Member postings for Men Ifr

Roy is that this thread

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=99795&p=2

I can see you have made some drill bits bit I'm not clued up enough to understand what you did? Did you cut them out of carbide?

In the same thread was a good suggestion to use a bar and cutting paste -

I will try 1 - the glass cutting cheapo bits I have if that fails a bar and cutting paste if I can get hold of some but to get something working grinding a slot with an angle grinder will suffice.

I'm in Coventry - I've never found a metal merchant in Coventry but there is one in Nuneaton the problem is that makes it a 2 hour round trip in reality.

Deleted didnt read last post 

Edited By Men Ifr on 10/11/2016 17:34:49

Found this pic - the guy is using the same mill as mine and seems perfectly happy with a 4" vice hanging off it...

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Wavy+Parallels&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwio0tzWoJ7QAhVRF8AKHfp4C2MQ_AUICCgB&biw=1904&bih=925#imgrc=Vd7peXTLq2ZiCM%3A

I could do with some parallels as well....

Ummm I still don't know but could do with ordering one very soon.

My thoughts are I don't mind paying an extra £25 for the versitile vice over the radial one and I'm less bothered about being able to mount it along the bed now.

The problem (if it is one) is it would be the vice would mount across the bed so its 300mm long and the bed is 110mm wide so overhangs at each end 100mm.... (is that so bad?)

That would get me 100mm jaws parallel to the bed so larger pieces that overhang the jaws will be fine.

So I'd be willing to try that (the 100mm version)

The alternative would be a 70mm precision vice (£60) or the 90mm version (£105)

So the 70mm version... immediately the 1st items I need to machine could not be done without repositioning so I don't think that's any good

And the 90mm version - well it's expensive (£105 + clamps) and I'm not convinced it can clamp pieces strong enough so they won't move - In my training days to hold a workpiece you put it in the massive vice then hit the handle with a hammer - these precision vices have a single small looking allen bolt responsible for all the tightening and even then 1//2 the force is tightening and 1/2 the force pulling the jaw straight.... am I wrong about this? Also an allen key is not as comfortable in the hand compared to a normal vice handle.

However on the plus size the 90mm version jaws open 120mm compared to 80mm for the versitile vice (however the versitile vice could handle upto 280mm if the jaws are re-arranged)

And another plus for the precision vice would be the overall length is 210mm so each and may overhang ~50mm from the workbed compared to the 100mm overhang for the versitile vice..)

More thoughts?

Matthew

You mean one of these: http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Workholding/Machine-Vices/Precision-Tool-Vices-Type-2

?

What is the benefit of these over the type of vices I listed? I see they are more expensive but I don't understand why, also the length of the moveable jaw is less so I would expect more issues with the jaw lifting? Also how do you bolt it to the bed?

The choice is from 2 vices on arc euro trade

1st

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Workholding/Machine-Vices/ARC-Versatile-Milling-Vices-with-swivel-base

The 100 mm versitile vice - has a design so the moveable jaw does not lift - the versitility may come in handy BUT there are only 2 mounting holes on the vice so it cannot be mounted perpendicular to the table on my SPG 9512 mill with its narrow table. (or not without the swivel base)

It is £75

2nd choice is the cheaper £52 100mm

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Workholding/Machine-Vices/Radial-Milling-Vices

It has 4 mounting holes on the vice itself so can be mounted parallel or perpendicular to the bed which is an advantage - but will the (assumed) lower quality cause problems mounting work?

My Mill is: http://www.spgtools.com/viewtool.php?pid=22

Edited By Men Ifr on 09/11/2016 22:36:22

Should I give up on these and continue to use the angle grinder for fear of damaging more cutters?

I'll try a new tool - I have some chinese cutters now - reluctant to try another sherwood ££!.

I'll try a low DOC and feed in faster. I will also try some other steel first in case it is the material of the nuts.

So what if I try - some old mild steel - 0.5mm DOC 4 flute 5mm chinese cutter at 1200rpm and 1.5mm/sec feed speed?

I'll buy a magnifying glass to look at the old cutter.

I did this on a corner - it filed easily but I'm wondering if there is something about this steel that is causing problems?

After the initial problems - with the same cutter I successfully cut the 'T' part of two T nuts - this time I was feeding a bit faster and using climb milling. After 4 more cuts then the mill was no longer cutting well - again taking excess pressure on the handwheel - vibration and squeeling from the workpiece/cutter. When I looked at this workpiece it was not cutting cleanly - more like pushing the metal out of the way.

Not in reverse - I think feeding in too slow may have been the problem last time - so think I should be going faster - 10mm is my largest cutter...

I think this or the hardness of the material is the problem - I've since made a little spreadsheet based on calculations from an american site. If I feed in at 1 handwheel turn in 2 seconds = 3mm I should have 220rpm with a 4 flute 10mm cutter does that sound right?

As a beginner it's having the confidence to 'ram' the cutter into the work - particularly before I started out with the calculations above which show I need to slow the RPM a lot. If I picked a mid rpm on my machine e.g. 1000 I don't think I could turn the handwheels fast enough to meet the desired linear feed rate!

No - workpiece was in the middle of the range of x/y adjustment - I locked Y and Z axis which does seem to help a bit and fed in via X.

Thanks for all the replies - some answers: