Member postings for BOB BLACKSHAW

Thanks for the advice, my rotary table is a Soba and its new and has no play and it feels tight, I was not climb milling but I done a fine cut .05mm and got the marks out, Perhaps my first cut .3mm caused the cutter to vibrate.

Thanks Bob

I used a new 4mm carbide end mill on mild steel using a rotary table and the results gave these marks. I used a higher speed as it was a carbide end mill rather than HSS, any ideas why this has happened, also tried a slower speeds but the same happened.

Bob

I don't listen to the radio, I don't buy a paper,very rarely watch BBC news ,but watch taking pictures,the wife tells me I'm in a time warp.

Bob

That's a good idea Grensands, I suppose silver steel hardened off with two slots for a spanner would work on steel.I to have a number of ME dies with a double lead, I would like to know why they are made like this.

Bob

Newbies to this its worth knowing that to get a drilled hole to size. Drill several holes to .1mm of size needed 6mm then stone the two cutting points of the drill 6mm and it will be on size, as this acts as a reamer. I have several drills ready done in a separate drill box and works well for me.

Bob

I to have the Picador style sharpener and find it took me a time to get it to grind the correct angles, my faults. I grind my drills by hand and have got very good results so the Picador sharpener is not used, so I recommend you get some old drills and practice and you will soon get good results. I am at a stage where I am making the grinding rest by Harrold Hall, but my grinder at the moment has two adjustable plates bolted on the grinder so I can get different angles to grind up HSS blanks also you can mark with a pen angles on the plates so to get approximate 59 deg for drill sharpening. All this works for me but would like to have a go at sharpening end mills with the advanced grinding rest.

Bob

I'm not taking over Ron`s thread here but noticed mechman`s Gerry`s beam engine on the photos, looks great hope mine comes out as well. That's me finished on this.

Bob

I found it's easy to make a mistake especially if you get distracted I don't have the confidence to slot drill from the start, I centre drilled a small mark on a complete 360 deg to check that all lines up. My r/t has a tight spot for a1/3rd of a turn so I going to have a look to see if this can be adjusted.

Bob

It's all looking good Ron, noted the Stubbs silver steel in the back ground, that jogged my memory and just ordered some Stubbs silver steel but I think it's made under another name.

Your flywheel wheel sets it off, I made one last week on my new rotary table, it took me at least twenty hours, so slow double checking I wasn't making a mistake, everything but came off a 9mm x 500mm x100mm blank, it would have been quicker marking it out than using the table.

Have you found your caliper gauge on the lathe helpful.

Bob

I have started to make the grinding rest from Harrold Hall but only the round parts so far. The rest calls for dovetail cutters can I get away using one cutter if so what size would be best as the cutters come in different diameters and angles, this may seem a odd question but I seem to buy stuff and find that I wished I had got another size.

Thanks Bob.

What size dovetail cutter would be recommended for this rest, and also Duncan noted that a magnet method rather than a dovetail what is meant by this.

Thanks Bob

Looking with interest Ron as I to have a 9x20 but Im using a clock for mine. I tried to drill and hacksaw a Aldi calliper a few years ago but it was so hard that the drills would not touch it and similar with the hacksaw .

Bob

Thanks Geoff,

I searched Gerry`s beam engine metric and found 21 drawings but this didn't cover all of the engine. But I've done the imperial drawing and still cant find the crankshaft connecting rod.

Bob

I started to make the Gerry`s beam engine a few years ago and gave up for some reason but had made the cylinder and a few other parts. I have started to see If I can finish it but with out the side plates but use a central pillar and use the dimensions on the drawing for the main bushes to locate. I know why I gave up on it as some of the parts are not on the drawings, has any one here got the dimensions for the crankshaft connecting rod centre to centre, I could have a try at guessing but I bound to be wrong.

Thanks Bob

Yep I made another mistake, in the manual 8 holes is 11 turns but the confusing thing it states part of turn 5/20 so yes its 5 spaces 20 states the holes in the plate.

Bob.

Edited By BOB BLACKSHAW on 16/05/2020 17:46:26

Edited By BOB BLACKSHAW on 16/05/2020 17:29:17

Edited By BOB BLACKSHAW on 16/05/2020 17:29:36

I set up my rotary table today and had a practice at indexing seven holes, it came out wrong I made some error, 12 turns with 19 holes or 18 spaces. I had a go at something easier for me, 8 holes,11 turns with 20 spaces which is half of the holes on the plate which came out correct. When indexing is it common practice to rotate the table in neutral, not in gear to the correct amount of degrees then use the indexing plate for what part is needed. I tried this and one turn is 4 deg x7 plus 20 spaces 2 deg equals 30deg, this seems a lot more easier than counting turns on the wheel.Beginners question but I can see a lot of errors when counting turns on the wheel.

Bob

Edited By BOB BLACKSHAW on 16/05/2020 17:27:01

I have learnt so much with these posts and it has stopped me buying a cheap tig welder as I now know that I wouldn't be happy with it. I remember the industrial Tig welders when I was working I never used them but I understood there capabilities and would have found the faults with a cheap one. Another thing a broken band saw blade its been mentioned here that silver soldering could be used, mine has broken on the weld, if it lasts for a few cuts I would be happy with this as it will only be chucked.

I remember when I was about eighteen I mentioned to the foreman that I had done apprentice stick welding which was a basic, I was no welder. They sent me to All Can which made aluminium cans and lead type tubes, when I got there they wanted me to weld these six inch by approximately thirty foot steel bands cut at a angle then arc welding them and fit the band on the rollers ,this was dipped into molten lead or whatever and then cooled in water and a strip of lead came off the belt. This strip was then punched into discs. If the weld lasted an hour before they broke that was accepted, mine at first about 10 mins but I improved and become quite good at it. That has been my only experience of welding to date so I'm looking forward to getting this welder in the near future.

Bob

Thanks all, good points noted.

Bob

Thanks for the replies, hoping that the cheap ones would be ok but nope go for a decent quality as said, will look at the esap and check out R-Tech.

Again thanks, Bob