Member postings for Kaleb Peart

So seemingly the rule of thumb is to have the axle boxes to be a harder metal then the horn blocks?

A question for everyone is the steel used for bogies and the Axle boxes what type of steel is best for them? Is regular black mild steel ok for them? Or would it be better to use a tool steel or such? Any information helps.

Regards, Kaleb

Hi Kerrin,

I noticed in the photo of the underside of your toby locomotive you've got the grinder head mounted straight onto the underside of the chassis. Do you have any problems with tension between the grinder head and that axle?

Regards, Kaleb

Hi Kerrin,
That sounds really interesting how much of can he pull? and sure photos of it all would help significantly!
cheers, Kaleb

Hi Ron,

The motor I'm planning on using is a 24v 500w DC motor with a overall length of 263mm and a width of 126mm. As I mentioned earlier Im basing the design of the locomotive from a 1954 Baldwin 0-4-4-0 diesel-electric switcher and so the sketches I'm working to means the width of the body (I'm unsure of exactly what to call the area but the other end of the locomotive opposite to the cab end) is only 150mm to scale so I can either use some smaller motors which will create more headaches or I can run that motor perpendicular to the axles and make that just run a driveshaft.

To clarify and save answering later, I plan on putting a 2-stroke motor in the cab area which will run a 24v alternator thus if I was to use a electric motor on each bogie it'd make things rather compact which is still doable but I feel as the driveshaft idea may be easier if I'm to get power to both bogies.

As for making the pivot movement so far the best I can come up with is using a hollow tube for the pivot then from the driveshaft putting a mitre gear (or the 90 degree angle grinder gearbox) over the centre of the pivot which would then run a shaft down the pivot to another mitre gear on the bogie which would then run parallel to the axles so then run a chain to the axles. I'm sure that could've been explained easier but I hope you get the idea, I haven't got the sketches with me currently so it makes explaining it a little difficult.
but the idea for running a shaft down the centre of the pivot point isn't concrete yet so if anyones got a better idea then be my guest,

Regards, Kaleb

Hi Ian,
Is it possible you could post a scan or a photo of that article in this thread?
Cheers

So since we're basically all in conclusion a single 24v 500w motor will do the trick then the problem just becomes I'll need to be mounting the motor perpendicular to the axle(s) due to size constraints. Aside from the possibly drive shaft idea as mentioned earlier, does anyone have any better ideas??

Also just like to say thanks to everyone for the help, the wealth of knowledge here is astounding!

The link to the SMEX Rolling Resistance calculator:

http://www.smex.net.au/Reference/RollingResistance02.php

Hi Ian,
I'm looking into where I can get that issue currently! Thank you

To Ron and Perko, my only wonder between 250w and 500w is which would be more economical on power having 4 x 250w or 2 x 500w or the same? I don't claim to be any kind of expert on electric motors after all. Assuming one 24v 500w motor gives out ~.65hp thus two would give out 1.3hp, if that can take about 10 passengers would that then mean only one 24v 500w motor can take about 5 passengers? If so then could that be an option due to my size constraints to only have one 24v 500w motor and just make that power both bogies through a driveshaft type construction even though that would complicate things significantly or even a 24v 750w motor with the same driveshaft concept? what do you guys think is that an option? or any better ideas?
cheers, Kaleb

Thanks Perko! ill definitely look into the book should be helpful! I'v tried looking over the ME magazines with small results which is why I thought best to ask here!

Hi ron,
I'm more or less trying to make a spin off of a Baldwin 0-4-4-0 diesel-electric switcher which also has twin axle bogies and is why I'm running into the problem of trying to do chain driven bogies since tight space and it'd be very difficult to do gears . As for power for now I'm thinking 24 volt system but due to the size of the locomotive Im still juggling what kind of motor to use since ideally I'd love to have the locomotive be as powerful as I can get it which is why I'm iffy about using several 24v x 250w scooter motors but beggars can't be choosy so its an option!

Hi Jeff, the only reason I didn't reply to the other thread I started was cause being new to the site I wasn't exactly sure how to reply to them as well living in a low service area made it difficult to send the replies though!

thanks all for the replies also!!

Hi all, just wondering if anyone has any technical drawings of chain driven bogies from a diesel electric/ electric locomotives in 5" or 7.25" and or if anyones made any and has any photos of how they did it?

Anything helps. cheers!

Hello to whom this may concern,
My name is kaleb I'm 19, Australian, and I'v been riding, driving and doing minor repairs on model locomotives for as long as I can remember. For some time I'v wanted a locomotive for myself and so I'm in the planning stages of a project to build my own locomotive from a kit ideally a Maid of Kent or a Boxhill kit in 5 inch gauge. Currently I have no machinery/tools to start the project however I am purchasing a small metal lathe in coming weeks. I'm a woodworker at heart so I'm no stranger to jumping into a project head first but I figure its best to get some advice on this first in this situation. I'd really love to know what tools are best to start off getting? What part of the kit is best to start building first? Basically just any advice that may help my situation?

kind regards, kaleb