Member postings for not done it yet

I only counted 3.

The option, to start with first, is reducing the preload, if that is an option in your case and it is more than necessary/prescribed. The same situation would arise with the next set of bearings if the preload is excessive. Sort out the simple possibilities first - it is generally easier, faster and less expensive.

But you should have some idea (as clogs intimated) if this is a new problem or one carried over from before overspeeding your spindle (may have still got hot, given sufficient time, at a lesser speed), or is a developing fault.

Is the temperature rise continuing or terminal at this ten minute interval? If it only occurs when overspeeding, the answer is simple enough. Stop doing it!

How often is speed, in excess of design, really required? I could run my VFDs at x4 (or even x8?) of normal frequency, but I don't. I know it is not safe to do that.

Going into the red area on your car tacho, regularly, is not going to do the engine any favours. Ocasionally for a short period may be OK (or they should have fitted a rev limiter!). A similar analogy, here, I would sggest.

I, for one, did not categorically say 'change the bearings'. That is your choice. Bearings often give some warning of imminent failure. Noise is one, overheating is another, vibration yet another. Lewis Hamilton's engine failure in Malaysia(?) occurred without warning, apparently, and totalled the engine. That was an expensive failure! But they do continually run close to the mechanical limits!

2 options, as I see it. As clogs above, or there is some means of preload/axial thrust which has been set too tight - any warming may well exacerbate the preload - and into a downward spiral of too much heat causing more pre-load/thrust.

1.89m

Like many topics, this one is a tad short on detail. How deep are the threads to be screwed into? 2mm might require a different approach than if the thread could be 20mm. Are the screws 'bottoming out' in the thread?

CL500M

That(?) is what I bought, many years ago. Never really used the milling option (need a good riser block for a start). It is currently in pieces (to remove it from its location) and will be rebuilt for moving on. I never really got on so well with it and have since replaced it by a Raglan LittleJohn MkIi. Superior, IMO, than a myford - a boxford might be better (but generally a younger item?).

A Raglan 5" would, in hindsight, have been even better, but at more initial cost. I will admit that some aspects were definitely due to my inexperience in metal cutting, at the time. My wood machining experience was rather better than metal machining at the time!

My Raglan with QCGB, rapid long travel traverse (compared to the CL) and powered cross feed was far less money. It needed a good going over (due, largely, to storage circumstances) but I would now never go back to the CL.  Fiddling with V belts, change wheels and manual long and cross travel (or slow long travel using the powered feed) is a phase of my experience which is now well in the past!

The smaller model 430 might be a more manageable option (sufficient swing for your needs?). I am biased - the Raglan lathe and mill both have my admiration and I much prefer the old iron. I also have a Centec mill, which is both horizontal and vertical, really heavily built and will perform as good as, or better than, a modern chinese offering (which will be built down to a price rather than up to a quality) in the price range.

I would suggest you have a look at the older british product fora, to get a feel of the possible problems and the claimed advantages of ownership, before deciding. There are yahoo and freeforums groups (as well as a search on this forum, of course). Just don't be rushed into a decision. Time is on your side. Mistakes can be costly.

Edited By not done it yet on 21/12/2016 07:48:49

My take.

The thread, while obviously a large part of the job, is nowhere near as important as the register. It can even be a bit loose, as long as it holds the back plate (and chuck) in position safely and securely.

The register is, by far, more important than the thread and accuacy is paramount for this aspect of the job.

The spigot for the chuck is also an important feature, which will need cutting accurately on y

our lat

he.

I would be requesting confirmation of accuracy before purchase and then measure carefully before accepting the items for use. (See above re accuracy of some purchased items) JohnF may well be right on that point.

You don't give any indication of sizes required. I note that Arc items, in steel, cost less than £100 for five, delivered (sizes 5" and less).

In your circumstances, buying in is the better option IMO, what with your admitted inexperience (good on yer!). I consider you have made the right decision. Perhaps buy in most and make the odd larger one as an experience exercise - it could always be used as a drive plate for turning between centres, if it were not quite good enough as a backplate.

Where do I find the thermostat on a 2B?

Hugh,

My 'puter says I sent a total of six emails to you, on the 18th. Nothing returned as not delivered. I will attempt to resend after our meal.

Edited By not done it yet on 20/12/2016 20:18:44

Don't know how you might do it, but I would snip off a tiny piece and pop it in our kiln. Could even compare it with the other sample.

