Member postings for Andrew Cox

Thanks all, and thanks specifically to DC31k for the link to the Winter Brothers catalogue; that confirms they were the manufacturer as they use the thistle logo.

I've just bought a handful of second hand taps, based on a description and a picture. What attracted me is they were described as M7, which although relatively unusual in the wider world, finds widespread use in the old Citroen cars I dearly love.

Anyway, when they arrived and I cleaned them up, they are anything but M7.

As we know, there's M7 coarse, with a 1mm pitch and M7 fine, with a pitch of 0.75mm. These taps have a pitch of 1.1mm.

These are the markings:

Brand: Winter, with a thistle logo

7 M/M (I've measured the major diameter at 7mm)

1.1 (I've measured the pitch at 1.1mm)

Then there is a further engraving that says.....

Either L’H’Z or Z.H.L or just possibly Z.H.7 ?

Googling around suggests there is a German standard for a largely obsolete Löwenherz thread that has a pitch of 1.1 mm for a diameter of 7mm, so in the absence of a better idea, I assume that's what these are. The pitch angle for this thread is 53.13 degrees, but I've no way of checking this in my workshop. (**LINK**)

Does this spark any thoughts ? Anyone need them

Will this work ? link to other pictures: **LINK**

Edited By Andrew Cox 3 on 03/06/2020 17:17:20

Hi Andrew, thanks for the link. My membership application is pending.......

Hi all

Just to close the loop on this one. Over the holiday, I finished the repair to my top slide. I took Martin Johnson's advice (option 2); basically removing 1/4" from the end of the slide, and re-boring / tapping the holes for the gib adjustment screw.

There was a slight interlude involving a broken screw.............. and a broken screw extractor....which required a visit to a local spark-erosion specialist. (It's very handy to live near Coventry, where such services are readily available).

Just today, I made a replacement screw. It has a 1/2" diameter head and a 3/16 BSF, threaded section, 1" long. I thought I might struggle to turn the thin section, but I followed some advice on Joe Pieczynski's YouTube channel, which worked like a dream. All in all, I'm happy with the result.

Next job, make a new dial that reads 0 to 2.5mm to replace the one graduated 0- 2.0mm.

Thanks once again for the advice and support.

Edited By Andrew Cox 3 on 03/01/2020 12:11:23

Edited By Andrew Cox 3 on 03/01/2020 12:11:49

Edited By Andrew Cox 3 on 03/01/2020 12:12:21

Thanks guys

So, to summarise what I've learned from the exchange so far

1) First of all, thanks for reaffirrming my original view, that I have a nice lathe and it's worth putting some effort into addressing the odd niggles. Hunting through my hard drive, I found an old file that shows I bought it in 2003 for £250, plus £115 for an inverter to run it from single phase. On a £ per year / per hour of entertainment, I've done OK I think.

2) I will contact the suppliers suggested above to see whether they have any bits, eg top slide, given the state of mine. If I draw a blank, maybe I will see if I can get someone to repair it by building it up with braze..

3) It probably makes sense to give up on changing the cross slide leadscrew. I removed it for another look this afternoon, and iboth it and the nut seem in good order. I think teh path of least resistance will be to make a new dial that reads 2.5mm per turn, accept that it will be 2.54mm and then use the digital readout / care when I get close to size.

4) Revisit the gear train, with a longer term objective of finding or making additional gears to fill the gaps in the screwcutting range.

I feel my enthusiasm has been rekindled......

PS,

Yes, Pete Rimmer, you are quite right, as you suggest, the ABC control translates into 1 x, 2 x, 4 x feed

(based on measurements with a digital RPM meter)

What I haven't quite worked out yet is what change gear options there may be. There were no additional gears supplied when I bought it .

As far as I can see pitches of 0.5mm, 0.75mm, 1mm, 1.5mm, 2,0mm and 3,0mm are possible with the existing setup, but not 1.25mm or 1.75mm

I'm such a novice with all this....LOL

Thanks once again. This was my first post to this forum, it's great to know there are such knowledgeable and helpful people out there.

To add some detail to what I've mentioned, I've uploaded some pictures to an album. This is one, showing the damage to the top slide and hence a quest for one in better condition.

Thanks for the contributions The Lathes.co.uk entry for my lathe is very familiar, it was instrumental in me buying it in the first place, though the particular version I have is different from the one featured, I'm not sure if it was a late model or perhaps a slightly cheaper variant in as much as the drive to the power feed and leadscrew is simpler and thus the thread cutting tables I've seen so far don't match. In brief, the "standard" 1124 has 2 x 2 position levers to the left of the screwcutting gearbox, giving 4 possible combinations, whereas mine has a single lever with three positions. I've used a digital rpm meter to work out the relative gearing, but the resulting pitch selections are oddly limited when calculated this way. Anyway, as I say, I appreciate the comments thanks all.

Hi Pete

In general I would say it's a metric machine. I'm going to use the wrong term now, forgive me, but the "main leadscrew" for screwcutting has a 4mm pitch and all the dials are graduated in mm. Since discovering the mis-matched part, I've bought a cheap digital display, one of these digital verniers with a remote display, but it would be good to have a screw that matches the dial

Cheers

Andrew

I'm chasing a bit of a needle in a haystack khere.

I have a Kerry 1124 lathe, which I bought cheaply way back. Although I've shown it nothing but love, at least one previous owner was less caring, The top slide has suffed a nasty crash, and the thread cutting plate has disappeared, to name just two of the issues it has.

More recently, I discovered why i've been making under-size parts all these years. I thought it was just poor technique - which of course it was - but compounded by the fact the cross slide has a metric dial, 2mm per turn, but the leadscrew itself appears to be imperial, and moves 2.54mm per turn.

I've looked around for something to replace it with, but never quite taken the plunge. Since buying it, I've acquired quite a lot of tooling for it, which I don't really want to have to buy all over again. In the end, what I would really like is just a better version of what I already have.

So, getting - finally - to the point, I would be very grateful for any leads either to a complete lathe that might be for sale or anyone with suitable spares for a Kerry 1124 or compatible machine.

Thanks very much