Member postings for Eddy Curr

Bit of hex brass stock and a little set-up. Given the same amt of time I've put into the BSP-NPT issue, I'd probably already be finished the 20 or so hex plugs.

Just seemed like there should be a readily available commodity: valve w/ NPT ports; easily-available BSP fittings.

Thank you. I'll get on with it ...

Thank you. Yes, I've had success w/ searches on eBay.co.uk in the past, too. Thought I'd ask about preferred vendors here as I've had pleasant dealings w/ the likes of Arceuro and others in the past, just don't know who carries such fittings.

G1/8 is a new term for me. Can you elaborate a bit?

Hmmm. Different pitch, form and angle?

Probably nothing that additional PTFE tape and a bigger spanner can't fix, huh ?

Any forum vendors with a line of small BSP fittings that trade overseas ...

I tried to edit the previous post several times, but the post text failed to display longer than momentarily before disappearing - seemingly a result of slow-to-load advertising banners. I'm all in favour of advertising - right up to the point where it bogs down the site and interferes with key functionality.

Anyway.

The previous content should say "... I CAME across ..."

- Will 1/8" NPT male thread seal in 1/8" BSP female thread. (I am aware of the flat/rounded shape and 60/55 angle differences between the thread types.)

- What is "PT" as regards to products mfd in China.

- Are there 2-3 UK or other sources for small BSP fittings. In particular, 1/8" BSP hex plugs.

I am located in Can where NPT is the norm. I can across a solenoid valve suitable for a project of mine - unfortunately, it has 1/8" BSP female ports as listed by most vendors. A few vendors offering the same valve describe the ports as 1/8" "PT".  So far, I have not come across an equivalent valve (2-position, 3-way) w/ NPT ports and a solenoid configuration suitable for the application in mind.

I have seen 1/8 "PT" Push-to-Connect hose fittings paired with the valves. These do not appear to meet my needs because: a) I don't know what PT thread is and b) I intend to use bespoke barb fittings (hex plugs drilled for 3mm OD brass tube.)

I have discovered one 1/8 BSPM - 1/4 NPTF adapter: the price is high for my purposes. Together with the matching NPT fitting, this arrangement is a deal-breaker.

Edited By Eddy Curr on 10/12/2019 19:53:59

While this combo machine appeared to have its original bits (3 & 4 jaw, FPlate, turret tool post, chg gears, steady rest, dead & live centers, lathe dog, spanners, operator manual), plus what I assume were extras (RoTab w/ 2 div plts, low milling vice, drill chuck w/ arbor), it looked like it had been sitting in cold storage for some time. The 4 jaw was disassmbled, the loose pieces are all jumbled together in a few bins.

Jason, by no means was the machine ready to be featured in (or even amongst the backdrop of) a Home & Workshop Machinery advert inside the back page of MEW. Just cosmetics, assuming the gearbox contents and motors are sound - but there woud be effort, degreaser, phosphoric acid and more required before it could be allowed into a fastidious man's shop.

I think it is brilliant that the gov sets listings like this to close at 10 PM on a Fri evening.

Just to follow up.

The final bid for the machine in a timed online auction hosted by the surplus sales dept of a provincial govt was the equiv of £2,152.

I wanted to find somethng on MEW today and in short order came to the realization there is scant native Search capability available within the forum itself.

This astounds someone such as myself, a longtime proficient user of tools like vBulletin's Advanced Search for scalpel-like precision knowledge retrieval from BBS database archives.

I was going to start a thread to ask for direction, thinking it was just a matter of infamiliarity with the site tool location. But first decided to see what results the rudimentary capability might deliver.

"Search Forum" ... nothing

"Forum search" ... nothing

"Search" ... 35 results

35? Really ?

** ==================== **

I post these observations to the tail of a ten-year-old thread to emphasize that nothing regarding forum search deficiencies appears to have changed in a decade.

Yes, I've seen the advice directing people to utilize Google. Thanks, but no thanks.

I do not know who David Clark is, but suppose him to be a stakeholder of some sort in MEW and I find his contribution(s) to this thread to be illuminating.

Bewildering state of affairs here.

Thank you.

I will look in that location when I view the machine.

It may not have been what JasonB meant in his initial post, but really, at this stage the date of mfr has little significance for practical purposes.

Condition, features, tooling and price ...

Where are Emco numbers located?

The Ser# posted above was provided by the vendor, perhaps this has been read off the motor plate or maybe the milling attachment?

There is a mfr plate on the backside of the HS, on the cover plate for the switchgear above the motor. This reads

Maier & Co

Type Emcomat V8

115V 60c

9,3 Amp 0,75 HP Total

LR 14412

An Instruction Book/Service Parts document included with the machine is identified as "Edition 76 05 Ref. Nr. EN 2 315" This machine is green, as opposed to the blue said to have been used earlier.

Edited By Eddy Curr on 10/02/2019 22:50:25

Thank you, Jason and Barrie.

With a Ser# of 03486818, the machine follows the earlier all-numeric 8-digit pattern described by Mr Lever.

Unfortunately, Yr 03, Mo 48, Machine 6818 seems implausible. The second two digits might make sense if they refer to week of mfr - but is it feasible that 6818 machines were built in a wk? Then there is the matter of year. Lathes.co.uk reports Profi Heim producing some Emco machines until 2001, when they shuttered. Emco Maier continued to produce other manual Emcos, but Lathes doesn't include the Emcomat 8.6 amongst the models.