I remember someone who once picked up a new palladium/gold crucible, thinking it was platinum and subjected it to 'loss on ignition' temperature of over 1000 Celsius. That was an expensive mistake!

Take it to your local college is one option, if you don't have a kiln, and ask for help?

OK, what are the benefits of s shaper for the average hobbyist? Internal keyways seem to be the main advantage?

What else, really important, is there that could not be done with a vertical and horizontal milling machine? Most internal keyways could be cut (slowly) on a mill or lathe. Or is it just convenience?

Circlip may be right but it might help if the poster indicated how much needs to be cut off (or left on).

Might it be the capacitance values in your converter causing the eneven currents?

I'm no expert on anything but that seems, to me, to be a likely area for investigation.

Simply pinned so they do not move at those interfaces. Movement between parts is then restricted to the surfaces/areas where lubrication is afforded.

Edited By not done it yet on 19/12/2016 07:08:52

Old lathes in good condition do come up for sale, as do some real tat - well worn out and possibly beyond redemption without spending far more for restoration than it is worth.

A beginner may not realise whether it is the operator or machine which is at fault if poor results are abundant.

Modern machines (imported from cheap labour sources) built down to a price may not be too durable - whereas the old iron in good condition may well last far better than the new stuff.

You mention milling - are you intending to mill on the lathe or purchase a dedicated milling machine

? Discrete machines are nearly always the better option - less re-mounting of parts during the machining process, better rigidity and generally more robust than 'add-on' conversions. There are exceptions, of course, but fewer and further betwe

en!

I would likely lean towards a new lower cost machine, initially, if you have no mechanical 'nous' and progress to a more 'competent' machine later, as your experience grows. This likely means some steepish depreciation but hedges against the possibility of eventual larger financial loss should you decide against continuation in the ho

bby (ie start small and upgrade later). I now have old iron and I don't think they will depreciate (likely the opposite!).

Hello Pete,

I am wondering if the trip is caused by overload or a low voltage relay (for protection against restarts after power loss).

If the latter, changing around the phase connections to your motor might just sort your problem.

RAB

They are, or should be, winging their way to you.

There is other info there. Binswood seems to be a knowledgeable character on the forum. A mixture of armchair and practical posters as on any forum.

I'not sure what info you might get from lathesdotco, but I suspect the 'manuals' on epay are no better than the downloads from the appropriate fora. I know the Raglan ones are just a rip-off and likely a tenner for nothing more than what is available from the forum.

As the yahoo place is such a mess for trying to navigate anywhere with my tablet, I will send another couple of items I have gleaned.

Hugh,

If you go to the centec yahoo forum there is a file for setting up these machines. It includes spanner and allen key sizes required. An Imperial adjustable wrench will do for most nuts, I would think. Shame yours is metric!

I can send you an alternative version (or both). One is longer than the other, but the shorter one has a slightly better drawing (can't remember what extra detail, but I know I keep both of them).

The headroom for the drawbar is not necessarily a particular problem. A bit of lateral drawbar design would allow you to feed it in from below. That is what I will need to do if I have my 120mm riser block in place. Turning the head and then needing to re-tram seems a pain to me.

I, too, was lucky with my machine. Good order, with stand, long travel power feed and dro (3 axis + one on the quill). Just needs a repaint to almost look like new!

A three phase supply is an extravagance for most. Three phase for the occasional drive can easily be derived from the single phase domestic supply for lower powered drives.

Not an electrical expert, but as I see it, the advantages of a three phase motor are that it gets an energy 'kick' every 120 degrees, self starts and has even power pulses - so is generally smoother in operation than a single phase motor (with run capacitor) or a 2 pole motor. They are likely a little more efficient (neither here nor there for hobbyists!) and tend to come in smaller frame sizes (415V)  for equivalent power output (with reliability). They are easy candidates for variable speed control, which makes them a favoured choice, for many, in conjunction with a variable frequency drive (VFD) running from a single phase domestic supply.

Edited By not done it yet on 18/12/2016 07:37:13

Looks like some improvements, perhaps. I've not read (or watched?) The thread you mention.

Seems some were unnecessary, mind!

What took my immediate attention, right at the end was how you missed the frequency of this 'knock' remaining the same, wherever the belt was fitted on the variable speed pulleys!

Time may tell, whether the needle bearings are as good as the original design. I would only make a modification if there was a known design weakness with a machine, obsolescence, or clear improvement in technology. I reckon those that design these things are far more clever, than I, at that.

He doesn't because rh is for non flam and lh is for flam gases?