Member postings for c wastell

Thats very interesting, thanks. I didn't know I could make them myself, I have a little bit of EN24T in stock. I don't mind buying them but I do object to the Euro22 postage plus the delay at customs.

Communicating with the Italian suppliers is a process best described as slightly wearing. They are friendly and helpful but oh, so Italian; I might get an email out of the blue in 10 days time, with the answer.

Hopper, What surprises me is that this company work mainly on "old" stuff back to the dawn of motoring so I'm disappointed to say the least, that they didn't take the attitude of "looser the better." The valve has a little pad on the end to take hanmmering from the rocker. Each time it sticks open, that pad is lost somewhere on the road. They have to come from Italy at euro5.73 but plus euro22 for post. Its like rubbing salt in the wound🥴

I'll see if some extra clearance solves it first. If it doesn't then yes, I'll have to shell out for a one off valve. Thing is, other people are buying these valves presumably and I've never heard of anyone having problems with them.

Thank you so much for all the replies, some good information there which is much appreciated. The Company concerned is South Cerney Engineering near `Swindon. They have an excellent reputation, working on the highest quality and rare vehicles so I took them at their word. I'm sure the chap doing the job said he'd opened the guide up to give .003". I've since found a Moto Guzzi chart from the period which recommends nearly .008" at max tolerance! So that's the first thing. Is there a way to tell if a valve stem is chrome plated? or is it obvious?

Incidentally, the inlet guide has an oil drilling for valve lubricant but the exhaust has to just get on with it.

Thanks again for the knowledgeable and informative replies.

I'm not sure if this is the best thread to ask but my problem is actually on a 1930s Moto Guzzi engine with exposed valves. I had new guides and valves professionally fitted in a cast iron cylinder head. Expert advice is that a stainless valve will 'pick up' in an iron guide so they fitted phosphor bronze guides. The exhaust valve stuck after 2 miles. The guide was reamed out to give more slack. this time it lasted 20 miles then stuck. Originally this engine had iron guides as they are self lubricating which the bronze ones are not. Any advice please? Thanks.

I had to order a new valve for Italy so at the same time ordered a replacement o/s valve guide. The supplier is a specialist only in these old Guzzis so I will be interested to see if the new guide is bronze or iron.

Thanks for all your knowledgeable replies, gents. You have convinced me to forget about a quick fix and go for the over-size guide. Unfortunately, all the spares have to come from Italy which complicates and slows down things down somewhat. I have a good engineering company, Cerney Engineering near Swindon, I would not attempt this myself.

I'm a pretty amateurish engineer (O level B) but a lot of what Triumph produced was way below standard. On the other hand, I reckon pre-war Guzzi engineering was very high quality and if Carlo thought bronze was best, that's good enough for me🙂

Sorry, I should have been more specific. Its a 500cc single cylinder motorbike. (1935 Moto Guzzi).

Unfortunately it is the exhaust. Do you mean knurl it then shrink fit?

Thanks for that, Michael. A few different opinions there. I appreciate the help👍

I have a cast iron head with a loose (sliding fit) bronze valve guide. Is the a way that it can be held in place? Is there a loctite product for instance? I don't want to go down the oversize guide route as I fear that will be opening up a whole can of worms

Not sure if this is the right place to ask but I have a wanted ad in the classifieds. I am now sorted but cannot see how to remove the ad. Any help please? Thanks

Thats all good gen. Many thanks. None of the motors shown is exactly like mine (which is matching grey! and looks original) but the diagrams make some sense to me. However I suddenly have a more pressing problem in that the resilient mounts have given up the ghost completely. I found a thread on here from 2013 but wonder if, since then, there is a supplier of these? How important is it that the motor has this flex?

Thanks for that further information, chaps. I wonder if I have got all the connections right, in that case. I don't have wiring diagram.

Steve, Screw cutting is the reason for wanting reverse but its not the end of the world.

I removed all the wires and a couple of posts were a little bit corroded. There is a sort of sprung pressed metal affair with a contact which locked quite dirty. I cleaned up everything I could find and lubed the armature (?) spindle at each end. Its all back together now and runs forwards but not in reverse. I have looked at the Dewhurst switch and it looks clean. At least It is useable. Thanks again for the advice.

Ah. I just put a meter point on each wire with the meter set to ohms.

having trouble uploading image but I have con tested the capacitor and it is open circuit.