Member postings for C T

Hi

It's good to see you are just about fixed with your wheel.

I have in the past used a company located in Totnes they manufacture standard wheels and will manufacture them to your specification as well.

http://bridge-abrasives.co.uk/index.html

Edited By C T on 09/04/2023 15:34:51

Wow I am shocked at the prices.

Thak you for the heads up. Lots to think about.

No family issues only me, I will be the o ly issue over thinking everything.

Thanks this has been done.

Thank you for all your feedback and . I am sure I would be capable of restoring the Sunbeam to a high standard, having restored a number of motorcycles over the years but not for a while.
The cost of the work is not the demotivating factor it's the time it will take.
Scrapping it is NOT an option either just an attention grabbing title.
I do like the idea of freezing the condition as the "barn find look" but roadworthy and safe.
I believe this route for me will be more difficult,trying to curb the urge to polish, paint, chrome to within an inch of its life.
Can anyone point to publications, website or general information about this route.

Yes the Engine turns over fine.

I would just love to do that.

As part of the probate process I have needed a valuation. I tried three dealers one recommended by the solicitors each with laughter said "no value bud far beyond resurrection".

Hence my question.

Dave, I would love to see it restored but having looked on the Internet for part suppliers I couldn't find any. Any parts would have to be made. OK I could make some of the parts myself but any Engine wise now they could be expensive.

This SUNBEAM is one of six bikes I have inherited after the death of my farther in law.

The SUNBEAM would be the biggest project by far.

The others are

1 Honda P50

2 Honda C90

3 Raleigh runabout

4 James autocycle

5 Trojan autocycle

All are complete and apparently to have been stored from running but stored for many years.

Can this post be moved to a more appropriate place please?

Should this be restored or scrapped?

It is all there but the condition is in the best eday fashion used.stored for 50+ years time has not been its friend.

Thank you old mart I will work on that tomorrow.

I will post the findings hopefully it will be acceptable first time fingers crossed.

Thank you all,

I have replaced the M8 bolts securing the headstock to the bed with longer high tensile ones and have 3Xbolt dia engaged in the bed. I am much happier now. Not able to use a torque wrench, I had to reduce the Short leg of an Allen key to get into the ones at the back but they are tight now.

The new FAG bearings are fitted and greased as per advice given.

The spindle is fully assembled in the machine and adjusted until no end float indicated just no pre load as such.

I have not run the motor yet, ran out of time.

Will work on it again tomorrow making adjustments as necessary to thr spindle but it dose feel very smooth when turned by hand.

When I fitted the drive belt I could feel either the belt flexing or perhaps it's the motor I don't know.

Thanks again for all your advice.

Thank you all for your responses masses of information to go on there.

This is the position I am now in, with a request for some additional assistance please.

I have now cleaned down the whole assembly and it appears to me that the bearing that has failed (it is the one nearest the chuck) has been running hot as it has a brown tinge to it like heat has been applied and little to no lubricant compared to the bearing at the other end.

Before attempting the next procedure I checked and adjusted the slides on the saddle, cross slide, compound slide, tool post until I was happy that no play existed and the machine was still useable (not stiff to turn the handles)

I did attempt to adjust the preload of the bearings before dismantling what I did was fix in the chuck a Dia 20mm solid carbide bar aprox 300mm long (internal boring bar) with a DTI gauge measure the amount I was able to deflect (I am believing the carbide bar will not flex under finger pressure).

The amount I was able deflect the bar measured aprox 240mm from the chuck jaws was + 0.125mm - 0.125mm with not to much force from me. The gauge always returned to zero as I removed the pressure from the carbide bar. I also tried to push and pull the spindle in the Z axis with a total movement in this direction of 0.03mm. Slackening the locking grub screw on the spindle locking ring and using a C spanner I made incremental tightening of the spindle. Checking the end float and the ability to deflect the carbide bar. The end float reduced to zero but I was still able to deflect the carbide bar + 0.08mm - 0.08mm. At this point whilst rotating the chuck I could feel it was notchy so decide4d there was an issue with the bearings and went no further, the plan was to replace the bearings. If I am honest I have never been happy with the machine always chasing size and surface texture on the more precise workpieces.

The bearings on the machine as purchased are NBGE 32007 . P6. I do not know the quality of these bearings but were unable to find a supplier locally.

I have purchased a FAG32007-XDY-XL bearing and the lubricant multi purpose lithium high temperature grease. I am confident in reassembling the spindle and adjusting the preload.

With the lathe spindle removed and all cleaned down the front cover of the headstock removed I was able to see two of the bolts securing the headstock to the lathe bed. With an allen key in hand I decided to check the tightness of these two M8 bolts. The result was they were not at all tight I would describe them a nipped up very little pressure required to tighten them further. At this point I removed one and found it came out with only a few turns. placing the bolt back in the hole without any screwing in the gap between the head of the cap screw and the casting was 5mm. So only 5mm of thread would be engaged when fully tightened, I checked the depth of the threaded part in the bed and found that the M8x 25mm set screw could be replaced with a bolt of up to 40mm in length.

So now my question is should I change the bolts for longer ones and I am thinking M8X35mm one at a time so the head is never loose. I am unable to get a torque wrench in so its by feel tight of very tight.

This was probably the main reason for the poor performance of the lathe but a cracked bearing needed to be rectified.

What is P6 referring to?

Old mart,

Thank you for the Information very useful, I can work with that.

I have decided to replace the spindle bearings on my Chester DB10 due to surface texture issues. Not before time either, one of the inner races is cracked.

The bearings are NBGE 32007 P6.

A supplier local to me has a selection to choose from, the link below is to their page.

Is any one of these more suitable than the others for use on a lathe?

Also what grease should I use? No oil feed to the bearings on this lathe.

https://www.engineersmate.com/search.aspx?s=32007

Thank you in advance

Chester customer service is not the best say no more.

Chester 3 In 1 is for sale on this site in the machines for sale by members based in the west midlands sounds good value and you don't need to have Chester customer service

Edited By C T on 09/04/2022 17:50:25