Member postings for Steve Crow

Sherline use a half length MT0 taper in the tailstock. I can't remember whether it is the big or small end though.

Steve

Michael, Millhill have been very helpful with this but I will inform them about this problem.

The DIN cable is from the controller to the stepper motor. The power plug at the controller end is simple hollow cylinder type found on many low voltage devices. It is the size of this that is (allegedly) non-standard. It's 5.5mm dia and 10mm long.

Steve

Many thanks for all the replies.

It is definitely the 240V step down at fault. It is too hot to handle after an hour. It is also only rated for an hour over 30 V/A (Which I assume is the same as Watts?).

I never considered the legality of the set up. The controller is not CE marked but does it need to as it's a 24V device?

I would like to use a proper 240V to 24V power supply as Emgee suggested but that would involve a knowledge of things electrical that I don't possess. I have neither the tools or the inclination to start "wiring" things.

I have seen plug-in 240V to 24V 1amp convertors on ebay and RS components sell dozens of different types but I can't be sure that the plug for the controller will be right. I've been told that it's a non standard size.

The solution that appeals at the moment is the 200W 240 to 110V as suggested by Dave. Can anyone see any pitfalls with taking this route?

My main concern is somehow frying the controller!

Any further suggestions or observations are more than welcome.

Steve

I recently bought a Sherline CNC rotary table and controller. It came with a USA spec 120V -24V transformer and a UK spec 240V - 120V step down converter.

After about an hours use, the whole set up stopped working.

I got in touch with Mill Hill Supplies who sent me one of each of the units so I could determine it was the UK - USA converter at fault.

After another hour and half use, the new one packed in!

I'm reluctant to get yet another converter as there must be something fundamentally at fault here.

The first unit is labelled as follows:-

Input: 120V AC 38W

Output: 24V DC 1000mA

The second unit:-

Input: 230V

Output: AC 110V 45VA

I have a huge blind spot when it comes to all things electrical, so apart from the volts, the numbers mean nothing to me.

Can anyone advise me on what might be going wrong? Or a possible alternative method of power supply?

Many thanks,

Steve

I agree Martin, there is a huge amount of thought behind the accessory design to ensure combatability with every machine combo.

I like that fact that everything is modular so you can keep adding stuff until you have the set up which suits you.

I haven't touched my watchmakers lathe since I got the sherline. My bench drill doesn't come out very often now I have the sensitive drill attachment either.

I too was not convinced by its appearance. It was only after looking at American websites and forums that I realized it's potential.

Thanks again for all the replies!.

Bazyle, I have considered joining SMEE, I've chatted with them a few times at Ally Pally. The thing is, we are on different sides of London and it will take me about an hour and a half to get there on public transport. My time off is limited and i do like to spend it on my projects. Something to think about on retirement though!

I'm not sure about this outdoor grinding though and I haven't got a dog!

Ian, that is such a kind offer but I will have to turn it down. There is the "no grinding in the kitchen law" and I'm also rather short on storage space. But thank you so much.

Simon, JB sounds just the ticket, it is good to know that companies like that still exist. I will definitely contact Jenny when I return (I am in Crete at the moment). Now I think about it, I'm sure I've seen them at Ally Pally. Again, thank you for the kind offer regarding tool sharpening. I will decline as i don't like to put people out but I do appreciate your offer.

Martin, that is very encouraging as I wasn't sure that inserts were suitable for such a small machine but now I am going to give them a try.

There are such generous and helpful people on this forum, thank you all!

I know what you mean about the machine screws. All the clamping screws are UNF and others are UNC. On things like the tailstock lock and X and y axis locks I've replaced them with home made brass and steel levers. Much more convenient than reaching for an Allen key every few minutes.

Edited By Steve Crow on 29/05/2019 14:21:14

When I got my Sherline lathe with screw cutting kit and a host of accessories, the documentation weighed nearly as much as the metal!

It's about the only time that I've seen my Father impressed with anything! He even thought it was value for money.

Sherline stuff in the UK costs roughly in pounds the same as the dollar price in the USA. I think that's a lot to do with import duties etc.

