Here is a list of all the postings gary arthur has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Vertical Boiler Fittings |
22/01/2019 17:26:07 |
I'm sure someone proved that laminar flow was impossible in 'our' sizes of boiler tube and steam flow rates. Neil Certainly if there is a scrunched up bit of metal stuck in the tube to negotiate... |
22/01/2019 12:59:20 |
The youtube version of the above post: |
20/01/2019 23:39:38 |
So, this evening I tested the two kerosene stoves: First then The blue Indian pressurising stove emerged as the winner. It's fierce, and almost up there with gas I'd say. It had the gauge up to 50 psi in 12 minutes and the safety valve blowing off in 15. It might do better yet with a bit of burner/boiler distance adjustment. It's also great fun to use and looks fabulous In contrast, the green 8-wicker didn't even have the needle off the peg in 15 minutes. It's a nice stove of a kind I haven't seen before, and it burns with a very hot flame but a flame of the wrong size and shape. Some fiddling with heights would help, but not enough I reckon. The steam blower made a considerable difference, pulling that soft flame into a neat cone which pushed the pressure up fairly quickly, but this revealed another problem: when the safety valve blew off the flame went out. Not sure why, but it did. That's a problem with this stove because the burner assembly is such that either it or the boiler would have to be removed to relight it. The pressurising one is much easier to relight because the burner is accessible. It will be very pleasant to use the 8-wick stove to cook a pot of couscous on the patio in France in the Summertime as the barbecue sizzles. So... thus far the promising contenders are the gas burner and the blue kerosene stove. The square pot stand on the stove will be cut off. I intend to use these two heat sources interchangeably. The idea is to have them both set at the same height so that they can be set in position without doing anything to the boiler. I also aim to make a cool-looking boiler stand and burner supports. However, the proof of the pudding will be in testing the setup out on an engine, so I'd better get on and start building one. Whether or not the boiler will run on coal assisted by the electric blower remains to be seen, and I intend to have a second go at making a firebox for it. I may do this in parallel with building my first engine, which I shall start once I have the DRO fitted to the mill. Edited By gary.a.ayres on 20/01/2019 23:40:46 |
19/01/2019 00:25:05 |
While waiting for a couple of items to arrive, I made a start on installling the DRO on my mill in preparation for starting on my first engine (which day draws constantly closer). Fixing the display with its bracket to a convenient storage unit made me feel good, and it looks pretty:
Unfortunately, though, it is attached to the mill's axes by nothing at all as yet and so remains decorative for the moment. That said, I did make a start on making the mounting brackets for the glass scales. Those of you who have been following this thread will know that the Lixada camping stove gas burner seemed to raise steam with the boiler quite effectively. While I will continue to use gas as an option, I am nevertheless in pursuit of a couple of funky alternatives. I received two contenders in the post today: In the green corner we have an eight-wick kerosene stove from China. It has a catalytic converter/secondary combustion chamber/whatever you want to call it. Although it is not a pressurised unit it vapourises the kerosene and generates a fiendish amount of heat. Unfortunately I took no photos. I did shoot some video but that comes later. It cost less than a tenner, including shipping. In the blue corner we have a pressurised kerosene stove all the way from India. £22.99 including P&P. It took me a couple of goes to get the hang of it. For those of you who are unfamiliar with these things, it's like an old-school Primus stove - the burner needs to be preheated. In this case I filed the'spirit trough' (hidden in photo by frame of stove) with methylated spirits and ignited it, thereby pre-heating the vapourising tubes and allowing the kerosene burner to kick in under pressure: This resulted in a seriously hot flame which rivals the gas burner and which I suspect will raise steam effectively: Assuming these two bad boys raise steam, they will be hacked and modified as final alternative heat sources for the boiler, which will be fun and allow for some creativity. However, I will wait until I try them on the boiler before chopping them up so that if they don't work they can always be used as stoves or repurposed for something else in the future. Either way, no great loss at the price. Trials with each of these under the boiler soon. Meanwhile, talking of stoves, be stunned by this guy's amazing skills: Edited By gary.a.ayres on 19/01/2019 00:28:46 Edited By gary.a.ayres on 19/01/2019 00:30:11 Edited By gary.a.ayres on 19/01/2019 00:30:59 Edited By gary.a.ayres on 19/01/2019 00:51:44 |
15/01/2019 13:21:06 |
Dave - Again very salient. I appreciate your alerting me to the danger of overheating. Just to be clear - I'm planning to investigate fuels other than gas not because I think they would give more heat, but because I'd like to have options - as much for aesthetic reasons as anything. The 'Lixada' camping gas burner certainly seems to deliver enough heat. Whether it delivers enough to risk damaging the boiler (assuming it hasn't boiled dry) I do not know, but yes - it would seem sensible to moderate the flame when possible. To me, this points to insulating the boiler (as you suggest), trying the twisted shim trick, keeping the gas flame a bit lower and ensuring that the water level is topped up. It also occurs to me that using a bit of steam blower might help, as it pulls the flame up the tubes rather than just letting it fry the bottom end cap, on the basis that this may allow a similar level of heat transfer with the burner turned down lower (i.e. a better distribution, requiring less heat). Any thoughts on this point would be appreciated. The boiler has now been fired to steam-raising pressures somewhere in the region of eight times. However, I do not wish to tempt providence, and shall keep an eye on these factors and on the condition of the boiler in general as you suggest. Will definitely keep updating the thread. Cheers, gary Edited By gary.a.ayres on 15/01/2019 13:22:43 |
15/01/2019 10:03:34 |
Duncan - thanks for this. I will try the twisted shim trick, as it may help but can be taken out again if it doesn't. That, combined with lagging the boiler, might add up to a significant improvement. However, I'm feeling quite optimistic at this point about its performance on gas. I also still have another couple of firing methods to explore using liquid fuel as well as redesigning the firebox and using a blower to try coal again. How successful these will be remains to be seen, but even if this thing only runs on gas it will not be a disaster. Rather than get too involved in measuring its output and consumption, I now plan to start with the 12 mm oscillator (which will be my first engine) as soon as I have fitted the DRO to my mill, and see how the boiler performs with that under various conditions. Proof of the pudding! If it runs easily I'll go on to make a bigger engine. |
14/01/2019 23:01:56 |
This evening I decided to actually try running the boiler rather than just heat it up and gaze at it in stupified awe while it did its thing. |
14/01/2019 14:00:12 |
Thank you both, gentlemen. I feel a bit relieved now I will prioritise the insulation aspect. Was thinking of using a skin of shiny aluminium sheet instead of wooden strips over the fibreglass insulation, just for a 'different' kind of look, but I agree - cosmetic considerations can be addressed later on. I think you are right about starting with the 12 mm oscillator. If the boiler does turn out to be a bit of a lame duck, I'd rather have a 'to-scale' minor success than an upscaled failure! And if it runs the 12mm well, then I can always go bigger as you both say. The Pottymill is on my list, as it happens. Your input is much appreciated |
14/01/2019 11:52:56 |
Uh-oh... Dave, your message is sobering but important, and so is appreciated. Funnily enough, I was wondering about this only this morning. Following Neil's comment above and similar from another member, I already have my eye on this: https://www.glrkennions.co.uk/boiler-lagging.html I was going to leave it until later but I think it has just jumped the queue! I was aware that lagging is important, but perhaps not just how important it is. I guess I could just tie it on with wire in the first instance. On your point about the heat escaping up the chimney - would it be helpful to put a twist of copper down the chimney (or the central fire tube)? I understand that can help sometimes... I should reiterate that on my only testing on the gas burner thus far it certainly boiled (as it did on meths, though more slowly), and I had no sense that it was running out of steam before I shut it down. It seemed pretty fierce to me when the safety valve blew off, and afterwards. However, the real test will be with an engine, as you suggest. I have not yet made an engine, but am thinking I should now get started on a simple single-acting oscillator to gain much-needed experience and test the boiler. Again, I was going to leave this until I have developed the boiler further but perhaps again I should shift focus. I have my eye on this version: http://www.steves-workshop.co.uk/steammodels/simpleoscil/simpleoscil.htm It's 12 mm bore. My plan was to build it double size but if the viability of the boiler is really in doubt, I'm wondering if I should stick to 12 mm in the first instance. Any thoughts on this question would be most welcome.
