2 Maybe I ought to waist part of the unseen part of the rod down to 2.5mm so I don't get another bit of broken off thread to winkle out Edited By Chris R 1 on 24/01/2019 15:08:50 |
24/01/2019 11:59:51 |
..or either? I need to make a 3mm male thread about 5mm long on a 6mm rod. It's an actuator on a microscope. It (originally) had a knob on the other end - not really necessary. The rod is about 100mm long and not well supported, so the original threaded part tends to snap off. I have access to a small Chinese lathe in a makerspace, and dies. What's the best material for ease of working, + strength. How about 303 stainless? Thanks
|
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.