Member postings for Ivan Schuch

Hi Rob,

in orientation B the bolt is taking the complete cutting force. The boss holding the HSS bit cannot rotate 180 degrees to reverse the slope of the toolbit as it has a pin that locates in the shank. This is visible in the image below.

I made a mistake in the previous post.

- Feed arrow is the direction of the tool attacking the material.

- The tool is leading the shank, not following.

Thank you all for the replies.

I am leaning towards first grinding the end to see how deep it is hardened. I have measured again and need to reduce the shank from 24 to 20mm in the cutting direction. The tool will be used on a 24” planer.

I am however unsure of the orientation of the tool in the clapper box. The square bolt pushes the cutter into the rotating boss and the nut pulls the boss against the shank.Should the tool be leading (Orientation A) or following (Orientation B) the tool holder? I ask this as I’m unsure if it is best to leave the hardened face towards the base of the lantern or towards the clamping bolt of the lantern.

I under estimated the size of this tool holder when buying it online and have to remove 2mm off 3 sides to make it fit in a lantern tool post. It has “hardened” stamped on the shank and a HSS end mill was ruined trying to macine it. Will a carbide cutter suffice or should I try to anneal it? Any help will be appreciated.

Squires model and craft tools. Page 6 on the materials catalogue:

http://www.squirestools.com/files/Materials%20Jan%202020.pdf

Thank you all for the advice,

I followed Emgee’s sequence as I don’t have soft jaws and was not concerned about marking on the part. I however ended up making a 50mm split collet to hold the part in the 3 jaw as my chucks front most outside jaws could not close to 40mm. It worked great.

Ivan

I want to turn a thin router guide bush adapter from a square aluminium piece. I planned the sequence in the image attached. I’m worried about facing the square in step 7 when holding the part on only 2.5mm of material. Any advise will be appreciated.

Ivan

Hi to all,

Some time ago I acquired a proxxon SD300 baby lathe with the intention to fabricate a merlin hot end for my 3D printer. Tinkering with the lathe turned out to be far more challenging and satisfying than slicing and printing bits of plastic. The printer box now forms a stand for the lathe and I am spending most of my free time researching and making bits for the lathe. I am joining this forum in the hope of actually finding something useful to make.

Any suggestions are welcome.

Heat and pressure may do the trick, Search “Honeywell lcd screen fix”