Member postings for Roy Birch

Hello All

Nick I looked at the link but the smallest size is 300mm, I may call and see if they can do smaller,

DC31k, there is not a problem, I stupidly did not realise until later on that my Grinder may be a later model because it does not have the round motor as the Dunmore does and some of the Boxfords, it has a parvalux motor that is square and a brown spindle casting and green motor colour scheme which may mean it is a lot newer than the round motors, also all of the bolts and threads are metric except the spindle which has been confired on another forum as being 1/4*32tpi, the reason for putting the size is that there may be a difference in spindle centre measures between the round and square motors and of course belt length, I take on board about adjustment but if I order belts from Dunmore and anyone else on here would like me to get them a belt at the same time I at least want to know that the ones ordered are correct.

Tony Griffiths has confirmed that the early round motor grinders were Dunmore and he sells belts made to length for £31.68 for one and the second half price, I dont know if that is plus vat or not but 2 belts are going to be around £50.

Further to this thread does anyone know the spindle thread on this tool, I make it 1/4*32tpi which seems odd, I used a thread gauge which I believe was in whitworth form.

I also contacted Dunmore who sell the belts but again some size differences, Dunmore have replied and told me the belt size for there 14A is 10.625" by 3/8. the belt in mine could of course not be correct but it measures about 11" by 3/8. They sell the belts for $13.68 and I do have a USA address to ship to for forwarding to the UK so if the size is correct from them I am quite happy to order belts for anyone else who may need them.

Thanks Nick, it looks as though the Boxford Little Giant is that same as the Dunmore Tom Thumb no14A Grinder.

Thanks Nick got the manual from your Dropbox account.

Apparently the belts are available at

https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Belts-Flat-Drive-Belts/c4601_8093/index.html

Hello All

I have just purchased a Little Giant toolpost grinder and was wondering which is the correct way to use it, I was told the lathe has to spin in reverse to the rotation of the grinding wheel? also how do I find out what the spindle speed for the lathe should be?

Regards

Roy

I have a single phase one and I do not notice a speed difference with cut and return stroke.

Hello All

I started trying to build 3 1/2 gauge locomotives 20 years ago but without the required knowledge I had the bright idea of buying part built models, however I found that I just could not get on with them, it was in a conversation with the then editor of Model Engineering Mike Crisp that the problem was that I was buying models that I was not really interested in. In fact it was one of these conversations in which he asked me what Loco's interest me as if I was to build one of those I would stand a far better chance of finishing them, I happily said "I quite like Mallard, Flying Scotsman and Duchess Streamlined class" the phone went very quiet to which I put it down thinking I had been cut off. Mike duly called me back to apologise for the silence but he needed to think about my choices. Well other commitments came along and 20 years later the world of 3 1/2 gauge really for clubs turned into 5" and 7 1/4" gauge loco's. An offer of a Taunton Manor in 5" gauge came my way just recently and to be fair it is just the sort of model that appeals to me, it is part built but only the frames are put together with 5 of the 6 axle boxes and all of the side horns in place. All of the castings are there and the frame is square across the horn blocks as well as being to the drawings. Now to the question of building this model out, I would like to do a blow by blow account of the build going forward including errors but I will need a lot of advice and help, I also want this to serve as a starting point for beginners who purchase part built loco's. Can the members on here tell me if it is worth doing something like this documented build with photo's or is it of no interest and would it fail to get traction enough for me to get the right advice to complete this Locomotive? As always please be totally honest.

Kind Regards

Roy

Hello All

Does anyone have the T Slotted table that fits the Boxford Vertical Slide that they no longer use and would be willing to sell, or can anyone take the measures from one so that I could make one.

Kind Regards

Roy

Hello All

Does anyone have Model engineer magazine volumes 121,122,123 that are bound like a book that they no longer need and would be willing to sell?

Kind Regards

Roy

Hello All

I would like to build a loco building Stand, does anyone have issue 4253 that detailed the build.

Kind Regards

Roy

Hello All

The Boxford is up and running now and all is good, I have a question regarding SFM for EN steel, my lathe is a metric lathe so in order to get the correct RPM do I have to do any conversion of SFM to metric?

Kind Regards

Roy

Hello All

Has anyone fitted a dro to the Adcock & Shipley 1es and if so do you have any pictures of where the scales are fitted?

Regards

Roy

Yes you are correct, that is also one of the reasons I feel making a new hub from a block of cast iron.

No that’s not a crack it’s the piece that was broken off which I have just placed on the hub

One more thing to add is that I now believe this casting is at fault because the two pins in photo 5 should have sheared off befor the casting took any damage

Hello All

So here is the pulley out of the machine, the drive gear shows some elongation of the holes for the drive pins so I think this lathe may have been put into back gear with the shaft still turning,

Photo 1 shows the area that is missing from the pulley, this distance is at least 2/3rds of the pulley missing some material.

Photo 2 shows why the lathe had a lot of slippage

Photo 3 seems to indicate that this is made in 2 parts as there is a golden ring around the part that holds the back gear which I assume is silver solder.

Photo 4 shows the deepest part of the damage with very little pulley side left.

Photo 5 shows the piece that I found against the drive belt in place on the pulley block.

This pulley block is different from the normal AUD as this one is solid and the AUD block is machined to have an internal hub which I assume has a lot to do with weight so any other replacement has to be the same as you would machine most all of the internal hub away. I now dont think the repair is feasible unless I drilled a new spindle lock hole in the undamaged area of the pulley and a new button oiler hole which runs into the small keyway in photo 5.

Regards

Roy

So upon further investigation I have found 2/3 of the missing piece, whoever was operating this Boxford at the time left this inside nicely against the drive belt, photo 1 shows the inside, photo 2 shows the outside which also shows that someone was trying to use the spindle lock with the chuck still turning and photo 3 is the reason for the belt slipping as this is the inside wall of the belt pulley, does anyone think this is user error or was the casting suspect in the first place? and does this piece and I am sure I will find the other bits iside the headstock somewhere make a repair more likely?

The main problem is that the VSL500 has a 1 3/8 bore which is nearly twice the size of the standard machines, it may of course be close on external diametre