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Member postings for Sunny Singh

Here is a list of all the postings Sunny Singh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Removing Jacobs 36B chuck and arbor
21/03/2018 23:19:13
Posted by V8Eng on 21/03/2018 22:51:59:

Do not forget to cover anything up where you do not want the fluid to get, hope I’m not being over simplistic but the stuff is designed to get into everywhere!

I should perhaps of said a squirt or brush on rather than a spray as well.

Good luck with it all.

Cheers. I've got a can of WD40 fast release that I'll try before trying anything else. Will look into non spray stuff if it comes to that.

21/03/2018 22:43:31
Posted by V8Eng on 21/03/2018 22:39:25:

Have you tried giving it a spray of penetrating fluid then leaving that to soak into the thread/taper areas for a few days before trying to shift the chuck?

My personal choice used to be “Plus Gas Formula A” (other products are available) for something generally well rusted.

I think that's exactly what I'll do! I don't think the drill's been used for years - it took a lot of force just to open the chuck's jaws, and even then everything was really stiff.

21/03/2018 22:05:43

Hi Rod,

Here's a close-up of the chuck, which has some numbers you can make out:

21/03/2018 20:33:18
Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 21/03/2018 20:22:27:

This thread suggests that the Progess has both an internal 1mt and an external Jacob's 6 taper. The OP has only said that it looks like a 36B, which seems to be a threaded chuck, and seems unlikely on this drill. Jacob's chucks usually say what taper they are on the chuck so a closer look under the rust my reveal the truth. If it is a taper fitting then a pair of wedges between the knurled ring and the top of the chuck should get it off.

HTH,

Rod

Hi Rod, I think that's an older Elliot. Mine might be a Mk 2, and according to

http://www.lathes.co.uk/progress-drills/page5.html

It says that on Mk 2 versions, "In addition to the usual pair of deep-groove ball raves, the 4-inch travel spindle was equipped with a separate thrust race and - possibly uniquely - its nose formed with both a Jacobs No. 6 taper to mount a drill chuck and, in a short extension, a No. 1 Morse taper with a knock-out slot. However, on later 8-slot table machines this unusual arrangement was dropped and just the Jacobs taper provided"

Does that make sense with what we see in the picture?

21/03/2018 20:25:59
Posted by Clive Brown 1 on 21/03/2018 19:43:10:

I thought that the B in 36B indicated a thread mount, but I'm not certain. If so, lock the spindle by means of the slots and unscrew, r/h thread. Might be tight though!

A steel rod in one of the key holes and a tap with a mallet might help, within reason.

Hi Clive, yes, I've also read that the 'B' means tapered threaded

I'll stick a rod/screwdriver in the key hole to stop the spindle turning, and lock an allen key into the chuck, and hit the end of the allen key with a mallet to hopefully get the chuck turning....

Edited By Sunny Singh on 21/03/2018 20:27:19

21/03/2018 19:19:49

Hi all,

I've got what looks like a Jacobs 36B chuck on an Elliott progress, and I don't know how to get it, and the arbor, off the spindle. I'm a noob, so I don't know what I'm looking at, and where I should be using drifts or wedges. Here are the images:

Here's a shot through the chuck, with the jaws open. There's no screw inside, and you can see right through to the oval-shaped hole in the above image:

So what tools do I need, and how do I dismantle this stuff!

Cheers!

Thread: Dismantling an Elliott Progress drill
10/03/2018 17:39:28
Posted by Brian Wood on 10/03/2018 17:20:25:

I would try knocking the column out from the bottom, with liberal applications of easing oil as well, A good weight hammer and solid block of wood to stop bruising the metal should push it out far enough to clean up the rusty top which you should then be able to push back out as you expected

Thanks Brian, I'll probably give that a go before attempting to put the column back into the pedestal, like others have suggested

10/03/2018 15:47:29
Posted by Ian Parkin on 10/03/2018 15:22:05:

It may be best to put it back on its base and stand verticle and dribble penetrating oil from above and then stand on the base whilst twisting...once it twists it’ll lift off

I think I'll try some WD40 Fast Release from the top then, and where those holding wedges were. I'll try it as is first - not looking forward to lifting it back onto the pedestal... indecision

10/03/2018 15:46:48
Posted by Ian Parkin on 10/03/2018 15:22:05:

It may be best to put it back on its base and stand verticle and dribble penetrating oil from above and then stand on the base whilst twisting...once it twists it’ll lift off

I think I'll try some WD40 Fast Release from the top then, and where those holding wedges were. I'll try it as is first - not looking forward to lifting it back onto the pedestal... indecision

10/03/2018 14:36:25
Posted by Ian Parkin on 10/03/2018 12:50:38:

Put the bolt back in but dont tighten it...give it a tap with a hammer and that should push the nut away from the column.

then twist the head on the column to break any rust.use penetrating oil ( plus gas is my fave) if it wont twist

then it should lift off

Hi Ian, I've got the drill on it's side (sitting on bubble wrap). The column doesn't shift at all, even with the holding bolt completely out. The top of the column has got plenty of surface rust. I can try the penetrating oil there?

10/03/2018 14:34:38
Posted by Vic on 10/03/2018 13:15:44:

On my Bench model that bolt is an Allen bolt that holds two wedges in place. As said, replace the bolt and give it a tap with a hammer to loosen the wedges.

Hi Vic - yes! I found those two wedges, too. Both came out. Even with the drill lying on its side, and the wedges removed, the column just doesn't shift at all:

10/03/2018 11:17:56

Hi all,

I've recently bought a Progress 1S (floor-standing pillar drill) off eBay, and I was hoping someone can help me figure out how to dismantle it.

So far, I've separated the column from the pedestal. Now I'm struggling to get the head of the drill and the steel column apart.

I've removed a bolt (shown in the image in the red box), and I'd hoped that this would allow me to slide the head off the column, but nothing budges. Is there something else I should be removing? Or is it rust that's stuck the parts together?

Cheers!

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