Edited By gary.a.ayres on 14/01/2019 11:58:28 Edited By gary.a.ayres on 14/01/2019 12:00:53 Edited By gary.a.ayres on 14/01/2019 12:01:39 |
14/01/2019 00:02:53 |
I tried the boiler on my gas burner for the first time. I removed the pot stand from the stove burner and set the latter up temporarily on some bits of round stock. Way more powerful than the meths was, as expected - it blew off the safety valve in 15 minutes and I'm pretty sure it would have been much quicker than that if I had turned the flame up higher. It maintained a steady jet of steam from the steam out valve, and I noticed that when I opened the steam blower just to try it, it pulled the flame up into the tubes quite dramatically. However, I think I gave it too much blower as the whole thing went a bit out of control and started to splutter water, at which point I turned off the gas and let it cool down. Overall, though, looking good, and the colour of those flames is to die for:
![]() Meanwhile, in preparation for my next try with coal, I bought this after a fellow forum member kindly drew my attention to it:
![]() It's a quality little piece of British engineering from the 1970's - a cooling fan for some piece of equipment on a plane, possibly military. It appears they are quite often used as blowers. It has the kind of motor which doesn't reverse direction when the polarity of the wires is changed round, so the suction tube has to cover the fan rather than connect to the nozzle. Fortunately I had a copper plumbing reducer which wedges pretty snugly between the three housing screws. Here it is jury-rigged; I think a bit of metallic tape and/or heatproof sealant will suffice to see it working:
![]() Having been given feedback that my last firebox for coal was too wide and not sealed enough, I got started on making a leaner, tighter one:
![]() I am now by no means certain that this boiler - which is 3 inches in diameter with only five tubes - will run on coal (or wood or charcoal). In fact I'd say it's touch and go. But it's worth one more try...
Meanwhile - as I want to end up with a few options for firing - I'm waiting for a couple of things to arrive which will further my adventures with liquid fuel...
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08/01/2019 23:00:54 |
My multifuel adventures continue. |
08/01/2019 10:24:23 |
Neil - yes, I'm sure it will. Cheers. |
08/01/2019 00:58:22 |
Hi Duncan - Yes, I haven't tried the Trangia on a pan of water, but I believe it should boil one in about 15 minutes. I guess it's the all-important psi of steam pressure that makes the difference here. I'm new to this, but I'm guessing it could have had a small engine running quite a bit sooner than 50 minutes. Many thanks for your kind offer, but I have ordered a gas burner that cost eleven quid and is already on its way. The plan is to have fun customizing it. I suspect it will fire up this boiler pretty fast. I have also ordered an eight-wick kerosene camping stove to try, but I think the ring might be too big. At a tenner, though, it's a risk worth taking. I'll find out when it arrives. At the moment I'm just trying out different firing methods with a view to ending up with a few interchangeable options/burners. I'm drawn to simplicity (e.g. meths rather than pressurized gas containers, etc.), but have come to realise the need to be practical. It took me a while... Cheers, gary
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07/01/2019 23:31:27 |
Following my unsuccessful attempt (details above) to raise steam with the Trangia in a partially enclosed housing, I made a new trial setup which is wide open in structure and tested it this evening. I decided to simply fire it and wait and see if it would get the safety valve to blow off. This evening, the Trangia slowly but surely raised steam. It took 50 minutes from cold and just over one fill of the burner with alcohol to blow off the valve without using the steam blower. The suppliers of the valve told me it was rated at 45 psi, but the gauge showed closer to 70 by the time it blew. How accurate the gauge is I do not know. I then played around with the steam blower for a bit and enjoyed the definite way in which it pulled at the flame. The Trangia throws out less heat than my crude four-wick burner but it burns in a much cleaner and more controlled way. |
05/01/2019 10:59:30 |
Hi Paul - I have never been given to living the high wild life either... well, not huddled round a Trangia at least You may be right - I'll find out when I test the Trangia in a more open setup where there will be plenty of airflow. My crude four wick burner does the job in any case, though the flames seem a bit out of control. Thanks for your suggestion - while I was following it up I came across this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/SODIAL-Universal-Outdoor-Kerosene-Camping/dp/B079DLNGSR/ref=pd_sbs_200_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B079DLNGSR&pd_rd_r=c42a1a25-10d6-11e9-9db3-5db3b63ef36d&pd_rd_w=oEhgG&pd_rd_wg=f8Nfy&pf_rd_p=18edf98b-139a-41ee-bb40-d725dd59d1d3&pf_rd_r=X4RRWY2BEGHHST4X8W60&psc=1&refRID=X4RRWY2BEGHHST4X8W60 I know it's not the same as what you suggested but at that price it's definitely worth a try with a couple of modifications, so I bought it. If it doesn't put out enough heat it will still give me plenty of bits to play around with. Will report back here in due course. Thanks again. Edited By gary.a.ayres on 05/01/2019 11:00:25 |
05/01/2019 00:30:39 |
Well... I tested the above arrangement today, only to find that the setup would raise but a meagre amount of steam. Not enough though! |
02/01/2019 22:19:49 |
I was unhappy with the number of flutes in the column of the burner plinth I made yesterday so I made a new one with 12 divisions instead of 8. However, while I'm pleased with the overall look, there are still a couple of aspects of that plinth I'm still not overjoyed with, including the standard of milling of the flutes, which I know I can make a better job of. I might redo this part yet again, but I'm going to test it for optimum burner height before I do. Edited By gary.a.ayres on 02/01/2019 22:54:37 |
01/01/2019 23:09:54 |
Continued with the meths burner housing today. Drilling the fixing holes for the base: I'm liking my new transfer punches: The various components - the housing, the burner plinth and the Trangia alcohol burner. The ductile cast iron water pipe end which forms the main body is lined with a tough plastic material. I like the blue colour, which I think goes nicely with the brass base and aluminium plinth, so I decided to keep it. There's a fair chance it will start to melt or scorch from the heat and need some attention, but I'll cross that bridge if and when I come to it. The exterior was painted with black stove paint : Almost complete now - I just need to fix the various components together: Here it is with the boiler in situ. I tested the setup a few evenings ago with a jury-rigged version which was almost identical in principle, so I see no reason why it shouldn't work. However, if the height of the burner needs to be changed, the plinth can be adjusted, and if it needs more air, holes can be drilled in the housing. Hope to have it all fixed together and tested sometime over next weekend: gary |
01/01/2019 01:23:08 |
Currently working on the housing for the Trangia meths burner. I cut the flared end off a ductile cast iron water pipe and faced the cut end: Twenty minutes with an angle grinder and five million years with a file... ...plus spotting through the holes in the end cap from the old solid fuel firebox using my new transfer punches, and drilling and tapping resulted in this: Beginning machining a slab of brass for the base (and showing off my Christmas present): And that's it until tomorrow. Not too bad a day's work I reckon. |
29/12/2018 18:07:16 |
To cut a very long story short: I tried every which way I could think of (apart from using an electric blower) and just could not get the boiler to consistently raise steam on solid fuel. I got pretty close yesterday, and the steam blower worked spectacularly, but I tried all afternoon again today and couldn't repeat that. As Peter (aka Gas_mantle) thought from the outset, this boiler is probably too small and has too few tubes to be a realistic proposition on solid fuel. He has nevertheless been very supportive of my efforts with this and has given me much useful advice on the basis that I wanted to give solid fuel firing my best shot. So... time to draw a line and switch to meths. More to follow... Edited By gary.a.ayres on 29/12/2018 18:47:46 |
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