Is someone in the MEW community able to advise whether and how the production date for an Emcomat lathe can be derived from its serial number?

Be cautious about the make-up of oil used to fill a gearbox containing yellow (brass, bronze) or red metal parts.

Additives in EP or Extreme Pressure gear oils (sulfur, chlorine, potassium-borate ...) can cause rapid wear.

Examine the product data sheet looking for results of the Copper Strip Corrosion Test (ASTM D130) or whatever the equivalent test is in your part of the world.

What kind of volume/frequency are you looking at? How steady are your hands and how is your vision?

An approach for Cross Hole Deburring (hint: search topic) that seems to be common amongst the CNC Automation crowd is the use of a ball-shaped burr or lollipop cutter.

XEBEC Cross-hole Debur (How the CNC guys do it)
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=55xCGNKxiTQ

If inclined, that approach could be mimicked manually with a Dremel or similar tool. Dremel offers 1/8" Round Carbide Cutters, as well as 1/4 × 3/16 Carbide Cutters in single and double cut. Other vendors will have different options to choose from. You might persuade your dentist to save cast-offs in smaller sizes.

Orbitool in a cordless handheld grinder https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=U6TIqlekuRU

The "Burraway" mechanical deburring tools produced by Cogsdill are an example. I have their Type A in 5/32 and 3/16 versions.

@Vic (OP)

Which of the suggestions posted so far seem most suitable to your intended purpose of deburring cross-drilled holes in rounds.

Also. I do not recall seeing you reply to the question someone asked inquiring as to the dia of the material and cross-hole.

No, the need for enough, but not too much gap is to facilitate: 1) capilliary movement of the braze filler metal along the length of the joint between parent metals; and 2) joint strength.

The article in the following link discusses aspects of gap size, joint tensile strength, flux voids and brazing atmosphere.

"The Famous Joint-Strength vs Joint-Clearance Chart" Dan Kay. 2013.04.07

While the conclusions hold implications for industry and obsessives, hobbiests such as myself can continue to follow age-old practice to enjoy satisfactory results.

Yes.

The ellipsis in the quotation denotes words left out. Liquid-to-liquid and gas-to-liquid seemed superfluous to the discussion at hand.

The full phrase reads as follows:

"Surfactants are compounds that lower the surface tension (or interfacial tension) between two liquids, between a gas and a liquid, or between a liquid and a solid. Surfactants may act as detergents, wetting agents, emulsifiers, foaming agents, and dispersants."

Source: Wikipedia

Washing up liquid or dish detergent is a surfactant, a "compound that lowers surface tension between ... a liquid and a solid."

As indicated by Neil, adding detergent to the water used with the flux paste facilitates improves dispersion or wetting action of the flux by reducing the surface tension between the flux mixture and the surfaces it is applied to.

While I defer to CuP Alloys 1 in all matters brazing, a little detergent goes a long ways.

Con Nicoll 1

If you are a novice to brazing, besides choosing filler to suit your needs, pay attention to CuP Alloys and IanT's remarks about gap/clearance along the joints. As alluded to, capilliary action of the filler metal is central to successful brazed joints. It is essential that an adequate gap be present for this action or flow to take place, if parent metals are butted tightly together, results will be less satisfactory.

Another consideration that can be non-intuitive is that braze filler metal flows toward heat. As the pieces are approaching temperature and you begin to apply filler metal, play the flame opposite the point of filler application and let capilliary action draw the filler along to the destination.

Here is one of several discussions on the subject, perhaps you may find it useful:

https://www.lucasmilhaupt.com/en-US/brazingfundamentals/properbrazingprocedure/

A Thank You and some comments.

That 1/2 height Jam Nuts function better underneath full height Hex Nuts than on top comes as news to me - I have never seen an OEM configuration where the Jam Nut wasn't on the outboard side of the thread. However, I have since seen some authoritative reports confirming that an inboard placement is superior. Thank you for drawing this to my attention.

On my side of the pond, there are names for thin wrenches/spanners intended for use on Jam Nuts. Stanley Proto offers the following:

- Check Nut Wrench: Single, open end wrench with head set at a 15° angle

- Service Wrench: Single open end with head set at a 30° angle

- Tappet Wrench: Double open end with heads set at a 15° angle

Regarding Pal Nuts mentioned earlier. The unknowing should be made aware that the formed from stamped sheet metal Pal Nut is physically different from the machined from solid bar stock Jam Nut.

Regarding Nylok Nuts. The nylon locking component is not suitable for use in elevated temperatures - one example stipulates a ceiling of 140°C (284°F) in ideal conditions. There are specials rated for higher temperatures, but the improvement is insufficient for many applications.

An alternate form of self-locking nut that is suitable for much higher temperature service is the Stover Nut. The outboard side of a Stover Nut is intentionally deformed after threading, this creates an interference fit between the nut's deformed threads and those of a bolt or stud. Stover Nuts are reusable.

Lastly, an reference source for fasteners.

"Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook" Smith, Carroll

Most recent edition: http://carrollsmith.com/books/nutsbolts.html