Member postings for Peter Russell 4

Martin at end of day im trying to produce a loco from your instructions allowing for drawing errors that is supposed to be for beginners. ie consise instructions.

What is presented is far from a beginners artical - im sorry but this is fact.

There is too much left to the imagination and personal judgment and unexplained.

Your answer says drill from both ends for the burner bar ignoring the fact that the left had end that is threaded for the jet is smaller than the right hand end which is larger.

Goo d idea about plumbers solder and pipe legnths but this pre suposes that the final destination of pipes is known - which is not evident.

Sorry to be critical but this is a beginners artical the info is seriously lacking

I should be able to go into my workshop and produce everything needed - I cant

Regards

Pete

Martin

You advise bronze is better for the burner bar.

Would you give some insight into how you did this - I cant find tubing so must assume you drilled it from solid - some 4 inches with a 1mm wall .

If this is what you did I find that bronze heats up quickly when drilling and tends to bind on the drill also as the left side with the jet is drilled smaller how far down is it drilled 0.290 does it include the area where the air holes are.

From previous messages Im fairly confident Ive now sorted out the valves on the gas tank - I only want one because of the Ronson filler Im using- but there appears to be 3 6ba blind bushes 2 for fixing one for the heat shunt the position of which is not specified.

As per your "advise" ive gone back to page one and started making each piece as it is published and am now up to the frames and spacers.

Although im a maintenace engineer (retired) by trade I nearly fell into the trap of wall thickness on the 22mm fire tube - what you get from B&Q is only 0.9mm thick and it should be about 1.2mm can be found in short legnths on Ebay.

Regards

Pete

Martin

What I meant was id made the piston rods using the dimensions as published in the forks which meant I cut them too short.

Ive made new ones but have not fitted the forks yet but they should be ok.

The fork drawings look a lot longer than those in your pictures but that's probably an inherent problem with the dimensions.

Just a couple of things for future - in the Figs for the new valve chest covers the 1/8 pipe length is given - It would be use full to have the same info ( not exact) for the other bits that have pipes soldered on.

Ive also made a change to the steam valve made from 1/4 hex with two 1/8 pipes off it.

As its drawn the 1/8x40 tapping in the body for the spindle is shown as right from the left hand edge . I have counter bored the end 1/8 and adjusted the spindle slightly so that the gland seal or O ring is running on plain spindle and not the thread which will shred the seal.

Your idea for C washers setting the pistons is good - Im cheating and using the ones that came with the other loco im building!

Regards

Pete

Martin

Fig 1 and Fig 2 valve and piston forks - the dimensions dont add up.

I think the shown overall length of 0.30 and 0.318 are not overall lengths they should refer to the length of the square section and not include the turned down bit.

This is what I am going to go with as it very nearly replicates the removed valve fork if I do.

Pitty I made the new piston rods first as they are now too short.

I was calm and carrying on!

Pete

Martin

I am retired in my former life I was a building systems manager responcible for allmaintenance so effectively multi skilled as I covered any thing from security to blocked loos and everything in between that was not management.

I started to build a loco FC Judd I think when I was at school and got more detentions for wagging it off from lessons in the metalwork block.

I left it there when I left school as there was no prospect of ever having the tools and machinery to finish it.

As life went on and I retired I started to build a King G1 kit from a company in Walsall and have almost completed it.

But along the way there have been errors and omissions and ambiguity which have slowed it down.

So I thought I would give Falcor ago- any errors or foul up would be mine! and not need to rely on external sources to help.

Having said all that The main frames are complete, The boiler is started I have just silver soldered the water gauge and top 9/16 block on and they are now in pickle pot.

I have tried to get an answer from Roundhouse about the piston assembly but they have not answered me.

I am aware that if it is just locktite heat will undo it but if its threaded I don't want to damage the pistons.

The gas tank is started as basic bits ready for assembly and silver soldering.

As I find I need tools I order them and materials are ordered following each magazine issue that contains Falcor

Im trying to do as much as I can and if I get stuck pose a question and move on to another bit till I get an answer.

There is a difference between being told something is not critical and the history of this project having drawing office errors - how are we to differentiate?

Take the front frames that carry the cylinders as it is drawn in the magazine it is impossible to mark out and make without that dimension on the left side or a comment that it is not critical added to which the measurement "error" I queried adds to the confusion - this is not mean to be critical but im not into guess work and having to re make a part because I got it wrong.

I hope you can see where Im coming from.

Others have said they wont build it because of the errors Im not alone but having spent a lot of money in materials Im not giving in.

My workshop is 6ft x 6ft metal shed with a Mill just installed instead of a pillar drill and a mini lathe vice, brazing hearth. and spray hood.

Im capable of very fine work and have recently built a pendulum clock.

