Member postings for damian noble

Thanks Ian

I've had a quick look and tap but it's still in there? more penetrating fluid down it but it's plenty of time till I get around to putting the head back together.

Been cleaning up the Knee today and done quite a bit of white painting. Second coat to do then I can shuffle the garage around and position the mill where I want it.

Damian

Thanks for commenting Nick and for the tip on the mats. I'd noticed those in your pic and thought it a good Idea.

As well as it being in bits and painted its an opportunity to get to know the machine intimately and make sure everything is as it should be and replace bits if necessary.

Just my opinion but a clean machine will work better and wear less as will any mechanical item. Yes it's going to get used and grubby but I'll try to keep it something like.

Threads where people rebuild something are useful as some of the info isn't out there any more. The amount of help and advice is great.

More pics soon

Damian

Next up I need to paint the door interior off white, finish off the lip of the column and the inside of the pulley box for the S type head .

I cleaned up the cross slide which also needs a bit of paint underneath.

I can then reassemble the large parts and get the garage back to looking something like tidy!

Another coat of TS green paint and then I did the interior of the column and base the off white. I also took off all the masking

Managed to get some painting done. After priming all the parts it was out with the Tom Senior green

First off the main Column, door and head assembly

Then the base and drip tray.

I've used about half a litre up to press and it needs some more to make all the surfaces glossy. It has painted quite well and to say it was my first time spraying with a little compressor I really got into it.

I took the name plate off the S-Type head to a local firm who will see what they can do. I'm waiting for them to get back to me but one off's aren't cheap.

The original base name plate I'm going to bead blast and then try to match the red colour could do with searching out the best colour for it? Humbrol enamel?

More soon

Damian

The paint has arrived today so all set for finishing. Just need to get the main column finished with the filler and the etch primer can go on everything.

Thanks for posting Alan. It looks a very useful and well done addition.

I guess there should be a concors although I very much doubt mine will be up there.Whilst its in bits I might as well fettle it a little was my thoughts.

The mill will be used primarily for machining small aluminium parts but as you say most owners always try to get the biggest jobs they can on the table.

I dont envisage a problem with the tram as the head will only infrequently be pulled forward (blue moons spring to mind) and I could always machine a block to replace the one thats there that extends over the top of the scale.

I'll get it back together something like first, inverter and dro fitted before tinkering further.

Damian

Cheers Nick for the very quick reply.

It's amazing what a bit of paint and affection does for anything.What a transformation and a pleasure to look at and use I imagine. Worlds tidiest workshop too

I was thinking of ordering a litre to be on the safe side and half a litre of off white.

Thanks again

Damian

Hi Nick

I've been on the Paragon paints website and had a look at the colour. There are different finishes on it? Did you go for gloss?

Over the last couple of days I have cleaned up the door which is now ready for a coat of paint.

Also the head casting as much as I could smoothing out the majority of the rough parts so I could use the bare minimum of body filler.

One side was a little rougher than the other but all is smooth and ready for the paint. I have also been working on the base, suds tray and the column but with these being larger and a lot rougher in places I've had the angle grinder out to smooth off the worst bits.

More work over the next few days and I've got to order the paint. Standard colour enamel and then white/off white for the inside.

I'm really looking forward to the spraying as it will mean I'm moving on and can at least get some of the large bits assembled. Need to also order some anti vibration levelling feet.

More soon

Damian

Edited By damian noble on 29/08/2016 19:18:01

Hi Andy,

Thanks

I have seen quite a few rebuilds on these and people seem to pour a great amount of time and patience into each well sought after one. I am just picking up on their experiences.

The E type has the same head so I believe

I used a three leg sykes pickevant puller on the pulley but after removing both the grub screws (and locking screw) it extracted really easy.

I will try to post as many photos as possible. Hoping to get some paint on it by next weekend

Damian

Welcome to the forum. Great set of guys here ask away and you'll get answers

Damian

Thanks Ian that explains a lot. Its been 25 years since I even looked at an imperial micrometer back in the training centre. Will take some converting in the old grey matter.

I think it will be the DRO route for me has the set up that you put on been reliable?

I've  today cleaned up the head casting with a dremel and put some plop (filler) on to prep for paint. Also done the base, door and lots of sanding.

I've not looked at removing the taper. Has anyone replaced the spindle bearings. The manual says timken precision taper bearings. Mine feel a bit sticky so may just need a strip and grease.

Damian 

Edited By damian noble on 28/08/2016 22:35:35

And the Y feed and table raise

Heres the x feed

Hi Ian thanks for the advice the taper is still soaking .

I'm looking at the micrometer scales but unsure if they are metric as they look that way to me. A bit of education wouldn't go a miss on these though. I intend to fit a DRO so won't be relying on them.

Heres the quill feed

Edited By damian noble on 28/08/2016 13:17:17

This morning I stripped the S type head so I could paint the housing.

The whole assembly came apart quite easily but I left the clarkson autolock chuck in. I'd slackened off the draw bar and gave it a tap (as I've done on other machines) but the MT2 seems to be stuck in? Daft question but am I doing this wrong guys I've left it overnight until some penetrating oil seeps through. I thought I'd check back before damaging anything.

With it all stripped it was into the glass bead blaster, protecting the various orifices that hold the quill etc. It is only very gentle unlike the shot blaster that I used on the column door.

The results on the head below

I also did the end plates from the table screw

With a bit more cleaning and refining to do it will be a while before it is paint stage.

Damian

Thanks for that Mark. I have a small spraying set up available so all is good on that front. I shall be going down the primer route as I agree it gives a better finish but I still have lots more prep to do on the pieces until the paint stage which I shall try to get done this weekend.

Damian

Edited By damian noble on 25/08/2016 22:23:30

Hi all,

The suds tray has had the small screw holes tigged up and have now been dressed back. A little filler and the tray can now be painted.

I was going to initially use UPOL acid etch #8 as I've seen this done on another forum when restoring machinery but there are others and paragon paints sell various self thinned ones which will work out cheaper. Any other suggestions would be welcome though. I have access to a small compressor and spraying equipment so I intend to spray it up in the original colour enamel which apparently can be sprayed direct to bare metal although I have always used a primer.

I think a few on the forums have bought from here.

**LINK**

The interior of the column and base I will go for the off white colour enamel again from paragon

**LINK**

I have already started to strip the S type head down to sand blast the parts for paint. I will then check everything before re-assembly.

Cheers for reading and any help guys

Edited By damian noble on 25/08/2016 09:31:56