Member postings for Chris Evans 6

The way oil is most likely to be a "68" grade hydraulic oil which is pretty much industry standard. That is what I use on the oiling points of my old Taiwanese lathe.

Google "The Nipple Shop" (yes really is the name) a specialist lubrication sundries supplier. They may have what you need, phone if not listed on web page.

Welcome along Mark. Enjoy the lathe.

Only last year I gave a similar drill and stand to a friend, a new power cable and a general safety check and it is running again. A used item when I aquired it 50 years ago but has seen little use. Torque is amazing, a low speed but unstoppable whatever the load.

It is my belief that 1990s bikes are a lottery for thread due to so many parts being made in the east. I have made a new stem for one of my old motorcycles, screwcut at 26 tpi and brazed into the lower yoke.

One of the first things I was gifted when I started as a toolmaker apprentice in 1963 was a slide rule. I used the slide rule for most of my apprenticeship before passing it on to a new apprentice when I could afford a new one. I still have the slide rule and a circular one as well as 5 figure log tables. Nowadays several calculators are scattered around the workshop.

Welcome to the forum Karl. I am sure someone will know the answer.

I have seen the same or similar service offered on eBay listed under Colchester or Harrison lathes. I have re-furbished my own but a useful link for those requiring the service.

Welcome along to the forum.

There are many old posts re old industrial versus new Chinese lathe. I had an old 1942 built American Southbend for 45 years, It did most of what I needed to do, bigger stuff I took into work. With retirement approaching about 10 years ago I sold the old lathe and bought a used Taiwanese copy of a Harrison M300. Bigger machine and good enough for what I do.

The formula Ford engine builders now tend to use "K Line" ( memory for the name ?) Valve guides, these are pressed into the head and sizes achieved by pushing a hard ball bearing through the guide.

I have not used these myself because the engines I work on are pre war and tend to be agricultural in nature.

Taylor Jones as a reamer supplier comes to mind for the odd sizes required but at a cost.

Scary thing to happen, if your electrical knowledge is like mine do as Thor suggests and seek help. I run my M300 Taiwanese copy from a Transwave static inverter but would not delve into the wiring.

Welcome along to the forum, a lot of talented people on here so I am sure good advise will be had soon.

The idea has some merit but as I see it most people who a mini lathe appeals to are very inexperienced.

As for how deep to drill with a centre drill. I always shorten my centre drills to prevent the end breaking off, not often I use one smaller than number three (1/4" to suit the work I do. With a shortened centre drill 3mm or 1/8" is enough to still hold a bit of grease and not let the point of the centre bottom out. A drop of oil during use is a good practice to start.

Edited By Chris Evans 6 on 14/05/2021 08:04:58

Looks tidy although the paint flatters it. Useful readout on the quill. My machine is the same except for a 4" riser block in the turret.

I have used many mills over the years including "High End" Schaublin. For me the Bridgeport is the most versatile design for general use, especially for home use. Not the most rigid machine but very little that it can not do. Spares availability is good and plenty of machines around, patience is required to find one that is not to worn but they are around. Mine is a 2002 machine I have had around 10 years with little or no faults.

Welcome along, please do let us know your interests. I don't make models but old motorcycles keep me busy.

I have a cheapish "Draper" set on the wall behind my lathe. Main sizes used are 2.5 5 and 6mm. The set goes up to 10mm. No issues with them in 8 or 9 years of use.

For non fussy holes, clearance for bolts etc. I tend to go from pilot say 6mm to final 16mm but grind the 16mm drill a little off centre to make it cut oversize. This tends to stop the flutes rubbing but means drills doctored in this way need storing separately.

It has been over 40 years since I used a Master Toolmaker. Dull memory seems to think they had a two speed motor ? If so a little harder to run from inverter ?

Leave the Gib out, I made my radius (ball) turning attachment years ago with the same though of adding if required. Not a sign of wear and it is used most weeks.