Member postings for Jelly

I'm not actually sure what you're getting at here, from the relevant section of BS7671:2018:

Operation of a VFD is not "household and similar use", so the paragraph is irrelevant and fitting a BS EN 60309-2 compliant "CEEform" interlocked switch-socket would represent a compliant approach, as per the wording of 553.1.3

Currently sat answering a set of clarification questions from IChemE in response to the Chartered Engineer application I made back in 2021.

I can't say I am super-impressed by the turnaround time, or the attention to detail by the reviewers, but ultimately they're all volunteers and IChemE's directions to the reviewers sems to actively discourage digging into the details, so it is what it is.

What's particularly infuriating though is that because I don't have a neat tidy modern MEng as my educational background I have to essentially duplicate the entire process, resulting in a total of four separate application forms and two interviews each of which comes with its own fees and waiting period.

Mcnett Aquasure or Aquaseal UB will do a decent job but will remove any breathable properties where it is applied so be precise if it's goretex or equivalent, spread it very thinly or it will noticably stiffen the seam.

Seamgrip is an alternative if you'd prioritise flexibility over durability.

If it's goretex or the like Shelby.fi will mail order you heat-seal breathable tape to apply with an iron (there's a lot more to it, so do some reading if you go that route)

In the unlikely event it's an ultra lightweight silicone coated nylon cagoule you'd need Silnet.

I've had to do this numerous times for old drawings and when it was inconvenient to transport them across the country to the company's drawing office (where we had a large format scanner) have used local branches of Hobs Repro.

I think we were paying a couple of pounds per A0 sheet, for High-Res Scans same day turnaround.

If you don't want the hassle and risk of transporting the drawings, then one of my clients has used Flo Smart Solutions in the past to come in and do on-site scanning of hundreds of large format documents in one go.

Once everything is digitised, it's worth considering an agreement to transfer the originals to a suitable archival collection which can store them in a controlled environment for preservation.

Ideally such an agreement would see your organisation retain ownership and/or access rights in perpetuity, or offer a take-back clause where if the archive was unable or unwilling to store them, they would be returned.

Edited By Jelly on 19/04/2023 12:06:29

Having used a Metric GH1330 (same lathe different bed length) I can confirm it came new with that double system dial.

The metric leadscrew imperial dial reads out to an impractical number of thou per revolution, I presume your imperial leadscrew metric dial does the same but for twentieths of a mm.

Edited By Jelly on 18/04/2023 21:44:21

As previously mentioned collected a new (to me) TOS Kurim FNK25 Finessa mill.

[deleted image containing uncensored reg plates]

The seller arranged crane it onto my trailer with a Hiab, which was undoubtedly very convenient but a bit of squeeze to get both their wagon and my truck and trailer in.

It's around this point where I started to thing "oh god what have I let myself in for..."

However a lot of awkward reversing later it becomes apparent that unlike previous machines where they had to go up the slope and over the threshold, with the trailer all I really need to do is put the legs down and winch it down...

Nae Problem!

It's the heaviest and most awkward machine tool I've moved to date, but was moved entirely on my own with a fraction of the effort of previous machines where I had assistance...

The gravity + rollers + winch approach has much to recommend it.

Hopefully I can get a plug on it (it was a fixed install at the previous location) and in final position after tea ready to make some chips.

Edited By Jelly on 17/04/2023 18:17:25

I currently use that space to store the oil that's leaking from the headstock after I cocked up by overfilling it but couldn't bring myself to drain it back to the right level after how messy draining it the first time was... The self tapper is a level gauge.

Although the lift should actually make it much easier to drain, and I should do it when I switch the change gears back from Module/DP to Normal threads.

My day has been quite eventful.

Fitted a camper conversion into the back of my truck, with my partner applying a newfound passion for welding and grinding to make all the bracketry for the folding bed, whilst I sorted out stitching a folding mattress cover (sewing a cumulative 26 metres of seams in thick upholstery fabric was bloody exhausting, something she clearly identified and avoided despite normally being the more accomplished seamstress)...

Then moved on to clearing space in the workshop ready for the collection of the new mill tomorrow, which revealed the weirdest thing:

a large flat plane, a bit like a large table but suitable for walking on, which was hidden underneath all the stuff in my workshop, Weird!

I swear I've seen one somewhere before, but it will never catch on.

After offloading the mill tomorrow I also need to make the most of my day off and service the sewing machine whilst I remember because it was making unhappy noises towards the end of its ordeal making the mattress covers.

Edited By Jelly on 17/04/2023 01:31:17

If you fit a DRO, consider fitting a 3-axis display and two read heads onto the z-axis scale (which might entail buying an additional short scale just to cannibalise the read head), so Z1 is the carriage position and Z2 is the turret position.

