Member postings for Dave Smith the 16th

I set my bed to 60 degrees for PLA, but i have a glass plate on top of the bed (4mm thick) so its probably a touch cooler.

Try a pritt stick on the bed surface, on mine the bed heats then the the nozzle heats, i dont like them to both heat from cold. When the nozzle gets to 180 degrees i give the print area a quick rub with the pritt stick so its nice and sticky. Print temperature is 215 degrees.

I also find some PLA's print better than others. Down to the brands or the colours? Not sure yet.

I tend to print a raft also. This helps, not had a PLA part curl or peel off the bed siince.

Edited By Dave Smith the 16th on 23/04/2017 01:53:26

I have a CTC 3D printer with an aluminium bed and originally blue painters tape.

I added a glass plate (£ shop cheap glass from a photo frame). I use pritt stick glue and it works extremely well for PLA. ABS is a pain though.

Pritt stick works initially but the part soon warps and lifts, tried the ABS slurry and i have yet to get the consistency right.

Probably need to enclose the entire printer to keep the heat in??

I tried the cheap stuff and that didnt work well either. Pritt stick works. Also tried PVA glue and that works sometimes.

One tip is once you have a layer of pritt stick on the bed. Give it a quick wipe with a damp cloth asd the bed and nozzles heat up. This makes the glue really sticky. Works for me anyway.

Tubalcain on youtube has done some rust removal videos recently, he used molasses and it appears to work. A bit slow but it appears safe.

I have tinkered with electrolytic rust removal and it works well, spotted an article that emphasised not to use bicarbonate of soda but soda crystals. Curious as to why i had to try it and it still worked. Took a bit longer but fine.

The big problem is its an instant rust magnet, blink and the part is rusty again.

PS. which edition did you review it?  Thanks

Edited By Dave Smith the 16th on 18/04/2017 20:59:47

You could make some rough and ready angle blocks, or V blocks or how about a tachometer sensor holder and a push bolt to lock the spindle on an SX2 mill. Small square frame as a one off holder to cut a gear at an angle? Or a T=Rex or some runners for the sliding doors on a steel shed or some hinges for a shower screen or.... Insert endless list.

I think i did purchase an R8 to ER32 collet holder. Bought a full set of ER32 collets (1mm to 20mm) i think

for less than £50. I only opened one to have a look and it seemed very good and probably more than accurate enough for my needs.

Having a play with freecad and just using the part editor with basic shapes got this.. Only working from images on a google search which is tricky because there appears to be many different versions.

Sorry guys, Had a family bereavement and not been back much.

Uploaded the STL to thingiverse. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2243811

Its still attached to the mill and working, although its not been used much since

i started this thread.

Here is the 4 digit tacho display housing which includes a battery holder also.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2243837

Has anyone else made one yet or suggested improvements?

Edited By Dave Smith the 16th on 12/04/2017 10:02:40

Have you looked to see if they have a simulator? Ive seen an Arduino one somewhere. You write the code and it pretends to be uploading to an Arduino and the simulator shows the output.

So many options out there now, all slightly unique in some way. I have Arduino boards but needed the Lauchpad for the DRO project. But it still has issues with my calipers.

Would have been cheaper to keep the Arduino and buy new calipers..

Oh well i didnt like food anyway, what can i spend tomorrows dinner money on?

OH MY....... NO!!! not another project I have 1001 on the go already...

Bought the mill recently and a rake of bits for it and my pockets are empty. Missus has this strange obsession with shopping for food etc. Can't be doing that when i need toois

And yes, its for the lathes rev counter.  I had to change the voltage regulator and some caps because that stopped working.

Edited By Dave Smith the 16th on 11/07/2016 19:32:13

Will order some 1/2" or 3/4" thick plates and have a go at making one. Will mild steel be sufficient?

My local place can take a week or so to cut small parts though.

I never seem to make standard parts, where do you get an 8TPI tap from thats 8mm diameter?

Do i just make it longer or is it worth adding a 2nd slot?

Why not an Arduino or a TI launchpad?

Lauchpad just under £10 for the kit and an Arduino for 1/4 of that. I bought some Uno clones for £1.50. I was not expecting them to arrive but they did all 5 of them with shielded USB cables. All work a treat and you can get the smaller boards very cheap also.

