Member postings for Vernon Harrod

I've got a new Sievert torch for sale in classified ads right now!

Regards,

Vernon

Thanks for the tip Sam.

The original installation had the shaft pinned to the lower UJ and was a sliding fit with the upper drive shaft which featured a keyway. I'll use a slot drill to cut the keyway because it's straight into the shaft.

Plan now is to turn the end of a 1/2" shaft to force fit into the UJ. Drill and taper pin. Place shaft in chuck and turn OD of one end of UJ body to 15/16". Fit and pin shaft with keyway to other end of UJ. Cut first shaft to length to suit knee housing gearbox. Apply new gaskets. Fill gearboxes with oil. Stand back and admire my work.

Vernon

Thanks for the recent replies.

Speedy, it's to reinstate the table drive on my Tom Senior mill. I'd have to take the knee off and machine the PB housing to change that end. and I don't fancy that.

Circlip - I've tried at length but can't avoid all the trunnions.

Gordon - I think you've put me on the right path. I can see how that would work. Thanks

Regards,

Vernon

Thank you all for your advice. The clear message is don't dismantle the UJ so I'll take that on board.

The reason I've had problems mounting one end on a 3 or 4 jaw chuck is that the trunnion ends are slightly proud of OD of the main body and at least one always interfere with at least one of the jaws. I had thought of grinding the trunnion ends down below the OD and then trying to mount it in a chuck and I guess I'd have to go that way if I sought to use a split collar.

Bit more thinking about then I'll give it a go.

Thanks again.

Vernon

Hi,

I have purchased a metric UJ from RS Components and need to undertake some machining to make the bore and OD suitable for my requirement. The slightly protruding trunnions have made me give up trying to hold the UJ in either 3 or 4 jaw chucks). To that end I'm seeking advice on how to dismantle the UJ please. The centre block has a line etched across one face and I'm thinking that would be the continuous trunnion and I'm planning to drift it out. However the opposite housing piece has a letter "c" engraved on it which could also mean continuous. I've got a couple of snaps. Any advice most gratefully received! Cheers, Vernon

Hi,

I have a Tom Senior M1 from 1968 which I purchased recently. The table drive is missing some parts but I’m keen to reinstate it. I have the gearbox, upper UJ and upper drive shaft, together with both drive shaft covers and the upper fixing for the cover. I also have the final drive worm.

Unfortunately the drawings in the operators’ manual show the earlier version of the table drive where the drive sits in an ancillary box on the side of the saddle. The version I have has the drive going directly into the saddle.

I think I’m resigned to building new components to replace those missing ones but I don’t know whether that’s feasible because I don’t know what the parts should look like. Accordingly I’d appreciate some help please.

The first and most obvious request is to ask whether anyone has any spares relating to the later type of M1 table. Unlikely I know but I have to ask!

My second request is for photos of the table end of the drive. I’d like to have good detail of how the drive enters the knee and then how it’s rigged up within. I’m struggling to understand how the thrust from the worm is dealt with.

I’ve tried asking this on the TS Yahoo group and I’ve had some help but not exactly what I need. It’s worth mentioning that Hywel who posts on here has been most helpful. But unfortunately he has the earlier drive.

So, any help gratefully received.

Regards,

Vernon