Kevin at Millhill Supplies, Sherlines UK agents, provides a great service.

I recently watched a video of Roger Smith talking about how his watches are made. There were a few shots of a guy in the workshop manufacturing tiny parts on a fancy CNC mill. The parts to be machined appeared to be stuck to a base plate using shellac.

It struck me as quite anochronistic using such an ancient substance with 21st century equipment. It obviously has some advantage over superglue.

I also don't like superglue fumes and might try shellac.

Isn't there more than one type of shellac? I think it's the black type but I may be wrong.

Steve

Hi Nigel,

I've made my own was chucks from aluminium and attached parts with superglue. You can give them a light facing skim before attaching the part to ensure everything is square. I suppose they are slightly sacrificial but you can just face them off and start again.

Steve

Hello, just wondering if there are many Sherline lathe owners out there, i do see them mentioned occasionally on the forum.

I've heard a few horological types who own vintage Swiss metal dismiss them as toys but I've been hugely impressed with the accurate and repeatable results.

I've recently bought a mill and CNC rotary table which I've not had chance to use yet but seem to be very well made compared to far eastern hardware I've handled at shows.

Ok, they are not a Cowells but neither is the price.

Any thoughts?

Steve

Thank you all for your suggestions.

Jeff, I don't have a car or bike. I live in inner London so I don't need one.

Ian, the problem with a grinder is mess and noise. I can only just get away with turning and milling and it's attendant swarf and brass dust in the kitchen. Spraying HSS dust and sparks all over the place would not go down well with the other half. The neighbors wouldn't be too happy either.

Roger, i have a set of similar laps but I've chipped a few tools and need to remove quite a bit of metal.

Chris, I've looked up the inserts and toolholders you mentioned and they look just the thing.

My next question is are all holders and inserts created equal? I've looked at the JB cutting tools website and they seem quite reasonable with a good range of sizes and geometrys. Can anyone recommend these?

I know that a lot of you swear by HSS but the insert route seems very convenient if a bit more costly.

At the end of the day, i don't get much workshop time and i just want to get on with cutting metal!

Thanks again, Steve.

I've had a Sherline lathe for about a year now and I'm very happy with it. It came with a nice sharp set of 1/4" cutting tools.

My problem is that I live in a one bedroom flat and my workbench is the kitchen table. It is not practical to use a bench grinder in this environment so I've been fettleing the cutting tools using a diamond stone etc.

It feels like I'm fighting a losing battle keeping them sharp so I'm considering getting some tool holders and inserts.

There seems to be a bewildering array of angles, shape and grades of inserts and I'm not sure where to start. I will be using brass, mild and silver steels in roughly equal proportions. Most of the work will be with sub 6mm bar stock.

I would like to start with a RH turning/facing tool and then get others as necessary.

Do I need different grade inserts for different materials?

How do they cope with interrupted cuts?

Alternatively, maybe someone has suggestions for sharpening tools without a bench grinder?

A lot of questions I'm afraid but I know that you are a helpful lot.

Steve

Thank you Ian. Back to the drawing board.

Thank you all. I've used the iron wire binding method before.

The reason I ask is that a brass one would double up as a blueing tray for brass chips.

Can I just add that I'm not making a tourbillon bridge!

In "Watchmaking", George Daniels describes how he hardens a tourbillon bridge by placing it in a box turned from a copper disc before heating.

My question is, why copper?

Is there any reason I can't use brass or mild steel for that matter?

Cheers

Steve

I can recommend these drill bits. I've drilled over 100 0.5mm holes through ground flat stock with one of these without breakage. This was using a small bench drill at about 3000rpm.

It looks the same as mine - I'll have to check. Price was the same anyway.

I might have just got a bad one. I've noticed this with cheap imports before. I think that quality control is so low that although most things are at least serviceable, a high percentage of shoddy goods slip through the net.

I bought a cheap "mini" scissor type for my Sherline. Utter rubbish. Slack and play everywhere and just not worth trying to fix.

The bigger ones might be better though.