Edited By Dave Smith the 16th on 10/07/2016 00:26:13

As Jason said, nothing missing. No reverse option on the 2109, although i have seen a website, Steve? who fitted an extra arm with a gear to add reverse. He modified the gearbox cover also.

A longer Banjo is really needed.

I tried the 66/20 gear setup for my 8 TPI giving me 3.3 instead of 3.175, close enough, but that only left space on the banjo for a 60T gear. that had to move down very slighty and only meshed by the tip of the teeth. I didnt have room for a spacer to secure the gear also. I ran it on its slowest speed but the rattle from the gear didnt sound nice.

I think threading an 8mm hole with 8TPI is beyond me. How do you make a rigid bar to thread aluminium at that size? I tried a valve stem bent over but its too flexible.

Thanks.

I did grind the nut slighty to round it off otherwise the 60 would not have meshed either. The teeth would have grated but not meshed properly.

The bar length does seem to be the limiting factor. If i extend it slightly and maybe add a 2nd slot for a main drive gear it wont affect the gear ratio will it? Just had a thought it may not change the ratio but it will change the direction. Perfect pitch threads but all left hand

Select smaller orders below and it takes you to various shops like the PiHut £13 Single Board and £16 for the starter kit.

Just getting into Arduino myself, but needed a Ti launchpad for another project, why do i keep finding new projects?

This is the 60 tooth fitted in the uppermost position, i had to grind the nut to move it this high on the bar.

Swinging the arm over, and it only just makes it, It will almost swing under the spindle gear but not quite.

I tried the 1.75 thread and it came out way off. I cannot remember what it actually cut. I tried several calculators and they were off. But i did suss it out, it seems a failed hard drive and old age has crept up on me and i have forgotten what worked.

Thanks for putting up with me.

Sorry guys, i got distracted with other projects but now need to rattle my brain on this one.

I have a chart of what gears to use but its useless, the ones in orange will not physically fit onto the bar or in the space between the leadscrew gear and the top of the bar the gears attach to.

There are probably more that do not work, but not had a chance to try them yet. I think the 1.75 comes out wrong also?

What am I missing? Someone please knock some sense into me Thanks.

A 60tooth gear in the A position only just reaches the spindle gear, i had to grind a small chamfer in the locking nuts. Anything less will not reach the 40tooth spindle gear. 

Manual must be for an old model where they changed the design and possibly even the leadscrew pitch?

Thanks

Edited By Dave Smith the 16th on 09/07/2016 02:32:54

Yeah it just started out as how can i lock the spindle without drilling holes in the new mill. The front 2 fixing screws were an obvious choice because the first thing i did was remove the guard. I just stand that on the front plate to deflect the chips. I always wear eye protection, safety glasses for quick jobs and a full face shield for jobs where the glasses tend to steam up.

I may have a little idea forming, i will email you in a couple of days. Not used to writing articles though, too many years on the internet and bad habits have set in

there Maybe no capitals or in the Wront places, And Full stops are on a strict diet

PS. Did i mention im lazy and only like starting jobs and not finishing them? 

Edited By Dave Smith the 16th on 09/07/2016 02:00:49

How much detail?

Internally, The larger chamber on the right is where the spring sits.

And in practice, this is what came out of the 3D printer.... Sorry for the poor pictures, you can almost see the LCD RPM readout on the top. I have not made a case for that as yet. Its just perched there.

Very little visibly wiring when its done, i may power it off an internal battery?

Bolt on the front pushes in to lock the spindle, one thumb required, spring internally ensures the bolt cannot stay engaged. Just a temporary setup a proper hardened rod will be used.

Rev counter probe fitted into the rear. Magnet glued to spindle, well in theory.. My glue didnt hold it?

Mounted using the 2 guard fixing bolts. Not other holes required.

Anything wrong with my setup? Have i missed something

Thanks

Was not sure where to post this?

Having recently bought the SX2p Mill from ARC one thing i didn't like was having to get the little tool to lock the spindle. Seen some ideas on the net, but mostly they are for the gear driven ones where they have a plunger on the top.

Whillst doing the design in Freecad i thought why not include a rev counter also.

The first thing i did to the mill was remove the plastic shield, ideally i wanted to use those. I came up with this..

What do you think?