Member postings for Pete Rimmer

Carbide needs a different sharpening technique to high carbon/high speed steel. Can't say that I ever heard anyone else call them inferior, perhaps the file might suit your scraping technique better. My HSS scraper need sharpening a lot more frequently for sure.

Martin if you're starting out you should go for a 6omm radius scraper or smaller. Anything more and you risk gouging the part with the corner of the blade. If you're scraping small ways use 40mm or even down to 20mm so your scrapes are smaller in width.

If you guys want to make a scraper for yourself you could take my approach. I just made a bunch of them for the scraping class we held last week and knocked up some handles from wooden curtain rail dowel I got at the boot fair. The cost for batches of 10 scraper handles was about £3 a pop. Buy the metal from Tilgear 25x3mm cold rolled steel.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/machine-reconditioning-scraping-and-inspection/beginner-scraping-question-scraper-design-343434/index3.html#post3089226

These were very popular at the class and most of them were taken away by the students, I managed to keep a handful for myself.

Edited By Pete Rimmer on 17/12/2017 12:44:34

I have been using these discs on my grinder too but you have to be careful with the 3000rpm not to scorch them and if you have a cheapo 6" grinder you might struggle to get them running true enough not to 'bounce'.

Just recently I've made a slow speed grinder from a comparatively cheap wet stone grinder with adjustable angles for lapping carbide scrapers. This works wonderfully well at 350rpmand the discs should last a very long time. The other difference I have found with the slower speed is that it needs a finer grade disc than the grinder to get a very fine finish.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/machine-reconditioning-scraping-and-inspection/made-cheap-ass-carbidescraper-sharpener-341604/

If you have a lathe with a faceplate you can stick the disc onto that with some double-sided tape and choose any speed your lathe can run at. The faceplate will provide good solid backing for a good finish.

Edited By Pete Rimmer on 12/11/2017 00:32:31

They aren't so plentiful, I've had to make most of what I have.

Scraping is now almost relegated to home enthusiasts and whatever handful of rebuilders of old equipment there are still going. Not much of a market for the equipment you'd need but it wouldn't take much for someone to at least stock a couple of boxes of the small bottles of spotting dye.

The most difficult stuff I've had to find is the cast iron straight edges. Very thin on the ground nowadays and a lot of what you see isn't fit for use until it's been scraped in itself.

Pete.

I do dilute it with a light oil. Often you'll find when you open a tube that some oil has separated out. I put down a small bead of blue ready for rolling out and apply one single drop of oil, it's a bushing oil similar to 3-in-1 oil. I find that this makes it less likely to suck the part to the plate and it does print much better. I have a small 6" plate which I roll out the blue on to load the roller then roll it out on the plate I'm using for spotting.

Pete.

Edited By Pete Rimmer on 09/11/2017 20:36:27

Hi gents,

My first post here and I know this thread is a few months old but some members will recognise me from other forums so I thought I'd just chime in. You can buy canode in the UK now you can get it from aetools in Bolton. It's not advertised on their site yet but they are the UK importer so if you need some give them a call or send an email. I have no association with them I only mention this because I'm placing an order myself and this thread came up in a search. I thought it would be handy for the scrapers here to know that you can get it locally now.

Cheers.

Pete