Member postings for Bernard Greatrix

Thanks guys,

I tried something similar to Neils set up and also tried an slide hammer lash up but couldn't get a lasting grip on what was left of the bearing. It was at this stage a friend lent me the puller

At least I now know that the puller would not have worked despite being sold with int/ext suitability.

I eventually removed the outer race with a grinding point but to no avail.

Its water under the bridge now - we have a new washer and I'm glad I didn't fork out for the puller as well.

Stay safe

regards

Bernard

The bearing I'd tried to remove was about 2-1/2" diameter so plenty of room for the legs of the puller I borrowed.

Incidentally the picture is lifted from the net, but is pretty much the same as I had.

As I said its a matter of a few minutes work to reverse the legs.

The problem is what does the centre screw push against.? I even found a U-tube video which spent ages showing how to reverse the legs (rather longer than it actually took) - it then finished without showing the critical part

regards

B

Hi all,

A few weeks ago our washing machine went wrong - the bearing at the back collapsed. Getting the inner off the shaft was no problem but the outer gave me no end of grief. I eventually ground it apart. That was when I discovered that the seal had collapsed and that too would need replacing.

At this my wife descided a new machine was in order - so we are now back in action again.

During my ordeal I borrowed a bearing puller - it worked on the inner to get it off the shaft. But for the life of me I couldn't figure out how to use it on the internal problem.

It's a matter of minutes to strip the puller and set it up for internal pulling -----BUT --- there is nothing for the threaded shaft to push against.

So eventually my query is how do you use this device to remove an internal bearing?

regards

B

ps I've no idea why all my text is underlined

A bigger burner will have to go on my birthday list.

As I usually only 'cook' small pieces of metal I've found the 1/2" nozzle to be adequate.

The one which prompted this post was 1/2" square x1/8" thick being attached to a 1/4" round rod - much like a key blank and I thought it would be a doddle - but it took ages to get to temperature.

Anyway thanks guys - at least I have some food for thought and future improvements

regards

B

Thanks Fizzy, I'll get some Tenicity.

I must admit that I do find it difficult to get quickly to temperature, so I do finish up cooking the metal for quite a while.

I am using Silver-flo 40 (which I bought in error) which probably doesn't help.

B

Hi,

I thought a follow up to my previous post might be useful :-

I've removed one of my screws (I liberally coated them with copper grease when I rebuilt my vice) and would report that the screws are 1" long x 5/16" with a thread of 26tpi. The included angle is 60degrees - so a "Record Special"

It might be worth noting that the screws (at least those in my Record vice) are not the usual 90 or 120 degree countersunk screws but have an included angle nearer to 60/75 degrees.

So if you destroy the originals you might just find it difficult to get replacements.

I would agree wholeheartedly with using the vice jaws to prevent cam out. My vice had spent many months (probably years) in a friend back garden before he gave it to me to take to the local tip - it never got there.

All parts were totally seized but succumbed to soaking in paraffin, under my bench for a couple of months

regards

B

Hi,

I'm using Silver-flo rods and Easy Flow flux to connect pieces of mild steel.

My heat source is a 1/2" Bullfinch torch fed from a 7kg Propane cylinder.

So far so good you might say, and very often it is. The flux forms a silvery appearance and the Silver-flo rod runs nicely into the joint.

But .... every now and then the flux goes black and the Silver-flow beads up and the joint doesn't make.

At this point I have to scrape off the black residue, clean up the metal again and hope for the best.

What am I doing wrong?

I've tried using a Borax flux with the same results.

regards

B

Hi,

A supplier of gage pins is :-

**LINK**

see page 8

As they are in the US they might/might not have a postal offering

2nd thought - as you're after 0.1 inch and there abouts , how about using sewing needles.darning needles. My wife has numerous thicknesses up to about 0.15" and I often'pinch' the odd one for hole measurement

regards

Bernard

Hi,

Daft as it might seam how about using a thin motor oil, eg sae10, applied warm/almost hot.

This, when its soaked into the old oil can be wiped off

regards

Bernard

First apologies for appearing to ignore all your replies, I've been away on a long weekend.

I am greatly appreciative of all your comments and suggestions and went away inspired to make something.

I tried cooking a 1/2" Ball bearing (I don;t know what type of steel - it was 'rescued' from a dead ball race). I got it bright red hot and allowed it to cool slowly between the two firebricks that I'd cooked it in. Rather disappointed - the oxidation scale was rather heavy and it was still too hard to file a flat on.

I have - somewhere- a small double ended rose bearing, but have not been able to find it, so I'll put that on the back,burner for now.

