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Member postings for Phill Spowart

Here is a list of all the postings Phill Spowart has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Ball bearing axleboxes
03/03/2018 20:16:35

Yep, was going to keep the outer shields on the bearings, with the separate seals as well it should be leak proof.

I was thinking oil would give less resistance, and be able to flow better into the bearings. In full size the grease gets forced in by gun, whereas I have no intention of making a 1/16 scale grease gun!

When I get myself organised, I'll start posting how it goes. Quick bit about me-this is my first proper attempt at a steam engine, but I've been a machinist in full size for a good 12 years-trams, jet engines and classic bikes. I did start on a Tich, having bought a rusty rolling chassis but after making a few bits I decided I'd rather put the effort into something more interesting. Much as I love LBSC's writing, his methods are very much of their time (imagine his joy at finding his local supermarket flogging ok-ish digital calipers!).

03/03/2018 19:53:15

Thanks for that. My thinking is that the ball bearings will take the side loads, but other than that it looks pretty similar?

03/03/2018 18:25:13

Also, wouldn't you get the same problem with needle bearings?

03/03/2018 18:19:59
Posted by Speedy Builder5 on 03/03/2018 18:15:13:

So what happens if the left hand wheel tries to drop further than the Right hand wheel ? I would have thought that you would need self aligning races if you are going for that sort of precision.
BobH

The clearance in the hornways would allow for that I think? It's how I've seen it done on full size narrow gauge practice. This is why I'm posting though, far easier to find the flaws before I build it

03/03/2018 18:01:48

Here's what I'm thinking of, this is a tender axlebox. Just realised I should have drawn the hole blind, not through, but you get the idea.

Green is a viton lip seal, red are ball bearings (2 per box), blue is a spacer for the internal races. The loco boxes would have a viton seal each side.

Not shown are oil plugs top and bottom. The gap round the spacer would be the oil reservoir, boxes would be filled after fitting on axles but before fitting into horns. My intent is that with the oil sealed in, it cannot escape while dirt is kept out. I'd have to drop the wheels out every so often for oil check/change.

axlebox.jpg

01/03/2018 19:06:32

Cheers, my plan is to have the bearings themselves unsealed, and use separate lip seals on the axle. I can then machine a recess in the axlebox for an oil bath. Pop in a fill and drain plug, and hopefully I'll get the least possible rolling resistance.

01/03/2018 18:36:28

Axlebox question: I'm tentatively starting on a 5" gauge Stirling single. I want to redesign the bogie axleboxes to use ball bearings. 12x18x4mm ball bearings look a good size to use. My question is, should I have one bearing in the centre of the axlebox, or would it be better to have two? I'll be fitting rubber seals too, so shouldn't be any problems with grit and muck getting in.

Edit-Or, I could use a 12x18x12 needle bearing plus two seals?

Edited By Phill Spowart on 01/03/2018 18:40:00

Thread: Mystery 5" bogie frames
21/02/2018 18:20:48
dscn7423.jpgA few years ago, I bought a set of 5" Stirling Single frames and wheel castings from station road steam. I've only just noticed that the bogie frames are completely wrong to the Reeves drawing, which presumably means they're from something else. Any ideas what? The main and tender frames are to the reeves drawing.
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