By giving yourself a separate z-axis readout for the turret you will both:

• Make it easier to use it accurately for one-off jobs without having to set the stops/tool positions
• Make it easier to set the stops/tool positions for any parts you do want to make multiples of, because you can use the DRO to directly measure without needing to make setting gauges or use stacks of gauge blocks

Reducing the amount of time and effort to set up the machine to do multiple parts could be a bit of a game changer for a hobbyist.

This said I am not sure turret position stops are universal, the one turret lathe I have run had a bar along the back of the bed with 4 adjustable length stops on it, which could be indexed to engage (or not engage) with a dog attached to the turret.

My toolroom lathe has two similar attachments (for carriage and cross slide) and they're a godsend sometimes, even with a DRO fitted.

It's probably widely known at this point, but I have to say Cutting Edge Engineering is pretty excellent, it's particularly interesting to watch how Curtis has really refined his workflow for jobs he does regularly, but actually takes you along for the ride when he's doing something out of his comfort zone.

alistairc123 is a similar viewing experience, albeit bit less polished in his presenting style, but if anything more impressive in the type and scale of work he does.

There's also a Taiwanese chap whose name eludes me but occasionally posts interesting videos of him running a 120" VBL or an Elgamill, which is also surprisingly good.

I particularly like the way all three don't make a big deal of things or labour the point on exposition and just crack on with some really very difficult work, on camera. The combination of fabrication and machining also appeals to me as compared to purely one or the other.

Jacked my Lathe up on blocks as discussed elsewhere on the forum.

Haven't tested it at top speed (3200rpm!) yet which I would like to, to ensure there's no vibration issues before I call it done, but I need to re-level it first (Joy!).

Total height gain is about 210mm, which feels pretty comfortable... It is actually kind of odd though to suddenly not have to stoop to reach the controls and get clear visibility of the workpiece without having to hover over it.

I bought them to a specified compressive strength approximately 2.5 times higher than the highest loading expected (based on the lathe mass and the area of the metal foot pads under the levelling bolts) and plan to bed them on a suitable mortar if I need to take up any unevenness in the floor.

I have seen the results of failure to consider floor loading in the past, in the form of a 100T mobile crane rollover at a neighbouring company, it didn't look like fun.

I like the idea, because I've used a pantograph which is specifically designed to be operated from a high stool, (complete with two operator foot-rests cast into the column) with all the controls positioned to be in easy reach of the sitting position, it is extremely ergonomic and a joy to operate.

However, sadly none of my machines is small enough for me to have that kind of reach to the controls from a seated position.

Yeah, ultimately if the lathe reached tipping point I'd need to be able to push it with around 8500N of force... meanwhile the average pushing force that you can exert safely is estimated at about 250N, and the world record is around 3000N.

Actually thinking about the forces involved and drawing an imaginary force diagram in my head, I realised that if the riser base was both:

1. wider than the machine base, and
2. not attached to the machine, but instead to the floor.

Then I'm not actually changing the position of the lathe's centre of mass relative to the tipping point, so it wouldn't negatively effect it's stability.

In that vein I have bought some concrete blocks which will form a suitably wide base to jack it up on.

Depends on the lathe, mine will make a gentle pop sound as the automatic clutch in the power feed disengages due to excessive tool pressure, which can be adjusted by a little knob on the carriage.

On the Warco I've used in the past, it would be an inexpensive but incredibly awkward to replace sheer pin.

Successfully got the repainted canopy reunited with the truck, the latter half of which was done the pouring rain, then put the (now sopping wet inside) tent down and stood on the tailgate of the truck holding it aloft to drain all the water out.

I now have about 2lt of that dark metallic blue paint left due to the quantity o had to order it in, so that might become my workshop project colour of choice from now on.

I also moved every machine in the workshop, the phase converter, the 3 phase DB and all the three phase sockets to create a new layout ready for next week, and bought some "high-strength" concrete blocks with a view to lifting the lathe up on them.

... and went for a walk in the woods, and did a couple of hours of "work-work" first thing this morning, I am not entirely sure where I found the energy.

This strikes me as a rather more "agricultural" solution than your normal high standards...

I had considered that, as it's something I do for safety when strapping machines down or moving them on skates... But adding two 8" tall trip hazards to a long thin workshop isn't really a very practical solution.

Inspired by this video by Clough42, I started thinking about this problem again.

At 6'4" and a bit, I am just a bit too tall for almost every machine tool I've ever run to be ergonomic, ideally my own machines would be between 4" and 8" higher, but the relative instability and massive weight of the machines has deterred me from using riser feet for risk of them toppling as I haven't bolted my machines down.