So using materials that I had lying around I've a made a centre finder - al la Tubal Cain but found that until I get close to centre my dial indicator kept dropping off the side. I'll try again when I get some larger diameter material to add a collar, as suggested above.

I've made a gimbal model (see picture) which does work quite nicely. I just need to get some 3mm rod to complete the build. The photo shows just a piece of thin wire It's probably not as precise as I would have liked as I used odd pieces of material that I had and the smallest available screws are 6BA.

Again many thanks for all your replies

regards

Bernard

I've also ordered some 1/2" threaded balls off the net. They look too useful not to have any

Hi

If this post isn't dead - does anyone have any simple plans for this device. The links to a similar thread appear to have expired

It has been suggested to me to help centre work in a 4 jaw chuck.

Snag is the old guy who described it to me said the hardest part was drilling a ball bearing.

I think he was having me on, but I can't be sure

Any comments welcomed

regards

Bernard

Edited By Bernard Greatrix on 08/03/2019 21:24:51

Yep - as I said I didn't succeed

Again thanks Jason - I'll read them when I've a little more time. SWMBO wants some jobs done before it gets dark

Frances - The WM180 manual says that left hand threads are not possible. That is certainly true for an unmodified lathe.

However I reasoned that if I used a lathe tool upside down and ran the lathe in reverse I might succeed - I didn't by the way - all I got for my troubles was a metallic version of a bottle brush as it didn't cut at all cleanly.

I shall have to investigate making a new banjo arm to add an extra gear. Then I can cut a new cross-slide screw. Then I can mount a VMS and I can mill the item I set out to make in the first place.

regards

Bernard

Thanks Jason - your analysis was spot on. I didn't think about the shank diameter and the label was damaged just after the "8" so I made an assumption (I know, I know, I shouldn't do that)

The ARC table tells all - I'll make a copy and keep it handy

Many thanks

Bernard

Can someone give a link to "Ron's recent thread" - ditto "Neils Foray"

I also have a WM180 and would like to extend the cross feed travel. One of my sticking points is the left-hand thread. I haven't successfully managed it despite running in reverse with the lathe tool upside down.

regards

Bernard

Hi All,

I've just taken delivery of a new milling cutter with 4 flutes x 12mm diameter and I'm curious about the coding on the packaging :-

12 x 12 x 26 x 8

One of the 12's is the diameter - 12mm

What is the 2nd 12

26 is the length of the helix

What is the 8 for

Regards

Bernard

Hi Guys,

I should explain that I did in fact easily chip away the slag, but as the plate was originally square I ground off the corners etc so that the surface of the weld metal was exposed.

This was the material I found impossible to turn down. The base metal (pipe and plate) both turned easily, but when encroaching onto the weld metal the lathe tool just wore away.

I then tried annealing but my gas torch (which runs off butane gas) could only get the steel up to a dull red, even when positioned in a corner of fire bricks.

I'll call in at the local welding supplier when next in town and see what else he has to offer then try again - I have a 1" piece of tube left over. The required length for another shield would be 3-1/4".

As I said above I got around the problem by grinding off the excess and the shield is now painted black to match the motor on the back of the saw.

Once again may thanks to all who've offered support.

regards

Bernard

Nearly forgot -my welder is a simple arc welder, a  SIP Weldmate 140 bought back in 1983 and I found 60A to be about optimum for 2mm rods.

Edited By Bernard Greatrix on 02/12/2018 00:10:53

Just to add more information I've looked at the ESAB website

https://www.esab.co.uk/gb/en/products/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.product&productCode=410003

and it advises :-

OK 46.00 is the best, all-round, rutile electrode and it is relatively insensitive to rust or other surface impurities. It deposits smooth weld beads in all positions, including vertical down, and the slag is easy to remove. OK 46.00 is very easy to strike and restrike, making it ideal for short welds, root runs and tacking.

Another tab gives the weld analysis as :-

I did note the word 'rutile' and discovered that this means titanium

So maybe I need to buy some more rods

regards

Bernard

Hi Guys,

I don't have any more pole to make a second item - The project is simply to provide a shield for the exposed capacitor on the back of my woodworking band saw.

I really just wanted to tidy up the welding prior to painting.

I eventually solved the problem using an angle grinder and my slowest lathe speed- A bit messy, but no more so than it throwing cutting oil all over the back.

So thanks for you taking the time to give advise, it is most appreciated and I will bear in mind your comments when the next project come up. As I would like to crack it.

regards

Bernard

I ground off the galvanising prior to welding

Edited By Bernard Greatrix on 01/12/2018 15:15:58