Hope this helps understand me and my aims

Regards

Pete

Martin

Sorry - further confusion of the main frame and front frame measurments. Fig26/27

The main frame is 8.5 long - the right hand 3 holes two of which are spotted through are 8.5-7.48 -.155 = 0.865 apart horizontally.

In fig 27 those 3 holes are shown as 0.840 apart.

Regards

Pete

Edited By Peter Russell 4 on 22/08/2018 10:57:56

Martin

Sorry its me again - am I the only one building this?

Fig 27 Front Frames

What height should the frame be on the left hand end?

Pete

Martin

Hi - any advise on getting the pistons off the existing rods.

Are they screwed, locktited or both

Pete

Martin

Im confused by the gas tank fig 21 has 6ba bushes at bottom and 1/4x40 bushes at top and one in the side.

Then fig 22 shows two alternatives for filler valve bushes is this a replacment for one of the top 1/4x40 bushes?

If it is and you do it this way the fill valve in fig 24 becomes redundant? as then will the vent valve in fig 25 because the venting is done through the gas filler?

In pic 16 there is a bush with nothing screwed in it that is not on any of the other drawings?

Presumably the distance between the two 6ba bushes in the gas tank bottom are non critical ive got about 0.75

From pic16 it looks as if the relationship between a line through the gas tank top and bottom bushes is about 90 deg but what is the relationship to the 1/4x40 bush in the side.

I dont want to end up with a bush against the side of the cab when it should be pointing inwards.

Regards

Pete

Martin

On the boiler does the top bronze block overhang by 0.02 as the lower water gauge one does.

The top bronze block looks shorter than the lower one and no legnth or width is given or is it a 9/16 cube.

Pete

Martin - yes i did mean fig13 got description wrong - your measurments help thank you but the S.s. with an arrow pointing at the end is confusing . It already says silver solder two 1/8 pipes but if the body is made from the solid theres nothing to S.s. at that end

Figures in issue 5493 stop at 51 so T should be in part 8.

Regards

Pete

Martin - sorry just another little query - how far up from the bottom of the boiler is the lower water gauge mount.

It looks about 1/3 the way up the 22 mm fire tube and therefore is this the same for the water filling bush?

Regards

Pete

Martin

When you modified the Roundhouse cylinders how did you deal with the existing 1/8 copper pipes silver soldered into the sides of the valve chest? - Drill out tap 4ba and plug with a brass screw?

Also is the T piece in picture 4 and the associated pipe in another issue.

Pete

Martin

Gremlins again?

Im lucky enough to have my August issue already - Fig 50 Lubricator cap there no legnth for the lubricator cap extension soft soldered in

Also fig 11m4th image on right theres no diameter given for the blower angle feed body and a ref to S.s. and no internal dimensions for 1/8 x 40 thread and drill through beyond

Regards

Pete.

Martin

Fig 22 refers to a thread 4.5 x 0.5 which I presume is metric - is this correct as I can only find taps and dies for 4 mm x 0.5

Fig 45 shows a 0.250 diameter hole of set with a 0.125 pipe in it - is this right?

Regards

Pete

John

My thoughts exactly!

Martin is helping us enjoy our hobby and all the errors which are not his fault are leaving a bad taste.

It would be so nice to have a project that was right in all aspects and you could lock yourself in the shed and come out feeling satisfied instead of having to stop and ask a question or guess and hope its right.

I hear all that is said about the magazine production limitations in previous posts but this is basic drawing errors.

My Rant over

Martin - Gremlins again?

Fig 26 Main Frames on the top edge there is a hole 5.1 from left hand side which i assume is 0.108 dia and 0.125 down from the top edge of the frame like the next one at 7.480

Regards

Pete

Martin picture 34 on the left hand end - the one that goes on the boiler tube looks like its counter bored or theres a piece of 2 in tube behind the smoke box front ring that makes it look like that.- hope this helps see what im trying to say.

In Fig 26 Main frames theres no dimensions for the radiused bottom left hand corner - the right hand one is also not dimensioned but there is sufficient surrounding dimensions to be able to work it out.

Back to fig 43 theres no dimensions for the brass sheet soft soldered underneath either for the plate size or holes.

Also there are no measurments for the position of the square upright and 3 holes are shown but only 2 on the saddle part below.

There are no measurments for the 7 ba clear holes or the positions of the 0.3 and 0.4 cut outs which don't look in the middle when viewing picture 36

Hope this expends on my comment fig 34 does not add up

How do you latch the smoke box door shut?

Regards

Pete

HAs anyone fitted a DRO to a Warco WM12 mill.?

Im looking for a supplier of lost wax brass castings of a loco smoke box door to fit a 1.5 in diameter hole