.

The way I see it, the options are:

• Riser feet and bolts,
• Concrete plinth, possibly with grout and bolts, which would be the "proper" way,
• Tall stabilising legs bolted to the machine and leveled with shims.
• A fabricated riser block which bolts to the machine base and has a skirt which bolts down to the floor, allowing the holes to be drilled after positioning the machine.

Initial I was thinking the feet option is probably the most practical one, but would still involve drilling 4 precisely positioned holes, epoxying in studs, then manouvering the machine over the bolts way up in the air.

I may of course be being too risk averse, but 8" is quite a lot of additional height in terms of negatively effecting stability, and I'm pretty sure any reduction in back and neck pain would be outweighed by the effects of even a small crush injury.

It did then occur that the feet could bolt to the machine and have a fabricated skirt or tab which bolts to the floor outside the machine's footprint allowing me to drill holes and insert anchors after the fact, which might be more practical.

.

To other tall machinists: Are the ergonomic benefits worth the effort involved in raising your machines to a comfortable height?

Ok that's pretty hard to beat for all round practicality.

I can see where you're coming from as we've seen a proliferation of taller fatter "crossovers" replacing the large estate car segment, most of which have smaller interior space and payload, and worse fuel efficiency than a similarly sized estate. It's a really dumb trend which doesn't serve anything but aesthetics.

But:

1) Large estates are actually pretty huge by car standards, I've had a 406, a Volvo 940, two Mondeo's, a Skoda Superb and a Passat at various points, all of which are as long or longer than a SWB Transit, the VW Transporter or a Mercedes Vito, and similar weights, with similar payloads (the Mondeo's would carry a full 1 tonne, the only difference is form factor.

2) From a driver education perspective, large vans are not appreciably different to drive to a large car, just require a bit more care and spatial awareness.

I've spent many a day driving around in a 7.5M long Iveco Daily, because those were the pool vans that work had, and other than needing to pay attention to where the back end was, it really wasn't that different to driving my Mondeo.

If I was able to borrow the one SWB ford transit then it was literally the same size (and a surprising number of the same components) as my Mondeo, the handling was about the same too.

Totting it up when I was leaving my last job, in the 12 years I was in field service, project engineer and national manager roles, I did nearly 760,000 miles, of which well over 500,000 were in very large vans. Nae bother.

The existing C1 licence for 3.5-7.5t goods vehicles doesn't really make sense anymore with the improvements in large vans either, the dailies I was driving can be updated to 7t with nothing more than new rear springs and drive completely differently to a old school 7.5T like a eurocargo with the air brakes and cabover design which is much more like a HGV, and requires a much higher level of driver awareness/attention.

I currently have a reasonably big pickup as my only vehicle (live down a muddy track up a hill, tow a trailer and use it for winching), and frequently amuse myself with how people driving much smaller SUV's, crossovers and even hatchbacks failing miserably to park, maneuver and judge the space around themselves on the road; it's particularly gratifying to see them fail only to slot the lumbering mass of my Hilux in first time.

My partner normally drives an MX5 these days, but can hop in the Hilux and manoeuvre it just as well as I can, having initial started driving in a hand-me down Mondeo, and having been expected to drive pickups, vans and tractors as part of her job as an Agri-Biologist.

My conclusion is that it's drivers and not vehicles that are the problem, we should be requiring people to take their test in larger cars with a larger turning circle representative of the most awkward vehicles they will drive, not pass in a Polo then drive a Range Rover or a Ford Kuga badly, there are already minimum size, payload and turning circle requirements for the higher licence classes to make them representative tests, so it could be done.

But far more importantly we should require mandatory periodic retesting or update training for all drivers, a bit like the commercial driver CPC scheme...

This is sometimes suggested as an age related thing, but that's wrong headed, my grandmother could drive with the best of them well into her 80's, but I have friends who have had licences for only 5 years who I honestly wouldn't get in a car with because they've allowed their skills to atrophy.

The reason I feel strongly that light commercial vehicles should be a core part of the standard "Catagory B" licence is that it would otherwise takes away another layer of people's ability to do things independently without paying out to some company.

Having to shell out upwards of 5k to get an additional license to hire a van for the day or run my pickup would have made impossible to pursue my existing hobbies, impossible to help friends out with recovering and repairing their vehicles, and added hundred if not thousands of pounds to the cost of the 7 house moves (yay rental market!) I've had to do in the last decade; it would also have imposed huge costs on my former employers to either maintain an even bigger vehicle fleet, or get large numbers of staff on an additional license.

Edited By Jelly on 09/04/2023 15:17:40