Member postings for Kit White 1

Sussed it. It was a combination of both the handle screw thread play and gib screws. I undid the lock nut on the topslide handle wheel, adjusted and and retightened it, then adjusted the gib grub screws. Thanks for the suggestions guys.

How do you adjust the top slide on an ML7? Mine seems to lift up and down slightly, so simply adjusting the gib screws wouldn't eradicate this.

Hi all, thanks for your input.

I can't weld to it as it is aluminium and I don't want to damage it.

I need to tap a hole in the centre anyway, so a bolt wouldn't be going out my way anyway.

Here's my conundrum.: I have a piece of round 3.5" diameter (88.9mm) aluminum, and I want to turn it down by about .040" to 88mm. My chuck is too small to hold it, but I have 4 jaw that would, if it were longer than 20mm.

I need to drill a hole in the middle anyway, so is my best bet to drill the hole first, tap it for a bolt to hold it, then hold it the 4 jaw and use the dti to centralise it. Then, turn it on the bolt and turn down the diameter this way?

Hope this makes sense.

May try the local stockholders then, if I can verify the properties of it first.

Also, what is the approximate maximum size a 6" 4 jaw independent chuck will safely hold?

As per title really, teaching myself to use a lathe and need a small number of approximately 6" max. lengths of diameters up to 3", just for practicing. What's the cheapest place to get this sort of thing? Anywhere sell offcuts just as general "offcuts"?

What type? Should it be mt2 or one that screws onto the spindles external thread?

I have a 1/2" end mill. They have threaded ends on them like this: Whats the best way without spending hundreds of pounds of holding them in my ML7 Myford lathe's spindle? Can I make a holder out of mt2 stock steel bar with a 1/2unf 20tpi thread on the other end which matches the end mills thread, and just fit that in the spindle?

Properly restored, pictures to prove.

Thanks for the help guys, I have the handbook anyway.

The tailstock can move sideways when not locked. There's a block underneath with two alen keys to adjust it against the lathe ways. Is this what needs adjusting?

I wonder if any of you knowledgable folk can shine a light on my problem.

I am a newbie, having recently acquired a restored ML7 ,and want to teach myself how to use it. I have been reading books, watching youtube and practicing to try and find my way.

I want to drill a centre hole and using a centre/countersink drill in a Jacobs chuck, the moment it contacts the work it wobbles, describing an arc as though not straight. Keep advancing and the misalignment snaps the tool!! I feel the tailstock needs aligning. The locking lever can lock it in a different position if I slacken it, physically push the tailstock over, then lock it again, since there's play in the bed if not locked in position. Presumably this is normal?

I feel I am missing something embarassingly simple...

Ok, glad I asked now. I guess times have changed since The Ameteurs Lathe from 1948, hence my confusion. Is it better to get a revolving centre like this or get a good used old one? How do these cheaper, newer ones compare?

Thanks guys, turns out I had the correct undertanding first time round, I shouldn't doubt myself so much!! I am reading through the brilliant The Amateurs Lathe by L.H Sparey, but am just trying to put the meat on the bones, as it were.

My lathe already has the dead centre it came with, so its a carrier, faceplate and live/revolving centre I need.

Hello all, I'm new to lathes and have recently purchased a Myford ml7, of which I am trying to slowly accumulate a basic set of the necessary tools I will need for hobby use. With regards to turning between centres, exactky what tools/accessories do I need? Two centres, one live, one dead (tailstock needs the dead centre, correct), carriers, faceplate etc?

On reading up on this, the work appears to turn against the dead centre as it stays still, but does this not ear the taper out quickly?

Much better!!

OK, today I relocated the lathe and ditched the ply in favour of two lengths of 2x4" rectangular section steel. These bolt to the bottom of the lathe and then use rawl bolts through the floor as shown.

The lathe stand is much more stable on the floor, of course, but the lathe itself seems to rock on the stand still. The stand is not original Myford although is very convincing, but the feet which go between the lathe and the drip tray seem to flex the sheet metal on the drip tray top. I am hoping a flat steel plate to go under the drip tray on the roof of the inside (probably 3mm thick?) will cure this? Any suggestions?

Thanks chaps,. Here's current setup..

Hello all. I am new to lathes and need some advice on mounting my newly acquired ML7 Myford lathe stand (not original Myford but very convincing) to the workshop floor. The floor is flat but not level concrete. The lathe is on a stand, which has been put on a 12mm thick plywood board, but the stand has a slight wobble at the moment. I want to get rid of this, although the stand not being level isn't necessarily a concern by itself.

Is it best to a) shim the stand off the plywood until level or b), change the wood for a flat steel plate? I will sort out getting the lathe itself set level on the stand later on, once the wobble has been eradicated. As the wall behind is wooden, I may well also add some small angle iron to come from the stand/under the drip tray extending to the wall as extra support.

Any advice much appreciated!!