Member postings for Robin

A zebra strip is layers of metal conductor and rubber insulator. I remember once a factory used a photosensitive resist mask containing sulphur. It took time for the rubber in the zebra strips to vulcanise, expand and break the contact. Plenty of time to test, package and sell the product all over the world

Some heritage cottage up the road from here got a new, period correct floor made from a mixture of sour milk and chalk. Apparently it took a while to set

I think it is near silver birch trees that the fly agaric toadstool grows.

You chop it up, put it in a saucer of sour milk then put the saucer on a high shelf so the cat can't get it

Edited By Robin on 22/09/2018 22:00:37

Not a clue. I am more in it for the big clouds of stinky smoke than the the technical guff

The capsquare pivot is the top of a long bolt that goes all the way down, through the axle bar and nuts on from below. It has to be over the axle

Doesn't the nitrate give you the nitrite plus oxygen?

IIRC this works for potassium, sodium and silver nitrates.

Oak, 218 years

Gunnades from Falkirk so probably by Carron.

Sorry, couldn't resist...

I had a computer monitor failure yesterday. New SOTA thing arriving today, plus replacement electrolytic capacitors for the old one. In my experience a dead monitor is nearly always a dried out electrolytic and at £3.22 for a complete new set I have to try.

My one attempt at anodising preserved the metal most wondrously but I could not get the colour to penetrate.

Controlling the current using an auto bulb meant it took a lot longer than expected to convert and I thought that was the problem.

Please explain this microwaving thing if you have time. I thought hot water sealed the surface.

I have ordered 100 grams of aluminium potassium sulphate to dissolve out the broken tap. A new experience for me, looks like fun.

Those are adorable, do they work?

Keeping? When the plug tap went pop the whole set became as useful as a chocolate teapot.

I drilled 8.5mm, squared up with an M10 taper and it wound clean through, a one finger spin.

I thought so0mething odd here.

I put the 2nd all the way through my 12mm plate. Tried to put in a set screw and it wouldn't start.

Had to run the plug before the screw would fit.

If these were not advertised as "serial taps" can I legitimately send them back?.

Have I missed something?

I thought that the top part of a taper or a second tap would be the same as the plug. A completed thread. But appartently not.

Two new sets of HSS (ho ho) taps M5 and M10 ISO coarse. The screw doesn't fit until I run the plug. Won't even start.

Out of curiosity I put my calipers across the top three flutes of the M5 set, An odd measurement but one I would expect to be the same for all three.

Taper 4.25mm

2nd 4.48

Plug 4.73

My fault, I have now hung my head and bought Presto.

Layout fluid is button polish with a dash of gentian violet to make it colourful. If your bottle dries out, add metylated spirit. Gentian violet is on eBay at £20 for 10 grams, seems a bit pricy. Has a lot of Health and Safety warnings attached but people use a 1% solution to kill infections in baby's mouth. Can't both be right, can they?

How big is it? Have you got it as an STL file? I am not being competetive, just curious.

Black is the hardest colour to get a nice finish on, it shows every string and every smear.

I was soaking the bore in rust remover overnight. I think the hoist gradually let go and it started to tilt.

Cannons made c1800 for the Reed Shipping Line, trading the South China Seas out of Cardiff. I have the original carriages which is fun

I discovered that engine hoists are not 100% solid, dented the floor, missed the car by inches...

I had this fault, the problem was in the tilt of the top wheel.

You think you have taken all the available tilt to keep the blade on, but you have actually misunderstood how stupid the tilt mechanism is. There is no pivot, there are only screws. You have to loosen the two to get more tilt from the third.

Take it apart and have a look. After years of my blade coming off it is now never a problem (Touch wood).

How about good ol' shellac? You paint it on as button polish, thick as you like to both surfaces, dry it, fuse them together at around 80degC, cut your part then melt again to get it apart.