Member postings for Con Nicoll 1

Hi,

Citric acid causes mild steel to corrode on removal of items from solution. it appears that this can be avoided by:-

Total immersion for cleaning in solution. No part of item exposed to air.

Immediately rinsing in clean soap and water on removal.

questions:-

Suppliers recommendation is 20gms/ltr solution. Is this the minimum necessary for 100% solution?

Is 100% solution necessary to avoid corrosion of mild steel?

This appears to work but I'd like confirmation that my assumptions are correct.

How do I turn off them off? I am being inundated.

Hi Everyone,

Thank you for all your responses. I only have relatively small parts (3"x2"x3/4" to braze.

I have a blowtorch with a MAPP gas cylinder which I hope will do the job.

My thinking now is:

• Although more expensive silver solder has a lower melting point than other brazing alloys and flows more easily through the joint.
• Ensure a clearance of about 0.0015" in the joint. Best achieved by centre popping the mating surfaces and not overtightening the clamping pressure.
• Ensure absolute cleanliness in the joint. I have some Citric acid based cleaner.
• Use the correct flux. I have some easy flow flux and some silver solder.

I attended the Silver soldering lecture at the Fosse the other week. It was stated there you should mix the flux with water and washing up liquid before applying it to the job. Will the washing up liquid not contaminate the job?

Con Nicoll

There was an article a year or two ago in ME about fabricating a bogie for a 5 inch gauge Princess Coronation using silver solder. I think this was using mild steel plate.

Does any one know anything about what advantages silver solder has over other brazing alloys. In fact can anyone point me at any information on brazing mild steel.

I am fabricating a bogie "casting" for a 2.5 gauge tender. I would like some guidance.

Thank you in anticipation

Hi

I'm a rejoining member after a couple of years away lost to website, so I'll start again.

I have a small brickbuilt workshop which is lined with insulated flooring grade tongue and groove chipboard. This is infinitely preferable to the plasterboard some people use as it's not so liable to distortion due to damp. It also has the advantage that it is strong enough to take the weight of virtually anything you care to screw to it.

I have 3 machines, a Myford ML10 and a 4 inch Murad Antarctica lathe and a Chester Conquest chinese milling machine.

I would like to replace the milling machine with something a bit more civilised, it makes a terrible row,

I have fitted the ML10 with a variable speed (VSD) which I would highly recommend to anyone to fit. I would also like to fit one to the Murad.